The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

what kinda rotors??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

eclipsegsx97979

15+ Year Contributor
78
0
Nov 2, 2004
springfield, Massachusetts
im looking to upgrade my brake rotors now that im putting down 375awhp i now need stopping power... i was looking at a set of cross drilled and slotted rotors front and back for my 2g awd.... is that a good choice or no? my car isnt a daily driver and i currently have hawk pads on it that are new...



kevin
 
I would just go with the slotted rotors. The drilled rotors tend to crack quite a bit under severe heat and I've seen that first hand. Just grab the rotors from TheSpeedFactor. They have the best prices on Brembo rotors I have ever seen.

I am a firm believer that good pads are what stops your car. I've run both the dual piston caliper, with autozone pads, and single piston calipers, with EBC green pads, and I can
honestly say that I stopped better with the single piston set-up.
 
BaddAssGst said:
...slotted rotors. The drilled rotors .... .

I am a firm believer that good pads are what stops your car. ....dual piston caliper...autozone pads... single piston calipers, with EBC green pads, ...I stopped better with the single piston set-up.

Braking is converting kinetic energy(speed) to heat energy(hot brakes) by means of friction(pads).

Good pads and tiny rotors can stop your car once from 60-0mph just as good as any MONSTER brake set-up. The problem comes when you want to stop from 130mph, drive down a mountain road, or are on-off the brakes repetatively (racing).

There-in is the difference. Large rotors (300 - 320mm) have a great capacity to absorb the heat away from the pads, and convect the heat energy to the air (vanes are a centrifugal pump).

Slots increase your pad coefficient of friction (by wearing out pads quicker) and holes help with convection. Done improperly, holes will cause heat-cycle fatige cracks.

fixed four piston, and to a lesser extent, dual piston calipers apply more even pressure to the pad, and increase the rotor effective radius.

The secret to brakes is big rotors, good pads, open style wheels and air supply. As long as you are doing it, may as well show off with a nice set of calipers.
 
My solution to this problem was the AEM big rotor kit front and rear with Porterfield R4S pads. I'm very happy with the setup (once I got the front rotors to fit), I planned on some testing to determine the resultant bias, but to be honest it's "good enough" as it stands, so I never bothered.

2G brakes are heat sink mass limited - drilling holes or otherwise removing metal will raise the temperature of the rotor which will require pads with a higher operating temperature - most of the time those pads need to be warmed up before they work, which on a street car is a really really bad combination.

TCE builds big brake kits for 2Gs as well, which will give a dramatic improvement.


Charles
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top