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water injection, lets hear it...

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i have the spearco kit it works fine with b16g and alamo side mount, went from best of 13.21 @ 103 to 12.84@106 and i blew my tranny on that run and let out with about 100 feet left in quarter mile. i don't have a logger yet so i don't know how the timing is doing.
 
im running 16 psi on 91 octane right now
well inbetween warmer days i am, damn fuel cut
i have the WI kit on my car
.8 jet
100 psi pump
at 16 psi with tempd around 50 degrees i do not get any toe in knock or high rpm knock
im running around 25 degrees of total advance at wot

now compritivly speaking. my car versus my girls car
stock boost {bcs mod}
13g
hacked mas k&n
her car toe in knocks like crazy, takes a very very long time for it to fully advance to a whopping 18 degrees.

the water injection kits do work. if you get the right ones
you do not gain any power what so ever from spraying it into the motor
the power you get is from the timing and ability to run higher boost.

i like my wi kit
 
that sucks that the spearco kit isnt that good... what should i do, build my own, i need a real good guide i really dont want to mess somthing up, can some one take pics of thier homemade setup and give a brief desciption of the parts they used and where they conneceted them

also some links on where to get them cheap, and an estimate of what it cost you total...

thanks alot :dsm:
 
My constructive thoughts on water injection:

it DOSNT add horsepower or torque at all.

its increases your safety buffer from knock and detonation. It allows you to crank the boost 2-3 PSI up and have your timing advance a bit more without any problems. thats where the gain comes from.

Water injection is a very good thing to do in turbo cars as it should slightly lower EGTs overall. Your EGT guage will still read rougly the same when you spray because youve got superheated steam coming out of the chamber and cooling down out of the head. it will clean carbon buildup out of your combustion chamber (will stop dieseling effect in caburated cars...).

Just some brain candy: propane injection in gas cars.. why spend your money on water injection when you could spend alittle bit more for far better results?
 
One of my best friends works for Brad at http://www.kcsaab.com/ they are the number 1 aquamist dealer in the country! I have done allot of group buys for aquamist on the Internet. If you guys want I can talk with my friend and talk to Brad and see if he wants to do another group buy! I currently know that the only Aquamist kit than will work with our DSM's are the 1S kits. They use boost to activate the water. They work well but cant really be tuned to well. The reason the 1s is the only kit that works in our cars is that we use low impedance fuel injectors, Aquamist has just invented an injector amplifier, This means that we can use the 2s and the 2c. With the 2s, you can tune the water to spray with your injector duty cycle. I will try to explain this a little better. The 1s kit sprays a set amount of water as soon as you hit boost. And it doesn’t change the amount of water that is being sprayer throughout the RPM range, this means at 5psi you are going to run rich and at 15 psi you are going to run perfect. (just an example) The problem is that at the lower RPM/ boost range the Aquamist doesn’t have the ability to control the amount of water that is being used. So this means that you will not reach your full potential throughout the RPM/boost range. The 2s use’s the pulse from the injectors to spray the perfect amount of water at any given RPM/boost through the entire RPM range. This means you will no longer run rich at lower boost and RPM. Hope this helps a little


TWITCH
www.intercoolertechniques.com
 
would be nice if you could use a nitros tank and put propane in, hehe.. fool them ricers.

this looks rather promising as well, the question is what if you add to much propane?

and would you have to turn the system off evey time you parked the car, that would suck
 
well there is a hobbs switch so unless you are boosting in park, you are not getting nitrous.
the lines are not pressurized.
no need to purge them.
if you add to much then you will be rich. like in the upper 9's possible (9:1 afr)

that is why a wideband o2 reading is great.
however a stock afr will alert you to a rich condition.
just subtract more propane if necessary.
another good kit is the jay carter kitl his has a nice in cab control box.

http://www.onlygoodstuff.com/product.asp?intProdID=51
 


I was under the impression that the 1S was adujstable to deliver water at a user selectable boost pressure 3-30psi, sure you wouldnt get water through the full boost/rpm range, but you really wouldnt even need it untill over 10psi. and if your going to dubble that, then you will want an S-AFC anyway and that will take care of your running ritch situation.

how much could you get the 1S for from your friend?
 
