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What is a necessity for my short block?

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definitiveno

15+ Year Contributor
1,237
8
Sep 8, 2004
Reno/Sacramento, California
I am thinking new bearings, pistons and rods :confused:

What else is a "must do" while having this thing apart?
 
Oh, definatly have it balanced and blue printed too, but thats it and than I'm putting it back together......


Looking for 450 to the wheels daily street trim, 550 once a year race gas/track trim.
 
While the car is apart I plan on port polish, 3 angle valve job, 1mm oversized valves, springs and retainers.

I'd like the engine to do 9 grand reliably. Probly won't make alot of power passed 8k but I'd like the engine to be flexible in case I change or upgrade the car down the road...
 
definativeno, just stick with the basics, eagles, wisecos, clevites, balance shaft rem'and a balance. What you have planned for the head dept sounds fine and a set of cams thats your choice and to make it suit what you plan with the car! Fuel system?? just keep searching the threads there are a few options that you will have to set up to suit your needs! so just check out vehicles stats and what they have achieved
 
Most every thing ive read on this board suggests that mitsubishi bearings are thicker and supposedly of better quality than the clevite bearings. I ran a search on that some time ago and found that one of the big guys (forget who exectly, shep?) swore by mitsu bearings and used nothing but in his race engines......


Did I miss understand some thing? Should I opt for the clevites instead?


Fuel: Dsmlink, 750's, walbro 255 HP, aero FPR with guage.

Cam: fp2's
 
WTF Urban legend warning !!!!!!!
Mitsubishi bearings are not "repeat" NOT thicker than the Clevite bearings, or any other brand of bearings for the 4G63. For if they were there would be a ton of people out there with junked bottom ends. I would like to know how crap like this gets started,

You know if you think about it, apply some logic, and basic mathematics. You would realize that this is not possible and still have the proper oil clearances. Let alone trun over and run.

For example since this is an urban legend, lets keep the numbers simple.
Lets say we have a connecting rod with a housing diameter (this would be the diameter of the big end of the connecting rod when torqued to specification) of 2.000, a crank rod pin diameter ( this is the diameter of the rod journal on the crankshaft) of 1.900, and several rod bearings. For this example we will throw out bearing crush, because it is way above the level of this thread.

OK lets say that the manufacturer reccomends an oil Clarence of .002, what do you think the thickness of the bearing should be if the housing diameter is 2.000, the crank pin is 1.900, and we want .002 for oil Clarence? But keep in mind that it is a diameter, and there are two halves to a bearing. Hummmm lets see .049. So if we apply the thought process of the urban legend then the Mitsubishi bearing must be .049, and the other ones must be less than that, say .048 or .047, but wait that would give us an oil Clarence of .004 or .006. Unless of coarse according to legend that the machining specifications on the rod journals, and the housing diameters of the rods are different for varying brands of bearings (not).

Do bearings vary in thickness yes, but at .0001 level, hardly worth mentioning in terms of added bearing strength. Of coarse the thicknesses will vary if the crank is ground undersize, but if that were the case then we weren't comparing apples to apples were we.

"definitiveno" find someone who knows about motors, specifically the 4G63 and ask them to help you. That way you will end up with a reliable motor, and maybe learn something along the way.
 
^^^ Someone should debunk this stuff more often Big Woo, it would clean up alot of the crap floating round out there. :dsm:
 
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