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For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

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Redline98GSX

Probationary Member
4
0
Jul 5, 2006
West Brookfield, Massachusetts
Hey, This is my first post on this website and just wanna say this is a great place to learn about DSM's. For the past 3 weeks I have been in search of a good condition, stock 5-speed GSX. I live in MA, and I have 2 that I am lookin at now....a 1998 GSX with 60K power everything, leather, and I dont know if the timing belt has been done and they are asking $10,000. Then there is a 1995 GSX with 80K miles, new KYB struts, and timing belt was changed at 60K and they are only asking $6,500. Why is there such a big difference in price? The only visual difference I can see is the bigger wing. I think I have read the 95's were more prone to crankwalk, but i am not sure. If anyone can give me some good pros and cons on these 2 different year GSX that would be great, sorry for the long first post and thanks for reading.
 
Redline98GSX said:
Hey, This is my first post on this website and just wanna say this is a great place to learn about DSM's. For the past 3 weeks I have been in search of a good condition, stock 5-speed GSX. I live in MA, and I have 2 that I am lookin at now....a 1998 GSX with 60K power everything, leather, and I dont know if the timing belt has been done and they are asking $10,000. Then there is a 1995 GSX with 80K miles, new KYB struts, and timing belt was changed at 60K and they are only asking $6,500. Why is there such a big difference in price? The only visual difference I can see is the bigger wing. I think I have read the 95's were more prone to crankwalk, but i am not sure. If anyone can give me some good pros and cons on these 2 different year GSX that would be great, sorry for the long first post and thanks for reading.

It looks like you did your research. :thumb:

A lot of people want a 2Gb (97-99s) with low mileage. The owner probably knows that someone will pay $10k for it, which is why he's asking 10k. The 1998 has a better body style (unless the owner of the 95 changed his to match a 97-99. And yes the 95-96s are more prone to crankwalk than the 98-99s, that being said, even a 98-99 can crankwalk.

As for the pros and cons,

1995-1996 2Ga

Pros:
Midrange quality ABS system among DSMs
Most 95 Models came with an EPROM ECU

2bg - 1997-1999

Pros:
The best ABS system among DSMs
Updated exterior/interior design

Cons:
No EPROM ECU

Source: 2ga - http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=eclipse2ga
Source: 2gb - http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=eclipse2gb
 
The 98 is more because obviously its 3 years newer & has less miles on it. The main differences between the 95-98 would be body molding/trim (front, rear, side skirts) & head/tail lights. As far as crankwalk goes, from the polls that have been done, 98 seems to be the year with the least amount of CW victims, believe its around 7%. Where as the 95 was around 25 or 30%, if I recall correctly. Personally I would go with the 98 as I like this body style much better but I guess it comes down to what you want to spend.
 
The 95 is the only 2G (I believe) with an EPROM ECU - So if you were going to go down the tuning path and get a DSMLink, you'd save yourself some hassles. There's several other key differences I can't think of off the top of my head, do a search for the "DSM 1000 Already Answered Questions" page, they have a listing of year differences I believe, as well as some good info for a new DSMer. Timing belt maintenance is definitely a good thing to keep in mind when shopping for a DSM, but don't let it be your end-all be-all when making the decision between these two. There's a $3,500 difference between these two cars, while the typical 60-70k mile service will only run you a couple hundred.

I really recommend that you take the one you're leaning toward to a mechanic and have him do a quick check for any latent problems or areas of worry that you have missed. Would probably cost you no more than $100 and would add a considerable piece of mind that you couldn't really get from a quick visual inspection.

Also, make sure either you or the mechanic you bring it to does a quick check for any signs of future cw by measuring play at the crankshaft.

Good luck shopping.
 
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