Went to the track.. Need some help

[mini zilo]

I took my 96 Auto GSX to the track yesterday... The car wasn't ready to go to the track, but all my friends were going, so I figured I might as well race for shits. My times were horrible of course (what I get for bringing the car when it is not ready) I had to let off most of the time so it wouldn't creep, and I could NOT get the damn car to move off the line.

My mods are : Evo 3 16g (ported, 34 flapper), stock o2 housing unported (CREEP LIKE A MOFO), K&N filter, injen intake, hard piping, HKS ssqv (recirc) 1g TB, BC 272 Cams, MBC, apex n1 dp and catback. Stock fuel, but I am going back to the track next tuesday, and before I go, I am installing the 650s, safc, and walbro 255 that I have... So keep that in mind...



When I put the BC 272 cams in, my low end got really shitty of course (expected) and my top end got better (naturally). Of course, with my stock torque converter, it is really hard to get the car moving and launch it. I made the stupid move of opening up my downpipe when I went to the track, so of course that added to my car being slow as balls off the line.

My best time was:

60': 2.852
330: 7.103
1/8: 10.373
MPH: 74.19
1/4: 15.690
MPH: 94.78


I need to get that 60' down some obviously. What would you guys recommend I do? Obviously the first answer should be a high stall torque converter, but is there anything else I can do besides that to get my 60' times down? The cams killed my low end =( Obviously reconnect the DP....But what else can you recommend to get this fat bi*** moving from a dig? Thanks

 

[Jst4Cyl]

WTF 2.8 60 ft'er???

Are you brake boosting it off the line? If so there is more of an issue than a stall converter...

Have you did a boost leak test after the install off the TB and turbo? How much boost are you running?

 

[mini zilo]

Well, like I said, the 2.8 probably is all due to the cams and open dp.

 

[Jst4Cyl]

Well, like I said, the 2.8 probably is all due to the cams and open dp.

I think your problems are else where as I said above.....

Have you boost leak tested the current setup?

How much boost are you running?

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

FYI...

If you're going to tune with the SAFC, do not get 660's. You'll have a heck of a time trying to tune that thing. You have to keep in mind that by using the SAFC, you are tricking the ecu. You're going to end up pulling too much timing, and have a lot more headaches. I would recommend just going with 550's as they should be big enough for your setup and more managable with the SAFC. If you still want the bigger injectors, you may want to consider getting your ecu socketed and chipped to compensate. And if you get the 255 pump, make sure you have a good FPR.

 

[Indyxc]

To get the car moving from a stop the best option with the auto is the brake torque it.

But really, you need to step back and do some research onto how to mod the car. Your doing this EXACTLY backwards, and hence running almost 16s, when the car was probably faster stock.

You've invested in all the big "power" mods but have no supporting mods. You should really do some reading...

 

[mini zilo]

To get the car moving from a stop the best option with the auto is the brake torque it.

But really, you need to step back and do some research onto how to mod the car. Your doing this EXACTLY backwards, and hence running almost 16s, when the car was probably faster stock.

You've invested in all the big "power" mods but have no supporting mods. You should really do some reading...

No YOU should do some reading. Re-READ what I said in the original post. I said that I was at part throttle the whole way because of boost creep, so I wasn't expecting good times. I just wanted to know what else I could do to get it moving from a dig.

 

[SlipGear]

Wow

 

[turbodsm18]

Pull the turbo, port it, port the o2 housing and throw it back on. Its gonna be worthless if you are going down the track at part throttle.

Off the line, hit the brakes, hit the gas to a point were the car starts to almost pull itself then mash the gas at green.

I ran a 15.01 on a bone stock GS-T. It was a 5 speed with a 2.1 60 ft. You should be a little quicker than that.

 

[turbodsm18]

Pull the turbo, port it, port the o2 housing and throw it back on. Its gonna be worthless if you are going down the track at part throttle.

Off the line, hit the brakes, hit the gas to a point were the car starts to almost pull itself then mash the gas at green.

I ran a 15.01 on a bone stock GS-T. It was a 5 speed with a 2.1 60 ft. You should be a little quicker than that.

Edit: How much boost are you running?

 

[Indyxc]

No YOU should do some reading. Re-READ what I said in the original post. I said that I was at part throttle the whole way because of boost creep, so I wasn't expecting good times. I just wanted to know what else I could do to get it moving from a dig.

