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10.47 @ 132mph on 25psi! Auto

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kp116

10+ Year Contributor
620
3
Mar 25, 2009
Janesville, Wisconsin
Ended up heading back to the track last sunday with a few things changed on the car. Me and matt(Mr. Peepers) were testing out the clutch cut for NLTS wired up to the brake switch so that when I am getting up on the stall you can retard timing to help it hold on the brakes and also so that your not making a bunch of torque sitting at the line. Needless to say it works awesome! My first full pass was on wastegate pressure (25psi) until about the 1000' and then I turned it up to 30psi. It went 10.47 @ 132mph with a 1.48 60'! My next pass I turned up the boost a little bit more. It fell on its face off the line for some reason which killed my 60' and got a 1.64. For some reason the clocks were messed up and I was only able to get a 1/8 e.t. and mph which was 6.60 @ 110mph. The previous run of 10.47 was only 6.7 @ 104mph in the 1/8 so even with worse 60' it still went quicker in the 1/8 than the previous run of 10.47. I think with another 1.4X 60' and dialing it in on a little more boost and leaning it out because it is still probably on the rich side I should be able to click off a 9 second pass I am hoping!

This was the only pass I got a video of and it was the last run which only gave me a 1/8 time.

YouTube - ‪Auto awd s366 talon‬‏
 
Ended up heading back to the track last sunday with a few things changed on the car. Me and matt(Mr. Peepers) were testing out the clutch cut for NLTS wired up to the brake switch so that when I am getting up on the stall you can retard timing to help it hold on the brakes and also so that your not making a bunch of torque sitting at the line. Needless to say it works awesome! My first full pass was on wastegate pressure (25psi) until about the 1000' and then I turned it up to 30psi. It went 10.47 @ 132mph with a 1.48 60'! My next pass I turned up the boost a little bit more. It fell on its face off the line for some reason which killed my 60' and got a 1.64. For some reason the clocks were messed up and I was only able to get a 1/8 e.t. and mph which was 6.60 @ 110mph. The previous run of 10.47 was only 6.7 @ 104mph in the 1/8 so even with worse 60' it still went quicker in the 1/8 than the previous run of 10.47. I think with another 1.4X 60' and dialing it in on a little more boost and leaning it out because it is still probably on the rich side I should be able to click off a 9 second pass I am hoping!

Very nicely done! I've been looking into doing the same thing with my NLTS. So are you manually retarding the timing where the car runs while on the stall? Or is it a feature link has built into it that activates when you hit the NLTS rpm? I run Jackal but I've been thinking about trying something similar because the mph based 2 step screws up my launches sometimes.
 
Very nicely done! I've been looking into doing the same thing with my NLTS. So are you manually retarding the timing where the car runs while on the stall? Or is it a feature link has built into it that activates when you hit the NLTS rpm? I run Jackal but I've been thinking about trying something similar because the mph based 2 step screws up my launches sometimes.

It is controlled through dsmlink. The brake pedal has to be pressed and TPS has to be over 90% for it to activate it for the parameters I have. I have a dynatek arc-2 on the car and I am going to be wiring the 2-step for that to the brake swtich as well I am thinking so the same idea apply's. Press the brake pedal to activate it and it will shut off when letting off the brake. I was actually having problem making too much boost on the line. It would ramp up to 25+psi just over 4krpm.... I couldn't change the 2 step because the lap top died so I was just trying to leave via boost.

Very nice, what does your cay weigh?

I have been meaning to weigh it and see what it is after the auto swap. My guess is probably around 3150 or so with me in it so not exactly the lightest car either.
 
It is controlled through dsmlink. The brake pedal has to be pressed and TPS has to be over 90% for it to activate it for the parameters I have. I have a dynatek arc-2 on the car and I am going to be wiring the 2-step for that to the brake swtich as well I am thinking so the same idea apply's. Press the brake pedal to activate it and it will shut off when letting off the brake. I was actually having problem making too much boost on the line. It would ramp up to 25+psi just over 4krpm.... I couldn't change the 2 step because the lap top died so I was just trying to leave via boost.

Oh ok thanks. So is it the anit-lag that activates?

Same here on too much boost. I can hit damn near 30psi launching at 4000rpm and I'm worried about breaking the trans holding all that back with the brakes. Sounds like a good idea using the dynatek, it's probably better anyway as it's spark cut.
 
Great times. I like the NLTS idea for retarding timing. I might have to try that this year. Am having the same issue holding it on the line under boost.

Good luck with the rest of the season! :hellyeah:
 
Oh ok thanks. So is it the anit-lag that activates?

Same here on too much boost. I can hit damn near 30psi launching at 4000rpm and I'm worried about breaking the trans holding all that back with the brakes. Sounds like a good idea using the dynatek, it's probably better anyway as it's spark cut.

Yep antilag. Thats what really nice about retarding the timing so that you can still build a lot of boost but your not making a bunch of torque and putting all that stress on the drivetrain.
 
Yep antilag. Thats what really nice about retarding the timing so that you can still build a lot of boost but your not making a bunch of torque and putting all that stress on the drivetrain.

Hmm, you're very right. I think I may have found my first real limitation using Jackal with no option for anitilag. I may try to see if I can find a way around it the next time I head out to the track. I may try to retard the timing map where I'm sitting on the converter and maybe have the fps control spray it as soon as the vss reads over 2mph.

