What parts are more crucial to the tranny performance?

[mindset]

As much as I don't want to start this thread, I am. Ok, I need a AWD rebuild. I'm looking at TRE's Stage 1.5 and Shep's Stage 1. I am NOT asking which company is better. What I am asking is which trans comes with more parts that are crucial to the performance of the tranny. Both of them come with similar, and different parts. The problem I'm having is figuring out what the parts do, I'm no tranny expert. I have no idea what each part's job is in the tranny. What it comes down to is that I'm paying $1000 for either of them. I did search, but found nothing, just to as which company is better. I want to know which parts are more crucial, understand?

Here's Shep's Stage 1:
* Shims for setting preload
* New Nylon Shifter Pad
* New Center Diff Side Shims
* New End Nuts
* New Roll Pins
* New Intermediate Gear Bearings
* New Input Shaft Bearings
* New Input, Output, and both Drive Shaft Seals
* New 1-2-3-4 Synchro Springs
* New 5th Gear Synchro Rings
* New 3-4 Synchro Rings
* New 1-2 Hub/Sleeve kit with Double Synchro Rings
* New Shep Trans Spec 2nd Gear
* New 3-4 Fork
* New 1-2 Fork
* 1990 pricing
* New engine dowels

And here's TRE's Stage 1.5:



New high friction 1-5th synchros

New 1st-2nd hub & sleeve

New 3rd/4th hub & sleeve

New 1st-2nd shift fork

New 3rd/4th shift fork

New double synchro 2nd gearset

New Input shaft bearings

New Intermediate shaft bearings

New needle bearings under 1st -5th gears

New oil seals

New synchro keys

New synchro key springs

New front & center differential shims

Neodymium trash magnet, oil filter and magnetic drain plug.

New snap rings, heavy duty double roll pins, end nuts, bearing shims and all the other non-reusables

Center differential Torrington thrust bearing upgrade

Glass beading of transmission case.

 

[Rob10_99]

Wow is all I can say...
I would think most people are happy with a double synchro 1/2 and 3/4. Other than that its all about where 'you' think it will break.

 

[mindset]

Wow is all I can say...
I would think most people are happy with a double synchro 1/2 and 3/4. Other than that its all about where 'you' think it will break.

Thanks. That's all I needed to know. And why wow? I have no idea what the hell is going on inside tranny's. I wanna get the best bang for the buck.

 

[toofast82]

The main differences I see is that the TRE 1.5 uses a new 3r/4th hub and sleeve as well as the torrington bearing upgrade.

 

[jrohner]

Either one should be great. What are your goals? Are you going to race the car? How hard do you drive it? These all play a big role in what, if any, upgrades you should get for the transmission. For example, if you're going to mod it and drag race it, the 4-spider center diff could be a good thing to look in to; if you're staying somewhat stock and aren't going to be too hard on stuff, just go with a rebuild without much for upgrades and you should be fine. When I was looking before, I thought it looked like TRE had slightly better deals. You also may want to look at jackstransmissions.com

 

[mindset]

Either one should be great. What are your goals? Are you going to race the car? How hard do you drive it? These all play a big role in what, if any, upgrades you should get for the transmission. For example, if you're going to mod it and drag race it, the 4-spider center diff could be a good thing to look in to; if you're staying somewhat stock and aren't going to be too hard on stuff, just go with a rebuild without much for upgrades and you should be fine. When I was looking before, I thought it looked like TRE had slightly better deals. You also may want to look at jackstransmissions.com

Thanks for the help. My goal, for now, is achieving around 350hp. I knew my goals would have a play on what trans to get but I do not plan on driving the car that hard at all, especially since I haven't drove it in about 2 months now. I am looking at the Stage 2's but it's just the matter of me wanting to spend the extra $400.

 

[crimsondragon]

Look in DogBox Racing as well. They do cheap tranny rebuilds.

 

[twicks69]

The key part to doing a transmission rebuild of this level is to replace the following at a minimum:

*1st gear synchro

*2nd gear synchro (double synchro upgrade using late 2G 2nd gear).

