Window Rolls Down. Not Up.

[TonyDeKilla]

Took it to a shop to replace motor/regulator. It's not either of those. They past their tests. The switches work. They cant diagnose the issue. Any ideas?

 

[NHerron]

Try jumping the switches to see. It's very easy to pull apart the switch assembly and follow the copper paths. Once you see which pins get connected upon depressing the button, literally jump those two pins with a piece of wire and see. Each switch should always have one wire 'waiting' with +12V. The other wire would be -12V (ground). This would indicate that all the wiring from that side of the switch - motor - ground, is in working order. Let me know if that makes sense. But basically a motor is just a coil of wire with almost no resistance under a current flows through it.

 

[Paintballaa5]

Funny, Im having the exact same problem right now.. Windows go down just fine, but wont go up.

Lets work together here..

Which wire reverses polarity to make it go up instead of down?

EDIT: Answered my own question..

When key is On:
The driver's Up button puts +12v on the windows green-red wire while the green-black wire is connected to ground.
The driver's Down button puts +12v on the windows green-black wire while the green-red wire is connected to ground.

This might help.

 

[TonyDeKilla]

paintballaa5 you are correct. this is how I got my window up. I took the door panel off and pulled the plastic cover off the connectors and reversed the wiring (plug I am referring to is the above picture).
DSM1G90 and MHerron thanks for the responses. I understand what your saying MHerron and will try that once I get a chance. It's now rainy season and will not be having the top down so I am content with the window being inoperable in the UP position haha. Do any of you have or know where I could get the wiring diagram for the switches? the Chilton book Orielly's has says its for 99-05 with a picture of a 3G on the cover. Not sure I want to trust them ha. thanks again for the responses guys.

 

[Paintballaa5]

paintballaa5 you are correct. this is how I got my window up. I took the door panel off and pulled the plastic cover off the connectors and reversed the wiring (plug I am referring to is the above picture).
DSM1G90 and MHerron thanks for the responses. I understand what your saying MHerron and will try that once I get a chance. It's now rainy season and will not be having the top down so I am content with the window being inoperable in the UP position haha. Do any of you have or know where I could get the wiring diagram for the switches? the Chilton book Orielly's has says its for 99-05 with a picture of a 3G on the cover. Not sure I want to trust them ha. thanks again for the responses guys.

Haha, I have that same book, and am skeptical of it too.

Did you ever figure anything out? I cut into the harness and followed the green/red wire from the switch and it connects to another green/red wire coming from somewhere inside the car. This and a green/black go to the motor.

I know how it's supposed to reverse polarity and all, so if these wires look good than it HAS to be the switch correct?

 

[TonyDeKilla]

I'm thinking the same thing. either that or it has to be a wireharness issue itself. Someone suggested to me to pull apart the switch and spray WD40 on the contacts because it eats any corrosion and wont harm the contacts. I should be pulling the switch apart today and will let you know if anything else works. Also, I know pencil erasers work good for cleaning copper I will most likely try this as well.

 

[miguelmcv]

This thing got me a little confused.

Firs of all, which switch are you guys testing, the driver side or the passenger side.

The driver side switch lines are attached to the passenger side, Before anything test the window motor, add positive on one side and negative on the other side, the motor will pull up or down, which ever side you are doing, then swap the lines, and see what happens, if the motor goes in the other direction, then you know for sure that the motors are good, once you know the motor is good then go to the next step.

Test the lines that goes to the motor to see if there is current on both lines while pressing the switch, press the switch on one direction and test both lines, then press the switch on the other direction and test the lines again, you should get current on both lines while doing this, if there is no current when pressing the switch on one direction but there current while pressing the other direction, then it means the switch is not good.

Check that out and tell us what you found and we can go from there.

 

[TonyDeKilla]

I've already replaced the window motor and regulator. and have switch the currents back and forth (thats how I got the window up when it first stopped working). I've switched out the driver switch with another switch and it acts exactly the same. No response AT ALL for the passenger window. everything else works. passenger switch only rolls down. In order to get it up I have to feed it opposite power.

I just finished taking apart my passenger switch. the connections were pretty dirty but cleaning them and putting it back together did not change anything.

If you'd like to pull your switch apart to see if it will for you here are some pictures for an idea:

there's 2 snaps that hold it down. heres one

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here is the other

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I used my test light because its very pointy and the closest thing I had without getting up.
if the pieces inside fly out (mine did) don't worry they are easly put back in.
they look like this:

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