Or maybe I'll have to keep an eye out for a good deal on an ecmlink setup. Which is money I don't want to spend... :|
 
I have been playing around with the idea of having a switch wired to the base timing relay thing. That way I can hold the timing at 5* while torquing, then flip the switch and let the brakes go on the green.

Not entirely sure it will work tho..
 
Hmm, you're very right. I think I may have found my first real limitation using Jackal with no option for anitilag. I may try to see if I can find a way around it the next time I head out to the track. I may try to retard the timing map where I'm sitting on the converter and maybe have the fps control spray it as soon as the vss reads over 2mph.

Or maybe I'll have to keep an eye out for a good deal on an ecmlink setup. Which is money I don't want to spend... :|

Another option may be you could use a CDI box like the dynatak for retarding timing. I think the dynatek arc-2 can retard timing 10*.
 
I'm building my car to run in true street class with a simular turbo. Do you think there is anyway to have you turbo spool without nitrous on your motor?

To stall up? I don't think so. Maybe if it was a 2.3 and a looser converter. It will only stall to 3krpm and build about 5psi just on motor and thats after sitting there for about 10 seconds.
 
Hmm, you're very right. I think I may have found my first real limitation using Jackal with no option for anitilag. I may try to see if I can find a way around it the next time I head out to the track. I may try to retard the timing map where I'm sitting on the converter and maybe have the fps control spray it as soon as the vss reads over 2mph.

Or maybe I'll have to keep an eye out for a good deal on an ecmlink setup. Which is money I don't want to spend... :|

Theres always a work around!

Plumb a vacuum solenoid into the WG actuator and attach it to the brake switch (NO) and a boost switch(NO). Have the solenoid normally closed. As you press the brake and boost reaches your desired launch PSI the solenoid will open allowing boost to travel to the WG around the boost controller. This will cause WG to open and boost to drop. When drops below your desired launch PSI the switch will close allowing boost to rise again. Your boost will jump up and down a bit, but should be limited to the amount set on your boost switch.

As you let off the brake the solenoid will close and boost will jump back up. Simple launch control with cheap parts. ;)


Just a though... I'm a stubborn jakal user too! :D
 
I'll look into the dynatak components, thanks.

Theres always a work around!

Plumb a vacuum solenoid into the WG actuator and attach it to the brake switch (NO) and a boost switch(NO). Have the solenoid normally closed. As you press the brake and boost reaches your desired launch PSI the solenoid will open allowing boost to travel to the WG around the boost controller. This will cause WG to open and boost to drop. When drops below your desired launch PSI the switch will close allowing boost to rise again. Your boost will jump up and down a bit, but should be limited to the amount set on your boost switch.

As you let off the brake the solenoid will close and boost will jump back up. Simple launch control with cheap parts. ;)


Just a though... I'm a stubborn jakal user too! :D

It's funny you mention that, because I've been contemplating something similar. I was thinking of using dual stage manual boost controller with a momentary switch hooked to the brake pedal. Have the solenoid switch over to the low boost controller when the brake is pressed. Sorry for the tangent kp116, back to the original topic.
 
I have been playing around with the idea of having a switch wired to the base timing relay thing. That way I can hold the timing at 5* while torquing, then flip the switch and let the brakes go on the green.

Not entirely sure it will work tho..

I have mine set-up on a button.The timing is set @5* and 4600rpm on the 2step when the button is pressed.When I release the button timing goes back to the the regular map:thumb: It actually works REALLY GOOD:D I would suggest giving a try.......

BTW If you take too much timing "anti-lag" to reduce the torque on the brakes.The car will bog off the line...There is a fine line between the two.I found that 5* is a nice sweet spot.

Hmm, you're very right. I think I may have found my first real limitation using Jackal with no option for anitilag. I may try to see if I can find a way around it the next time I head out to the track. I may try to retard the timing map where I'm sitting on the converter and maybe have the fps control spray it as soon as the vss reads over 2mph.

Or maybe I'll have to keep an eye out for a good deal on an ecmlink setup. Which is money I don't want to spend... :|


I'm running Jackal.....it's all good bro! Save your money;) PM me for details:sneaky:
 
I have mine set-up on a button.The timing is set @5* and 4600rpm on the 2step when the button is pressed.When I release the button timing goes back to the the regular map:thumb: It actually works REALLY GOOD:D I would suggest giving a try.......

BTW If you take too much timing "anti-lag" to reduce the torque on the brakes.The car will bog off the line...There is a fine line between the two.I found that 5* is a nice sweet spot.




I'm running Jackal.....it's all good bro! Save your money;) PM me for details:sneaky:

Oh yeah! Don't know why I didn't think of that.. I see exactly what you're saying, I think I'm going to give this a try this weekend. :thumb:
 
Wow, thats alot better idea than bouncing the flapper all around. :thumb:


Congrats kp116! Those are some killer times. :hellyeah:
 
Haha I saw the thread and didn't realize it was yours at first. I still said "oh damn that's awesome" in my head.

Can't wait to hit the track again. Bring you laptop charger this time :)
 
I have mine set-up on a button.The timing is set @5* and 4600rpm on the 2step when the button is pressed.When I release the button timing goes back to the the regular map:thumb: It actually works REALLY GOOD:D I would suggest giving a try.......

BTW If you take too much timing "anti-lag" to reduce the torque on the brakes.The car will bog off the line...There is a fine line between the two.I found that 5* is a nice sweet spot.




I'm running Jackal.....it's all good bro! Save your money;) PM me for details:sneaky:

Are you grounding the timing? If it's going to derail the thread too much PM me, I'm also on Jackal.
 
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