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whats the 2nd most important gauge besides boost?

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i would also think oil pressure and fuel pressure are pretty good to have, voltometer is pretty good too, if u dont have some other device wit one in it
 
Originally posted by My99LaserAWD
whats so special about a EGT gauge? i would think a/f would be more important, i mean not if u dont have an A/F controller, but i would want to know if i was running rich or lean and have it fixed, any real racer knows a/f is very important....
Yes, it is. Unfortunately, the AF gauges we can get, which work off the not-lots-better-than-random O2 sensor, don't really tell us much information. They're too scattered in response and varied in curve to be a serious tuning tool.
 
Originally posted by Defiant
Yes, it is. Unfortunately, the AF gauges we can get, which work off the not-lots-better-than-random O2 sensor, don't really tell us much information. They're too scattered in response and varied in curve to be a serious tuning tool.

so what would make an a/f gauge better? a better o2 sensor?, and i still wasnt answered on what was so special on an egt gauge, y is exhaust temp so important?
 
Originally posted by Defiant
Yes, it is. Unfortunately, the AF gauges we can get, which work off the not-lots-better-than-random O2 sensor, don't really tell us much information. They're too scattered in response and varied in curve to be a serious tuning tool.

I mean im looking at this chart and its showing that the A/F ratio is pretty important, I mean if your at the track underfull boost and your not getting voltage you need to showing on it then you know something is wrong..
 
GAUGE READING FULL THROTTLE AIR/FUEL RATIO
.000 17.0:1
.100 17.0:1
.200 16.0:1
.300 15.5:1
.400 15.0:1
.500 14.7.0:1
.600 Dangerously Lean 14.6:1
.700 Getting lean 14.5:1
.800 Max power(Lean) normally aspirated 14.2:1
.875 Max Power normally aspirated 13.5:1
.900 Max Power (Rich) (NOS,blower,Turbo) 13.2:1
1.000 Very Rich 12.5:1

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Right here mine is showing .600 volts or close to stoemetric (perfect) a/f ratio for crusing..
 

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Because your using i'm assuming a stock narrow band O2 sensor the A/F gauge is pretty worthless. All it can really tell you is 3 things. Lean Condition, Stoichiometric (or near), and Rich Condition. Since lean and rich without any sort of value are pretty vague you should just get the egt so you know when your running too hot and get a wideband to tune with or find a dyno shop that has one you can use.
 
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Originally posted by TSi999


I mean im looking at this chart and its showing that the A/F ratio is pretty important, I mean if your at the track underfull boost and your not getting voltage you need to showing on it then you know something is wrong..
Yes, the AF ratio is crucial, but an AF gauge isn't worth much more than to tell you the O2 sensor is working, not that your ratios are staying where long engine life wants them.
 
Originally posted by Tallen
dave99gst...how much for the EGT if you do decide to seel it?

i sold em a while ago - i sold the set for $300 ( egt,volt,boost ) they were a-m phantoms.
 
Well this is just me because my alternator died on me 3 times already so for piece of mind and not be surprised I installed a voltmeter and I drive a little easier knowing I have the foresight to see my alternator going out before I drive off to bumble F no where and get stuck.

BUN
 
I've never had an alternator go out on me w/out showing some symptoms. I'm not saying that it's not possible though. Besides the stock gauges, boost is the only gauge I have and it'll be the only other gauge I will ever need. The stock RPM gauge goin to 9k is perfect.
 
gimpybrad, why did you decide to bring this three year old thread back to life?! :toobad: :nono:
 
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