The GM Maf translator is supposed to have something on it that can tune for nitrous or water/alcoy injection. I haven't got mine yet, its still in the mail. e-mail ramchargers.com about it.

It has WOT adjustments and a WOT2 switch is activated when the nos/alcoy is activated and swicthes to a different fuel trim ( leaner for alcoy/ fatter for nitrous ). It sounds pretty good, just another extra on already great deal.

I also like the injector pulse monitor ( making the water spray with injector pulse ) idea. I'd like more info on it though.
 
Originally posted by ttawd3s
The GM Maf translator is supposed to have something on it that can tune for nitrous or water/alcoy injection. I haven't got mine yet, its still in the mail. e-mail ramchargers.com about it.

It has WOT adjustments and a WOT2 switch is activated when the nos/alcoy is activated and swicthes to a different fuel trim ( leaner for alcoy/ fatter for nitrous ). It sounds pretty good, just another extra on already great deal.

I also like the injector pulse monitor ( making the water spray with injector pulse ) idea. I'd like more info on it though.
[/QUOTE



what other info would you like?
 
There are quite a number of propane threads already.

For the record I run both WI and propane (Jay's kit) .. upped the boost from 11 PSI (knocking) to 18 PSI. I would say there are some gains from doing that :)
 
Originally posted by -=TWITCH=-
aquamist rules!

Agreed 110%!

With WI you get what you pay for. Get a quality WRC inspired system like Aquamist and do good, build a home depot special and you roll the dice.

I ran the Aquamist unit with a .7mm jet on my Nissan SE-R's stock motor and was able to run 24.5psi with a LARGE T3/T4 on 9.5:1 compression and made 409whp. (Would have made more but I was soooo far out of injector)

I beat that car for 50,000 miles with NO problems, the plugs came out perfect and the motor lived a long happy life until a rumple strip at the road course smashed the oil pan and starved it for oil. :cry:
 
Originally posted by -=TWITCH=-
The reason the 1s is the only kit that works in our cars is that we use low impedance fuel injectors,

I don't understand what you mean? What does the injectors have to do with the AQ system? It's a totally self contained system.

And it doesn’t change the amount of water that is being sprayer throughout the RPM range, this means at 5psi you are going to run rich and at 15 psi you are going to run perfect.

By rich I assume you mean rich on the water side and not fuel. My A/F was spot on with the non water runs dumping the water at about 3,500rpm and 8psi up to 20+psi and 8,000rpm.

The A/F sniffer didn't care how much water was dumped, it didn't change the A/F ratio. (Granted within reason, the largest jet I had was a 1mm which is PLENTY for a 2.0 liter car)
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
methanol and DEionized water (water that has had all of the ions removed, same thing as you are supposed to use in the radiator, although no one does including me) is becoming pretty popular.

Actually its DISTILLED water you use in your radiator. It has the MINERALS removed not the ions. You should use it in your radiator or you will have calcium and mineral build up on the flow tubes. eventually an older radiator will clog up and become inefficient.
 
Okaaayyy. Good one.

And I thought up a great response to that girl that ripped on me in high school. 15 years ago. :D :D
 
Originally posted by TalonBlitz00
Actually its DISTILLED water you use in your radiator. It has the MINERALS removed not the ions. You should use it in your radiator or you will have calcium and mineral build up on the flow tubes. eventually an older radiator will clog up and become inefficient.

Distilled water is usually deionized first because it is cheaper to deionize and saves the distilling equipment.
 
i put it on a bone stock 1g i had, same 60 foot both runs, one with water inj, one without. the water inj took .3 off my 1/4 time and 2 mph on trap
 
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