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eclipsegst1995

Probationary Member
21
0
Feb 2, 2010
Franklin, West Virginia
So i am 98 percent sure that i have the god awful c word:barf:... What would you do. I have a problem with griding into third gear and the shifter moving back a forth just a little bit, the clutch is kinda sticky sometimes, also i hear what sounds like a whurring sound. I dont know much about crankwalk but i hate to even hear the word anymore. I have read about the symptoms and i have a good number of them but its hard to tell as each engine is different i assume from what i have read. What would be your take on what to do? Would you find an imported 7 bolt engine or would you build an engine? If i bought upgraded pistons and they were the same compression ratio as stock i wouldnt need to have anything tuned would i? I just want some input on what everyone thinks about this... If i would take a 7 bolt with an upgraded crank, pistons, rods, a new head, just a normal but forged internals with all the same specs as stock wouldnt it be almost the same but stronger? someone just let me know something about this thread.
 
It seems like you have a couple different problems. If you want to know if you have crankwalk for sure, you can measure the play on the crank. I dont think the grinding gears or the play with the shifter has anything to do with crankwalk. When my car crankwalked, I floored it, the car didnt go anywhere and the knock sensor flashed from the crank hitting the block. Then when I turned the steering wheel to the left the clutch peddle would hit the floor. If I were you I would look into each one of those problems before you can conclude that your car actually has crankwalked. If it did, your next move would be based on your budget. I just went ahead and got a 6bolt bare block and built it with eagle rods and wiseco pistons. With some head work from the machine shop it put me back about $3g's. A good alternative would be getting a 6 bolt block with 2g pistons and 1g rods. If you want to keep your 7 bolt, you can throw an evo 8 crank in there and Ive read that should be fine.
 
I would first find out if you actually do have crankwalk. Grab the crank pulley and see if you can move it back and forth. It might be able to move just a tiny bit if you can even move it with everything together. No point in upgrading to a different kinda of crankshaft as people are making over 1000whp on the stock crank. Yes if you rebuild the engine with everything the same you wouldn't have to do tuning.
 
Instead of worrying about crankwalk first, why not check your clutch fluid level, master cylinder, slave cylinder, check clutch adjustment, inspect the fork as a friend engages the clutch. After you have done that then check the end play. Dont just assume cw
 
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