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What head gasket to use?

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Scott_S

15+ Year Contributor
182
4
Feb 17, 2006
Austin, Minnesota
Hi. Like the title says, what are your opnions on head gaskets. I don't need anything fancy because if I go much bigger than what I'm running now I might as well do a full rebuild. Really the gasket only needs to hold no more than 35 psi because the MOST I will run is maybe ~25. So I'm thinking an OE mitsu one. Any other suggestions? I will also be using ARP head studs
 
My issue with pushing coolant was not from detonation. Cylinder pressure is too high due to running 27psi and aggressive timing, 21 degrees. I'd like my timing lower but with 1150s (for my E85/93 mix, it's only at 65% IDC), chip, GM Maf and S-AFC, that's the lowest it will go at wot. I replaced the Mitsu composite with another Mitsu composite because I thought the original 14 yr old one was just tired. I also went with composite because I was not going to have the block or head resurfaced as recommended when going MLS. If I pull the head again though, I may just try keltalon's recommendation.
 
Here is a pic of a felpro permatorque head gasket that I took off a while back that pushed coolant. When I took it off it look normal until I drilled out the rivets and took the gasket apart. One of the thin metal layer of the gasket showed signs of knock right near the coolant passage. If you look closely at the gasket you can see that layer has waves from the knock. This broke the seal of the gasket. Next time any of you who are running a beaded head gasket pull your off just take the gasket apart and examine the layers individually you will see something similar!

My issue with pushing coolant was not from detonation. Cylinder pressure is too high due to running 27psi and aggressive timing, 21 degrees. I'd like my timing lower but with 1150s (for my E85/93 mix, it's only at 65% IDC), chip, GM Maf and S-AFC, that's the lowest it will go at wot. I replaced the Mitsu composite with another Mitsu composite because I thought the original 14 yr old one was just tired. I also went with composite because I was not going to have the block or head resurfaced as recommended when going MLS. If I pull the head again though, I may just try keltalon's recommendation.

Do you still have the old mitsu gasket? If so take it apart and look at the metal layer trust me its going to show signs of detonation from too much timing. The thing that gets me is why aren't all the metal layers of a beaded gasket the same thickness? Its always the thinner layers that suffer the damage. Grommet style is the way to go:thumb:
 

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Do you still have the old mitsu gasket? If so take it apart and look at the metal layer trust me its going to show signs of detonation from too much timing. The thing that gets me is why aren't all the metal layers of a beaded gasket the same thickness? Its always the thinner layers that suffer the damage. Grommet style is the way to go

Unfortunately I do not. I don't recall the composite head gasket to have even had layers. I'm sure if I did check there would have been some ripples from detonation. I know for certain though that my new composite gasket is pushing coolant from the head lifting causing improper seal. With only the E85 mix used on this composite gasket, the most knock that I will infrequently see is only about 4 counts.
 
My issue with pushing coolant was not from detonation. Cylinder pressure is too high due to running 27psi and aggressive timing, 21 degrees. I'd like my timing lower but with 1150s (for my E85/93 mix, it's only at 65% IDC), chip, GM Maf and S-AFC, that's the lowest it will go at wot. I replaced the Mitsu composite with another Mitsu composite because I thought the original 14 yr old one was just tired. I also went with composite because I was not going to have the block or head resurfaced as recommended when going MLS. If I pull the head again though, I may just try keltalon's recommendation.

I decided to go with stock mitsu headgasket as well. They are good for up to 30psi with arp headstuds and copper sealant on HG. You will need your head resurfaced though even if it is stock oem headgasket. For MLS you need both head and block resurfaced.
 
:boring: Nobody never mention anything about blowing a gasket! Its about the gaskets ability to seal after a knock episode I guess until you are making 500 plus hp you will not understand. Mitsu mls is alright but the power enterprise full gromett seals like no other. I should know I have tried 3 mitsu mls with L19 studs and they refuse to seal at my power levels the power enterprise is the only one that did the job:D

Sorry I misread your post, but i completely understand what your saying, and i do not have 500hp.
 
I decided to go with stock mitsu headgasket as well. They are good for up to 30psi with arp headstuds and copper sealant on HG. You will need your head resurfaced though even if it is stock oem headgasket. For MLS you need both head and block resurfaced.

Just don't detonate trust me you will be back revisiting this thread:D

Sorry I misread your post, but i completely understand what your saying, and i do not have 500hp.

Its cool! I just put the information out there so that its available if you ever decide to increase hp and run into a coolant pushing issue.:thumb:
 
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