OEM+ DSM Development Poll Time

Since day one, FIBA Motorsport has been about one thing above all else… keeping the DSM chassis alive, improving it, and making sure these cars stay on the road, track, and strip for many more years to come.

What started from pure passion back in the early DSM forum days grew into engineering solutions for parts that are discontinued, failing with age, or simply no longer good enough for modern use. Everything we develop comes from real-world experience, years of fabrication and engineering work, and genuinely caring about the future of these chassis.

We know we can’t cover EVERY part overnight — but we focus heavily on the VITAL components that keep your engine and chassis moving reliably. OEM+ with purpose has always been the goal.

So now we want YOUR input from the community

Which product should FIBA Motorsport focus on releasing NEXT?

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OPTION 1 — FIBA Motorsport OEM+ Timing Tensioner Arms (1G & 2G)

Designed to solve common OEM issues while modernising the design for long-term reliability.

Key features:
• Stronger upgraded material to prevent hydraulic pin marking/deformation
• Replaceable pivot bushes available separately
• Revised lighterweight modern design
• OEM+ replacement for discontinued a part
• Helps reduce timing belt play and belt walking

Available for:
1G DSM 6 Bolt
2G DSM & bolt
Potential dual release depending on demand

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OPTION 2 — FIBA Motorsport OEM+ U-Joints

Fits:
1G DSM
2G DSM
Galant VR4
Possibly more chassis

Key features:
• Stronger base material than OEM
• Needle-bearing design for proper road & race usability
• SOLID bore design for added strength
• Replaceable dual-lip trunnion seals
• Revised stronger joint body for harder use
• Not relying on discontinued OEM supply that will be hard to source or hollow versions that are weaker.

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Every single product we release is built to OUR standards first — quality, function, reliability, and longevity.

This chassis has given us all so much over the years, and we genuinely want to keep pushing forward with parts that matter and help keep these cars alive for the next generation.

So tell us below or in the poll.

Tensioner Arms
U-Joints
BOTH

Because We want to keep these engines and chassis working strongly for many more years to come!

We genuinely want to hear what the community wants next

6 bolt timing cover, clips and fasterners like the one we discussed. I have a lot of pieces in mind im working on a list of stuff .

92AWDHX40 said:

6 bolt timing cover, clips and fasterners like the one we discussed. I have a lot of pieces in mind im working on a list of stuff .

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Covers are being done by many so just let them crack on with that.

Clips are something but need HUGE backing to pass. 100 or so to be exact due to moulding costs.

Yeah i remember discussing that with you , well i think what you have so far is great ill look at my dsm like every day and think of stuff.

Oh a far cry but how about 92 lights corners

92AWDHX40 said:

Oh a far cry but how about 92 lights corners

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That is a whole nother investment level. Already pushing the boundries on the next level parts currently but who knows. We do aim to do more DSM parts over the years so if we progress more then more DSM parts can be progressed upon

Let's go on the U-Joints!!! Big help long term would be weld in replacement panels for the common rusted out areas. strut towers, rockers, etc. Keep up the solid work! Would also love another chance at a 2g front subframe brace

1g dsm drip moldings, window trimming, sunroof molding, and weather seals for the sunroof, doors and hatch.

Everyone restoring or keeping these alive would kill for oem replacements, or even an upgraded version of them.

trogador2005 said:

Let's go on the U-Joints!!! Big help long term would be weld in replacement panels for the common rusted out areas. strut towers, rockers, etc. Keep up the solid work! Would also love another chance at a 2g front subframe brace

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I have asked for this before but tooling cost for this would be insane if I remember correctly. If I ever win it big I am going to be doing this .

trogador2005 said:

Let's go on the U-Joints!!! Big help long term would be weld in replacement panels for the common rusted out areas. strut towers, rockers, etc. Keep up the solid work! Would also love another chance at a 2g front subframe brace

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Press tools for body panels is likely something not as easily possible due to the upstart costs. Not right now but long term as FIBA grows and gets more customers and can have a bigger R&D budget, then this most certainly could be something attempted!

Wanted01 said:

1g dsm drip moldings, window trimming, sunroof molding, and weather seals for the sunroof, doors and hatch.

Everyone restoring or keeping these alive would kill for oem replacements, or even an upgraded version of them.

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1G drip rails are plastic So not like the 2G units but most of those can be rebought from a spare chassis, as, unless cracked, they can last a long time.
other seals we would love to tackle but not quite big enough currently to take on such tasks

AWD gas tanks Bobby…

FIBA M - EC17PSE said:

1G drip rails are plastic

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with a rigid steel frame.