*3rd and 4th gear synchros (heavy duty synchro for late 1991-early 1992 is the best -- this is used in the rebuild setups that use a heavy duty 3/4 hub and slider -- it is the same hub and slider that comes stock in late 1991-early 1992 transmissions, and is the same hub and slider used for the Evo 3 3rd/4th gearset).

*5th gear synchro

*Reverse synchro (if there is wear on the backside from a worn reverse wave spring or if it is burnt from a worn out reverse cone). If it is worn, replace the reverse cone, machine screws, and reverse wave spring in conjunction so it doesn't happen again.

*2nd gear (the late 2G double-synchro gear is a drop-in affair and is an upgrade for all 1G's).

*Input shaft inner and outer tapered roller bearings (This is a must do.)

*Intermediate shaft inner and outer tapered roller bearings (This is also a must do.)

*******The input shaft inner tapered roller bearing, and intermediate shaft outer tapered roller bearing sees the most abuse on the two shafts and fail regularly. They should be replaced as standard practice during any transmission rebuild. The input shaft outer tapered roller bearing, and intermediate shaft inner tapered roller bearing get replaced for the fact that they need to be pressed off the shafts to service the gearsets/synchros, etc. It is not worth it to try and reuse these bearings after you have already pressed them off the shaft. Always be sure to install the new matching bearing race for each bearing -- this is always done at a transmission builder like TRE/Shep/Jacks, etc. as each bearing is matched to a bearing race and should always be installed like this. If you run a used bearing on a new race, or a new bearing on a used race, you will have uneven wear and the potential for failure very quickly.

*1/2 hub and slider (most shops use the 2G version as it is the updated version for our cars).

*1/2 hub and slider keys (these tiny keys are susceptable of getting clogged up over time with debris, causing poor shifting engagement -- replace them if there is any wear on them).

*1/2 hub and slider springs (always replace as this is what allows the slider to keep a gear engaged and reduces wear on the slider engagement teeth)

*3/4 hub and slider (I would strongly recommend replacing this part as well if there is ANY sort of surface wear, galling, rounding of the engagement teeth on the slider, wear on the outer splines of the hub, etc. as this is the most important part to replace if you have a gear grinding issue, as the replacement of only a synchro will just bandage-fix the underlying problem). As stated before, the late 1991-early 1992 hub and slider is the best, and does require specific parts to be used in any other transmission than the late 1991-early 1992's. It requires a matched-build-date (late 1991-early 1992) 3/4 shift fork, 3/4 shift rail and rail end, hub and slider, hub and slider keys, hub and slider springs, 3rd and 4th gear synchros, and 3rd and 4th gears (need to be any 1991-1992 with the small diameter synchro setup). You cannot directly drop this part into a 1990 or a late 1992-1999 transmission without these corresponding parts. This hub and slider is "heavy duty" because it has the thickest/beefiest slider of transmission years and will have less of a tendency of shattering from power. It does have smaller synchros than the late 1992-1999 transmissions, but it comes at the benefit of slider strength for the cost of less synchro engagement surface area.

*3/4 hub and slider keys (again replace if there is any wear).

*3/4 hub and slider springs (always replace with new ones).

*Center differential spider gear shims and oiling washers (always replace)

*Torrington bearing upgrade (great upgrade that helps make the center diff last longer without destroying the upper pinion gear from microwelding itself to the center diff case -- causing catostrophic failure if it occurs).

*Oil seals (input shaft, output shaft and both axle seals -- do it; it is cheap).

*New input shaft, intermediate shaft, and viscous coupler snaprings, roll pins, end shaft nuts, etc. (always replace; they are non-reusable parts).

*Upgrade trash magnet (good insurance).

*1/2 and 3/4 shift forks should be replaced every time with the proper corresponding hub and slider (*this is for the 3/4 shift fork).

*5/Reverse shift fork (replace only if there is damage or wear -- it sees the least amount of wear of the three shift forks).

*****Debur and detail gear surfaces along with the intermediate shaft, input shaft, and center differential case gear!!!*****

I hope this helps you in deciding what transmission to go with.

Thanks,

 

[mindset]

Thanks twicks. That helps a lot. So do you recommend jumping up to a stage 2 or 3 then?

I also just looking into Dogbox Racing. They have super cheap prices and plus they weld the diff.