which upgrade should I do first?

[GirlieGirlRcer]

I just went from a NT Eclipse 2 a Talon Tsi, got the car cheap but needed the motor rebuilt so it's in the shop now I should have it back by the middle of next week and wanted to do some mods to it but am new 2 a turbo car... I read a great article in Import Tuner about getting 106 more hp from just a 255 fp, downpipe, & FCD but was told that it was meant 4 the 1st g's................ where should I start?

 

[GSTMike]

If it was me and I was starting from scratch, I would start with an intake, 2.5" or 3" exhaust (depending on how heavily you are planning on modding the car, and a BOV of some kind depnding on your budget. A turbo timer is nice too to keep your turbo healthy. Just some ideas....

 

[paranoidTSi]

First off if you are getting a engine rebuild DON'T Upgrade it until the engine has set in.

As far as first upgrades go, upgrade your intake, get a 2.5"/3.0" exhaust, new blow-off valve, intercooler piping, boost gauge, manual boost controller to start..

 

[GirlieGirlRcer]

got everything there except the turbo timer... what about after that?

 

[GirlieGirlRcer]

hey thx 4 the replies, guess I should've been clearer, I've started a lil bit... I have the exhaust, stock 1st g BOV, manual boost controller & intake thats where I'm at now =)

 

[g0tEclipseD]

boost gauge, fuel pump

 

[GSTMike]

It all really depends on where you want to go power wise. What are you looking for from your car? I think we would be able to give you a better path if we knew what it is that you want...

 

[95AWDGSX]

GAWD!!...There's nothing more attractive than a woman involved in her DSM! Well, at least by the username I'm hoping it's a woman.

 

[GSTMike]

I second that!!!

 

[GirlieGirlRcer]

I'm looking at going upwards 300 hp 4 now.... what fp? the 255? or 190?

 

[GSTMike]

You would be fine with a 190 lph. If you think you may want more power the that go with the 255 lph and do it right the first time.

 

[g0tEclipseD]

iff u get the 255 then its recommended you get a new 150$ fuel pressure regulator.

 

[MNGSX]

If she's a 10 I'll set her up to run 9's :laugh:


Basics

1. Break the engine in right.
2. Boost gauge
3. Catback exhaust. I like the bosal system.
4. K&N or other air filter.
5. Manual Boost Controller
6. Magnacore Wires

While they have the engine out you might as well get an ACT 2600 or the AMS Feramic clutch put in. It will save you time and hassle later. It does'nt take long to start overtaxing the original equipment clutch on these cars.

You should really decide ahead of time just how far you want to go. That way you buy everything that works together and will not need to change things.

Once you know how far you want to go I'll have more suggestions.

Just remember

Fuel
Air
Spark

Improve all three.

On a DSM

Air = boost controller, bigger turbo, FMIC, Air filter, exhaust

Fuel = Injectors, pump, fuel filter, lines, FPR, engine management

Spark = wires, right heat range NGK for boost, timing.


You can shop around too. No reason why a fuel reg has to run $150 if you check the classifieds, DSM trader and Ebay.

I have been doing pretty well when if comes to getting good used stuff.

 

[fasteclipse1992]

first off dont read import tuner if u got a dsm. j/k u can read it if u want.
id do a boost guage and boost controller first. 2 cheap parts easy to hook up. and do all the free mods.

 

[GirlieGirlRcer]

Originally posted by fasteclipse1992
first off dont read import tuner if u got a dsm. j/k u can read it if u want.
id do a boost guage and boost controller first. 2 cheap parts easy to hook up. and do all the free mods.

what FREE mods??? got the boost controller & will get the gauge b4 the motor is done =)

 

[95AWDGSX]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/

your basic mods and free mods questions should all all be answered here. good luck with the car!

 

[MNGSX]

BOV dump tube

http://www.tgilmore.com/talon/dumptube.html

There is also EGR removal but on mild to moderately modified daily drivers on pump gas it is actually something you probably want.


Get a braided SS clutch line too.

It eliminates the stupid accumulator in the factory clutch line.

The only thing I can't stress enough is that NOW is the perfect time to upgrade the clutch. Power upgrades will kill that factory clutch sooo fast.

With the engine out and flywheel coming of for a rebuild. Honestly I'd get a ACT streetlight flywheel and an ACT 2100 (12 sec car) or an ACT 2600 (12-10 sec car). It's the best time to do these mods as they are far cheaper and easier to do with the engine out.

 

[Jebus[tuning]]

I know right where you're coming from..I did the same switch (94 n/t 1.8 to my talon now).

First thing I would do is break that new engine in, hopefully you got a 6bolt . Next I would get rid of the Stock UICP and BOV. If money's tight get the Dejon Tool Upper "L" pipe with a 1g BOV. If you're got money to play with I reccomment the Greddy UICP with Greddy Type S BOV.

Next I would get a boost gauge. Autometer makes great cheap boost gauges, but go Apex'i if you've got the money (gotta have the bling bling!!) Also get full a-pillar replacement with gauge holes to mount your gauges. You'll probably get a bling bling A/F Ratio meter and/or EGT down the road so 3 pods should be okay.

As far as intake goes, get rid of the Stock airbox and get a cheap ebay cone filter or go big time and get a K&N FIPK for a 3kgt (they fit just fine and flow awesome.) Don't bother with a hard pipe for the T-2-slow.

After that, I suggest you get a Buschur 3" Turboback exhaust. Buschur is one of the few places out there that makes TRUE 3" exhaust systems. That or Thermal research...Just stay away from stuff with resonators. Apex'i N1 (real one's not cheap knockoffs) are Nice too.

I would suggest a TT because they are nice, but just take care of your turbo if you don't.

Ummm yeah I'm on AIM a lot if you need anymore help so just hit me up.

Oh also if you're going to get a new clutch, don't get the ACT 2600, especially on a new motor. With FWD you're just inviting Crankwalk with a 2600. The 2100 should be awesome for you.

 

[MNGSX]

Right now do the clutch..

If the motor going in is the original motor rebuilt... therefore a 7 bolt he's right don't get a 2600.... I'm going to a 2900 on a 6 bolt engine...

On a seven bolt get the 2100 or this.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

About the same clamp load as the 2100 with a bit less pedal effort than the 2100 but about the same power capacity as the 2600.

Its the AMS feramic I was talking about..

This clutch is intended as an alternative to a 2600 in 2G cars that are prone to crankwalk, or any other DSM owner looking for the holding power of a heavy clutch with the pedal pressure of an ACT 2100. The way this is achieved is through a new clutch disc material that has a higher coefficient of friction than the ACT street compound while retaining it's drivability. This clutch will stand up to repeated launches and should have a lifespan equal to or better than the ACT street series of clutches.

http://www.automotosports.com/dsm_drivetrain.asp


Like I said before pick a path and match components.

The ACT street light flwyheel is a good idea too.