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2G Which clutch for my build?

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Fear

10+ Year Contributor
47
3
Aug 28, 2010
Sweden, Europe
Hi!
Since ive got a 7-bolt -96 engine i dont want more pressure on the throw out bearing than needed due to risk of crankwalk and dont want to run i twin/tripple due to the rattling noises since it i not a racecar.
Hoping to put out around 500hp and might rev up to 8500rpm, dont know what torque will be.
Got any suggestions of sutable clutches that will handle this power, be able to shift at 8500rpm without problems while not put to much pressure on the crank? or links to other threads about this?
Thanks!
 
Just get a clutch that's comfortable, and handles what you want it to. Don't assume you're going to have crankwalk. While it is more common in 95-97 models, it's relatively uncommon to actually happen with normal driving and good maintenance. Get upgraded thrust bearings and you're set. Crankwalk claims are usually a misdiagnosis of another problem. I had a crankwalked engine, first hand, but it was a confirmed crankwalk and it was caught before it destroyed itself. It's not as common as everyone believes, and I didn't accept it as crankwalk at first.
 
Spyder:
I was just trying to avoid a known issue but that makes sense, please tell which upgraded thrustbearings you speak of?
Honestly i have wery little experience of dsm clutches so e feel i would need some help with recommending one that is proven to shift without problems up to 8500rpm and also not that much more clamping force than i need.

Doubleclutch:
I searched and didnt find to much about them, could you post a link please?
 
I've never bought bearings that specifically claimed to be an upgrade to the thrust bearing, but with all those crankwalk claims, I'd like to think that aftermarket bearings from reputable vendors/brands would be an upgrade to the oem ones and should in theory be better. Someone please let me know if I'm wrong to think that so that even I know better. I've never had a thrust bearing fail on me ever, even when I built the engine myself. Sadly the crankwalked engine I had I unknowingly bought it that way.

As far as clutches, during the last 6 months I had my old spyder, I blew up 2 parts store clutch discs (like the rivets failed and the discs fell apart), and then got an ACT 2100 sprun street disc with the oem pressure plate and Fidanza light weight flywheel. Pedal felt completely stock to me.
 
Bling/
i am aware that clutches are rated in torque but i dont know what kind of torque it will produce. therefore i mentioned the info i had. About the rest you said, i couldnt agree more but i was looking for a proven clutch on dsms that wouldnt put more pressure on the thrust bearing than necessary and also proven to shift at high rpms, not just buy a random clutch that can handle the power.

Grndsm/
I havent really set a budget but for a single disc clutch i dont think i would like to pay more than around 600$? As i live in sweden there will probably be some shipping costs aswell.

So far it seems i will give the southbend clutches a try, their ss-x with full face ceramic seems like a good option
 
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In this case I would attempt to estimate your torque output based on what turbo you're using and how much boost you can support on that turbo with the fuel system you're using. You should be able to come up with some sort of range even if it's not an exact dyno measurement of what your torque is.
 
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