You were at part throttle, because the car isn't properly modded, plain and simple. Cams and a stock fuel system are the most obvious indication.

If you had done the proper mods, you wouldn't have issues, because A you wouldn't have boost creep, and B even if you did, EVO 16G boost creep can be accounted for with the proper fuel systems.

Case in point my car. I run a properly setup Evo 3 16g. I can run 12 psi no creep, or as I currently run 23 psi with no knock on pumpgas flowing about 35-37 lb/min.

I'm not trying to be harsh, but to make power, you need parts that don't directly add to power, such as: afpr, fuel pump, DSMlink (much better than afc), injectors, etc.

As for launching the car are you brake torquing it of the line? What's your launch procedure?

 

[forcefed 95]

Also i dont get how your dp being off mad you slower. With your dp off that should helped your turbo spool faster due to les restriction. Which i am willing to bet helped play a big roll in your creep problem(im not saying that with your dp on it will cure creep but it will slow it down)

 

[mini zilo]

Also i dont get how your dp being off mad you slower. With your dp off that should helped your turbo spool faster due to les restriction. Which i am willing to bet helped play a big roll in your creep problem(im not saying that with your dp on it will cure creep but it will slow it down)

Wow........... by removing the downpipe you gain horsepower and you will loose some low end

 

[kmoore]

I guess I'm just a little confused as to why you posted a question, knowing what your issues are with your setup (stock fuel setup, creeping issues, etc.). I would have gotten those those things cleared away before even seeing a track, because without your current problems taken care of it just seems like a waste of time/money.

But I guess your question was on launching techniques. What RPM did you launch at? And you did go AROUND the water box right? Was this your first time at the track? Seeing how you are Automatic and AWD it is kind of difficult for me being how I am the exact opposite (5spd and FWD)

Just a little FYI my very first time at the track I ran:

60': 2.4
1/4: 15.4
MPH: 97

Basically stock.

 

[Indyxc]

Wow........... by removing the downpipe you gain horsepower and you will loose some low end

But usually causes boost creep due to less restriction on the exhaust side.......

 

[zimus]

You were at part throttle, because the car isn't properly modded, plain and simple. Cams and a stock fuel system are the most obvious indication.

If you had done the proper mods, you wouldn't have issues, because A you wouldn't have boost creep, and B even if you did, EVO 16G boost creep can be accounted for with the proper fuel systems.

Case in point my car. I run a properly setup Evo 3 16g. I can run 12 psi no creep, or as I currently run 23 psi with no knock on pumpgas flowing about 35-37 lb/min.

I'm not trying to be harsh, but to make power, you need parts that don't directly add to power, such as: afpr, fuel pump, DSMlink (much better than afc), injectors, etc.

As for launching the car are you brake torquing it of the line? What's your launch procedure?

im with this. you need fuel mods, you cant just slap a bigger turbo on and think your going to do any good. i run almost same setup but with a maf translater and 680 in jectors 190 walbro and sx fuel regulater with 6an lines and could run 12s allday

 

[mini zilo]

You guys aren't helping any... I said I have fuel mods I am going to put in... I just wanted better info on launching it

 

[kmoore]

You guys aren't helping any... I said I have fuel mods I am going to put in... I just wanted better info on launching it

and I tryed to help

 

[luvmygst]

You guys aren't helping any... I said I have fuel mods I am going to put in... I just wanted better info on launching it

You could start by answering the question "how re you leaving the line????" ITs been asked a couple of times. You need to do as stated above hold the brake and feed it as much gas as you can to build some boost, with a stock converter its not going to build a whole lot but at least the turbo will be moving as spool faster when you let off the brake. Are you just mashing the gas when the light goes green?
Just for reference I ran a 8.9 1/8th with a 2.2 60 ft on a basically stock gst, nothing but a 14b and exhaust. My 91 awd runs 8.7 1/8ths and its bone stock exhaust and all.(boost turned up and race gas though)

 

[97gstjosh]

Theres really no other way to launch an auto then stated ^^^^. Once you get the fuel parts in it will help alot. I havent taken mine to the track yet so I cant say my car would be any faster but I have a EvoIII 16G ported, evoIII O2 housing Ported, 190 fuel pump rewired, 680cc injectors, DSMLink, aeromotive FPR(preference) and I have no problems at all getting up to speed except being FWD Its not so bad