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1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

Soon to be the new Talon

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So I have a bit of a dilemma. I have the front subframe removed from the car right now. I also have an Energy Suspension Front Subframe Poly Bushing Kit

Should I replace the bushings with the poly ones? I do want to try and preserve the drivability of the car, I don't want it to become super harsh. So I'm debating between leaving the OEM rubber bushings in vs installing the poly bushings. Will it make a big difference on the subframe?

The bushings on the subframe are the OEM rubber ones and they look "fine" to my eye? They aren't torn or cracked. But I really don't know how old they are or how much play is supposed to be normal for them.

Here's a pic as an example they all look mostly like this

1785980640530.png
 
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So I have a bit of a dilemma. I have the front subframe removed from the car right now. I also have an Energy Suspension Front Subframe Poly Bushing Kit

Should I replace the bushings with the poly ones? I do want to try and preserve the drivability of the car, I don't want it to become super harsh. So I'm debating between leaving the OEM rubber bushings in vs installing the poly bushings. Will it make a big difference on the subframe?

The bushings on the subframe are the OEM rubber ones and they look "fine" to my eye? They aren't torn or cracked. But I really don't know how old they are or how much play is supposed to be normal for them.

Here's a pic as an example they all look mostly like this

View attachment 796968
Its subjective but I did poly subframe back in the 90s. I didnt think it was harsh.
 
I had the fortunate experiemce of DSMs from relatively new (30k). Bushings made the car what it should have been from new. Great tires and suspension took the car beyond my capability on the street. Just simple quality parts made for a great street car. I never wanted a race car. I still dont.
 
Okay, subframe is sorted! And I've got all the front end stuff back together. Looking shiny under there now :D

1787198759917.png



So, my attention is turned back to the engine now. We got the timing done, it took a lot of trepidation and cross referencing half a dozen different service manuals and guides to figure out the right way to tension it and time it. But I think we've nailed it, so new tensioner, new water pump and an OEM timing belt and balance belt. All that is sorted out now. :thumb:

Now I need to get all the plumbing on this thing figured out. We test fitted the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, turbo, downpipe etc. to just see how everything is going to fit up. It's looking pretty good so far!

1787198960912.png


1787198996572.png


So now I'm trying to figure out this bit - I need the oil filter housing's coolant lines and the turbo's coolant and oil lines hooked up. But a lot of this is gonna be awfully close to the turbo / exhaust manifold / downpipe, so I'm trying to think about temperature and make sure I don't have an issue there. I cannot afford to have a hose melt on me, if I blow up my engine or my turbo it'll be game over.

1787199432235.png


My understanding so far from all the research I've done is that the coolant lines in green need to be... SAE 20R3 rated heater hose, because that's rated to handle coolant? Meanwhile, the turbo drain line is differnt it's handling hot oil not coolant so.... you DON"T want heater hose there. I have AN fittings for the turbo and oil pan that I got from RTMRacing last year before they closed so I was thinking maybe I'd do a short run of 10AN PTFE fuel line for this

The heater hose is rated for 257F but I have no idea how much heat the turbo is going to produce, will that be enough? Evil Energy has silicone 3/8 heater hose that they claim is 20R3 rated and allegedly good up to 356F so I'm considering going with that..
 
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