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Will not go into gear with engine on.. now it will. But..

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RLSchwabe

Proven Member
126
30
Mar 21, 2014
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Cliffnotes:
Symptoms from last night: Won't go into any gear with car on. Goes fine into every gear with car off.

Later last night: Will go into gear, but finding the sweet spot is hard. And when the car warms up it won't go into gear.

Today after extending the clutch pedal rod: Goes into every gear just fine with car ON or OFF.


Story:

Last night I was driving down the highway during my lunch break and I "missed" a downshift, going from 4th to 3rd. It ground a bit, I didn't force it into gear. I just pushed the clutch back in and it shifted smooth. About a mile down the road I hit the offramp. I pull it out of gear and I'm sitting in neutral, light turns green.. it won't go into gear. Finally I force it into second gear and drive back to work and left it in second gear the whole time. Turn it off, go into work for a few hours and do some research online about the issue.

I come out of work and it shifts into gears... but as it warms up it stops shifting into gears. Long story short, I keep it in 2nd the whole way home. Last night I extend the clutch pedal's rod so that it goes further.

TODAY: I start the car, pull it out. It shifts into all gears. Over the course of 20 minutes, it shifts fine into ALL gears, BUT... the clutch gains more and more pressure. And the engagement point ( when releasing the clutch ) comes FURTHER and FURTHER up. And then on the last mile or two before work.. releasing the clutch completely.. the gears slip.

Example: From a stop. The clutch is pressed to the floor. I switch from neutral into first, I press the gas and release the clutch completely. I'm rolling, but I still feel the clutch almost slipping, as if I'm "riding" the clutch. The same happens from 1st to 2nd.

I checked by the clutch pedal assembly, I don't see any fluid leaking from the boot. So I adjusted the rod itself and extended it. I checked the slave cylinder using a video camera and depressing the clutch does activate the slave cylinder. Not sure what my next steps are short of pulling the transmission and assuming it's a clutch job. Thanks for your time and consideration guys.
 
could it be air in the line? it happened after your warmed up i had a similar issue, consider using a mity vac pump (from brakes) to bleed out your system, doesn't sound like its inside the tranny, its worth exhausting all options prior to dropping the trans.
 
How long have u had the car? Have u done a clutch job before? I would say try to bleed the clutch line, adding some new fluid. Try to do all the easy options first, making dropping the trans a last resort.
 
Whats happened is you have the master cylinder rod extended too far. There is a relief valve in the master cylinder that allows fluid to drain back into the master cylinder after you release the clutch. You're experiencing pump up, fluid goes into the slave cylinder and can't leave. Eventually the slave keeps extending as if you're using the clutch.
 
I really don't know. What are the circumstances where air could get into the system?

Could it happen over time out of the blue?

Could opening the filler nut on the transmission to check the the gear oil allow air into the sealed system?

I've had the car for about 8 months now, I've never made adjustments to the clutch system***** ( Before last night! EDIT! SORRY! ) . I haven't replaced the clutch or had anyone else work on it.

_____

So the adjustment I made last night by extending the rod on the clutch is causing the current symptoms, and I should #1. re-adjust the rod back into the cabin ( last night I extended it ) and #2. Try a clutch bleed?
 
Last edited:
I had pump up issues and found a video on YouTube on 2g clutch assembly adjustment I'll try and find it and post the link, its by Jaframobile I do believe.... update can't get video to link up on tuners. Google Jaframobile clutch adjustment should be first video
 
Last edited:
The car has 133,xxx miles on it.

We wound up bleeding the clutch.. and then the clutch simply stuck to the floor. Then the mechanic I was working with diagnosed it as being the master cylinder. ( which appeared to have been replaced in the last 30-40,000 miles ) So he replaced that and adjusted the clutch and bing-bang-boom... :hellyeah: ... DSM is in good running condition again but does need some minor adjustment to the master cylinder
rod.

Btw, I had a "professional" shop take a look at it and they started quoting me clutch replacement prices without taking a look at it. So if you ever have this issue be wary of anybody you deal with in regard to this issue.

Issue: Would not go into gear with engine running.

Resolution: Replaced Master Cylinder. ( $40 parts / $60 labor w/ tip )



I'll keep my eye on it and if anything changes I'll keep ya'll posted. Thanks for your help and time everyone! :dsm:
 
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