What to use to clean oil/Burnt oil in a 16g/14b Rebuild

[danielsl1999gsx]

Well thanks to Extreme PSI crappy oil drain kit, which was a huge PIA to get to properly fitted and in the end wasn't even straight. It blew my 16g, so i bought a used 14b and fix the drain line to become a bit straighter and it ended blowing my 14b as well. You all can call me a noob thinking i didnt properly install this but i had a bunch of people help me and we couldn't get it properly straight. So now im in the market to rebuilding two turbos and am wondering what you guys use to clean you turbos with? the oil all collected in the hotside and 02 hosing?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Post your Question here..http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/393636-questions-justin-9.html

 

[chuckstsi]

How about glass beading it?

 

[JusMX141]

Well thanks to Extreme PSI crappy oil drain kit

A huge mistake that has now cost you two turbos when a brand new $12 2G oil drain with the upper holes slotted would do the job it's supposed to and never fail.

How about glass beading it?

Media-blasting anything oily = a huge mistake.

 

[knochgoon24]

So the oil is on the exhaust side? I'd just reassemble it. As soon as you get the exhaust hot the first time, it will burn right off.

 

[danielsl1999gsx]

I thought since i got a new SS feed line that i would need a bigger drain so i went ahead and bought a drain kit. But it bit me in the A$$ hard.. I just bought a FP return like and man oh man was it such a better built line from the start. But it was too late to save my 14b, anyways yeah i was thinking about just reassembling it after it. i just wanted to know if i had to clean them first. Thanks for everything

 

[JusMX141]

I thought since i got a new SS feed line that i would need a bigger drain so i went ahead and bought a drain kit.

Most -10AN aftermarket drain kits are smaller inside than an OEM drain....you should have just kept the stock 2G drain and modified it to fit your turbo.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small.html

 

[danielsl1999gsx]

Sigh.. this would have been a lot of help and save me a lot of money. well i am now using the
FP Blue Oil Drain Tube, and it fits great and install was a breeze. i have this feeding my 16 & 14b
1G DSM Eclipse 4G63 Stainless Turbo Oil Feed Line 16G - eBay (item 380322921607 end time Apr-07-11 19:22:07 PDT)

will the FP be enough to drain what this is feeding?

 

[Maverick4g63]

Sigh.. this would have been a lot of help and save me a lot of money. well i am now using the
FP Blue Oil Drain Tube, and it fits great and install was a breeze. i have this feeding my 16 & 14b
1G DSM Eclipse 4G63 Stainless Turbo Oil Feed Line 16G - eBay (item 380322921607 end time Apr-07-11 19:22:07 PDT)

will the FP be enough to drain what this is feeding?

Your looking at 50 bucks a turbo as long as your shafts arent damaged. It may not be as bad as you think man.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

 

[danielsl1999gsx]

yeah the shaft aren't damage, the seals are just blown now, blades spin freely without touching either housing. Off topic but where do you guys get your j-pipe gaskets from? i have the thin metal one and i am pretty sure im leaking air when building boost because i hear a whistling sound.

 

[chuckstsi]

Media-blasting anything oily = a huge mistake.

Yeah I would normally agree if its oily. If its caked on carbon, I dont think you could go wrong, in my opinion.

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

How did you blow two turbo's from an oil return line?

 

[atruepretense]

Best thing to clean that crap...hot tanking. Works great. It'll look brand new.

 

[gen2allday]

CHEAPEST way to clean oil even do it in my customers engines for their sludge is using Diesel. For your oil issue soak it in a bucket. Quick efficient way to remove sludge is putting 1 quart of diesel inside ## engine running it at idle for 15 min 2 minutes of 30mph running it for another 15 min then putting it on jacks if u dont have access to a lift. Removing the drain plug/filter and GENTLY!!!! removing the oil pan and letting the old oil and grime drop out. Takes about 20 minutes...Then fill it back up with oil and ## good. Ive been doing this at the shop for 1 year and the other mechanics have been doing it for idk like 25+ years. SWEAR TO GOD never had anything come back blown up or broken due to it. I was skeptable about it before like you ###### are. I said yea right ton of bs but it really works. Good luck

 

[Maverick4g63]

yeah the shaft aren't damage, the seals are just blown now, blades spin freely without touching either housing. Off topic but where do you guys get your j-pipe gaskets from? i have the thin metal one and i am pretty sure im leaking air when building boost because i hear a whistling sound.

I used this kit to rebuild my 16g last weekend. Anyone should be able to do this in an hour or two.

The kit

The instructions

To get to the "Part 2" thread of the instructions just hit the next thread button. You'll see.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

That's assuming that your turbo does not need balanced I guess? Whatever happened to the warnings of trying to rebuild yourslef? Does it depedns on the condition of the turbo?

I'm having the problem of burning oil on boost only, and the heavier the boost, the worse the oil burning, thinner oils burn more, such as Mobile 1 burns worse than Castrol synthetic. Dino burns bad too, especially after the oil gets hot. No shaft play, and it looks like my oil return lines are clean. Good compression numbers, no oil burning at idle, good valve stem seals. Wet compression test not much different than dry.

 

[JusMX141]

That's assuming that your turbo does not need balanced I guess?

Why would it need balanced if there is no wheel damage?