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Where can i buy a Wheel Bearing

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lucid15

10+ Year Contributor
527
0
Oct 10, 2008
Portland, Oregon
JUst took my car in and had everythning else checked over (cv, strut, etc) its all good but just the wheel bearing is slightly bad (driveable). He quoted me at $450 for parts and labor stating the part was $160 or something like that. Does anyone know where to get a cheap OEM wheel bearing? Im thinking im going to hire someone local around here to help me do it myself to save $300 or so.
 
I had to replace a wheel bearing a while ago. Advanced or any parts store should have them and relatively cheap. One of my buddies worked there and said they got a lot of their parts from the dealership anyways. The only extra cost I had was to take my steering knuckle to a machine shop and have them press out the old and press in the new bearing which cost $30.
 
They carry MOOG hub assembly's at advance auto parts for a little under a hundred bucks! I've had them on the front of my talon for over 30,000 miles with minimal wear! And if you order online you can google discount codes and get them for a steal.
 
Jnz has the fronts listed at 122 a piece for front OEM wheel bearing. I would recommend doing both sides at the same time. Parts stores have them for cheaper. This is for the hub and bearing so you don't have to get anything pressed in or out.
 
That looks good. I only changed a 1g front wheel bearing which is different because your assembly already comes pressed in (talking about the wheel bearing).

It looks as though you just have to take the wheel, brake calipers, brake rotors off and unbolt the old assembly and bolt the new one on. You will need to take the axle nut off too so don't forget about that big socket you need.

Depending on your level of experience with working on cars, one side may take you up to 2 hours or as little as 45 minutes in my opinion. The type of tools you have is another variable as well (i.e. air tools, basic tools) But again, that depends on your previous automobile experience.
 
Those wheel bearing/hub assemblies are the right way to go. I got mine recently from JNZ and they are the OEM ones. The difficulty of that job varies depending on the corrosion. If the axle comes out of the old hub easily and all of the necessary bolts come loose it will be a snap to do. When you put it back together use a generous amount of anti-seize for next time.
 
Mine were rusted pretty bad. I did it on the car but it was a PITA.

I'd remove the whole knuckle and use an impact gun + release agent to break the bolts loose. Then lots of release agent on the hub seal, a BFH and a strong forearm.
 
Used the moog from Adv, had no issues. My CV was rusted so bad in the hub I had to grind them both out of the knuckle.

I'd double check your cv boots too, might as well replace em while you're there if you need to.
 
Moog hubs are made by BCA / Federal Mogul, but most of the ones I've seen pass through my workplace lately are Made In China so beware of what you buy.

Also, axle torque is crucial for bearing life...165 lb/ft for both the front and rear of an AWD 2G.
 
Just buy the entire wheel hub.

I used these. Works great.
Oops those were for the rear. Ill find the fronts

Fronts- Front Wheel Hub Assembly - Auto Parts Warehouse
I used the cheap ones. (the first one on the page $61.70)Pre greased, nice and smooth, no noises while cruising.

Thanks for the site reccommendation! Best prices ive seen on these... i went ahead and ordered two of the Timken front wheel hub assemblies. I guess now ill have to decide if i want both replaced now, or just the one and save one for later...

I dont think my other one is close to failing seeing as my car only has 89k miles and the other one only went bad because i slid into a curb (black ice) going about 5mph, so that would only make sense why it is making noise now :)
 
Thanks for the site reccommendation! Best prices ive seen on these... i went ahead and ordered two of the Timken front wheel hub assemblies. I guess now ill have to decide if i want both replaced now, or just the one and save one for later...

I dont think my other one is close to failing seeing as my car only has 89k miles and the other one only went bad because i slid into a curb (black ice) going about 5mph, so that would only make sense why it is making noise now :)

Its good to replace both just so they have the same mileage down the road and peice of mind thatthey are both new. Its an easy Iinstall too.
 
Its good to replace both just so they have the same mileage down the road and peice of mind thatthey are both new. Its an easy Iinstall too.

Very true! You convinced me, both are getting replaced. I think a couple of locals are actually going to help me out with it, should be cool! Ive replaced the clutch 3-4 times but have never actually done anything related to the hub, or suspension.
 
Moog hubs are made by BCA / Federal Mogul, but most of the ones I've seen pass through my workplace lately are Made In China so beware of what you buy.

Also, axle torque is crucial for bearing life...165 lb/ft for both the front and rear of an AWD 2G.

If anything, over-torque them.
 
Replacing the clutch is about 10x the work of replacing the hubs. Take the wheels and brakes off (7 bolts) then there is 4 bolts that hold each hub on and the axle nut. At the most you may also need to take the bolt out for the soft brake line, so you can lay the caliper on the floor if you have to beat it (old bearing) with a bfh to get it out.

Make sure you clean up the surface in the knuckle of any rust, swipe with grease or anti seize, then do the same on the bearing and slide into place.
 
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