would it be best to order a block and start over?

[LuLusTurboTalon]

Ok so I know there is other forums on bad compressions and what not but none was hitting the nail on the head for me. I just put in a 16G turbo from turbokits.com, got the new dump pipe and all. Well the guy said it would do fine with my stock motor and no needs for upgrading motor. Well we got it on and from around 0-7 lbs of boost it literally would fly and sounds awesome. Well after that it just chokes bad, wouldn't run hardly at all past 7lbs of boost. So we done a compression test and low and behold my numbers SUCKED!!! The numbers were 145-40-70-65. Yea I know they suck and that explains why I am gettin tons of blow by. So what I am really getting at is, would it be better/cheaper to re-build all that is messed up with my motor that only has 86,000 on it (not bad at all for 92 model) or would it be best to order a block and start over? I know you can get regular blocks but I really like the stroker motors. Then again I have reserched them and are still learning difference between stroker motor and regular motor. So if anyone knows where a good new block is that they would reccomend please let me know!

 

[r1991_4g63t]

if you have a early 92 with a 6 bolt i'd rebuild that, otherwise find a 6 bolt

 

[dropt4]

You do not have to upgrade the motor to run the 16g like he said, you just have to have the supporting mods to run it right.. You probably ran the car too lean and messed something internally up.. Were you monitoring your AFR's?

 

[LuLusTurboTalon]

No I had ordered AFR gauge and had not been able to put it in car yet. Just took it out my road, not running hard at all and just wasn't running right and thats when we done compression test. I have been reserching and saw the cyclone motors. How do they run verses just a 2.0 that is not "cyclone" and where can you find a good cyclone motor at?

 

[r1991_4g63t]

our cars dont have the required electronics and other needed parts to operate the cyclone

 

[98GSXtreme07]

The "cyclone motor" is really just something to deal with the intake manifold. I say rebuild the 6-bolt you have, if it is indeed a 6-bolt, or get yourself a 6-bolt and build that one. Its a little bit more money but if this is your DD than you at least have it to drive while building your other engine.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Possibly check into the compression with the wet test, or maybe a leakdown test as well as the compression test as you may have head issues. Might save you some money. I would hate for someone to rebuild and find out the head was the issue.

 

[DSM1G90]

The last three readings could mean a blown head gasket with gasses passing inbetween the cylinders.

Look under by the oil pan and if the front of the pan has a "V" indententation on it, it's a 7bolt, but if the front of the pan is smooth, you got a 6 bolt since in the mid 92 production year is when the motor was switched.

Also, look at the sticker on the "C" pillar of the driver's door. At the upper right is the month and year of manufacture. If it's before June of 1992, a good chance you got a 6 bolt under the hood.

 

[Defiant]

Yank that motor, tear it down and see where you are. Go from there. Until then, you're Bench Rebuilding.