It's the outer plastic coating that ages/cracks/falls off. If that could be replaced we'd be in business.

peon_slayer said:

I have asked for this before but tooling cost for this would be insane if I remember correctly. If I ever win it big I am going to be doing this

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DreamChaser7 said:

AWD gas tanks Bobby…

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some one else wants tanks. not impossible but MAN it is a big thing haha

dwb said:

with a rigid steel frame.

It's the outer plastic coating that ages/cracks/falls off. If that could be replaced we'd be in business.

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No they are full plastic without anything under it. I pulled my 1G units off and they are 100% plastic. no coating or metal in there. I never get why the 1G is requested as I do not see or never see a coating to reproduce. if you got pics send them or post them up, interested to see if I am missing something

Maybe we're talking about something different.

dwb said:

Maybe we're talking about something different.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

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OK THAT is new to me! I tool my Talon ones off, and those are all plastic! This is very odd and news to me . what year is this? maybe they changed it as mines a 92.

FIBA M - EC17PSE said:

OK THAT is new to me! I tool my Talon ones off, and those are all plastic! This is very odd and news to me . what year is this? maybe they changed it as mines a 92.

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91 - same car in my signature.
I found some good used ones that need to be installed, but I'm considering preserving them as long as I have to park outside.

dwb said:

Same as my profile

91 - same car in my signature.
I found some good used ones that need to be installed, but I'm considering preserving them as long as I have to park outside.

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So I need to check this out as my friend's 91 1GA also had plastic drip rails so unsure on the metal ones. this is actually news to me haha

FIBA M - EC17PSE said:

So I need to check this out as my friend's 91 1GA also had plastic drip rails so unsure on the metal ones. this is actually news to me haha

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I have had 25+ 1Gs alone and most of them being 90-91s all were letal like the above posted. And most of them had that coating peeling revealing the gross chrome metal underneath.

peon_slayer said:

I have had 25+ 1Gs alone and most of them being 90-91s all were letal like the above posted. And most of them had that coating peeling revealing the gross chrome metal underneath.

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Ok so this is a new one I will look into. since I went off my friends 1GA (plastic) and MY 1GB plastic I took it as they all were the same as why would my friends 92 be plastic then? unless it was a Talon vs Eclipse thing?

certainly something to now look into more

FIBA M - EC17PSE said:

Ok so this is a new one I will look into. since I went off my friends 1GA (plastic) and MY 1GB plastic I took it as they all were the same as why would my friends 92 be plastic then? unless it was a Talon vs Eclipse thing?

certainly something to now look into more

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Yea not sure but they are definitely metal and can dent if you have to break into the car cause you locked your keys in there .

@FIBA M - EC17PSE no sir, all 1gs are metal with plastic coating. My 1gb talon. I'd honestly prefer them to be a plastic or a composite vs metal, as it would be less prone to dent, have more give and wouldn't flake. But that's me.

Parts that have to do with 1g in a 2g swaps so we dont have to hack shit up or try ro fab something
1. Timing cover.
2. Flywheel inspection cover

Outside of that specialty case:
1. A properly fitting upper timing/cam gear cover because ive tried 2 so far that dont fit right even tho it said it was for a 6 bolt.
2. Powersteering/alternator drip shield
3. A proper air duct to direct air up towards the radiator for those with front mounts blocking it
4. The driver and passenger bumper/wheel well liners. Not sure what they are really called..It protects the side mount intercooler? Mine have been chewed up and falling apart for years
5. The simple, flat, bottom piece that helps support the bumper so it doesnt flex so much
6. A trunk floor. Might be a pain for shippibg because of the size. My friend built me one out of wood. Would be nice to have some stopper on it to hold a 1.5 quick jack in place so it doesnt slide around.

peon_slayer said:

Yea not sure but they are definitely metal and can dent if you have to break into the car cause you locked your keys in there .

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I guess from the comment that you have done that before then. Arh man that sucks. I did the 2G once but managed to get in on the side of the glass and seal just about.

Ok well i will need to find a metal set and when they were metal vs plastic as knowledge. Then I could look into a molding like the 2G ones we do

Wanted01 said:

@FIBA M - EC17PSE no sir, all 1gs are metal with plastic coating. My 1gb talon. I'd honestly prefer them to be a plastic or a composite vs metal, as it would be less prone to dent, have more give and wouldn't flake. But that's me.

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When I took my 1GB Talon ones off for the windscreen that was plastic. I was very careful with it as I did not want to snap them. They did not feel metal to me or have a coating on them. When I tap them they sound plastic also

1g OEM mud flaps

How's about replacement 1g door handle trims? Seems like once those little plastic rivets break there's no fixing them. Mines stuck on with 3m double sided tape with adhesive promoter.

And maybe the power mirror clips? In believe they're the clips that hold the mirrors into the mirror caps or something along those lines?