Wastegate arm issues

[Kevindouglas89]

Hey guys, thanks for looking. Lets hope I dont seem crazy here :X

If my wastegate actuator arm is clipped on, I build boost. When i start to gain rpm's, my car wants to shift to a new gear, but the boost is not being released, so it causes my car to shake like crazy untill the arm falls off, and opens the valve. I know there is supposed to be a clip keeping the arm on, but im afraid my turbo will blow up because im not releasing any boost, its just staying there. With the arm not on, the valve is always open, but the boost that i build just goes straight down the exhaust without hitting my turbo. I can move the lever back and forth fine to open and close the valve, so it doesnt seem sticky.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[viperlp01]

Research how a wastegate works. It needs a vaccum source to work properly and it sounds like it has no vaccum source to open it up.

 

[1997_GSX]

do you have an automatic?

 

[Kevindouglas89]

Viper, i will look into it.

Yes, it is an automatic. Leadin me somewhere?

 

[90moneypit]

Some people mistakenly believe that you don't need to release pressure between shifts on an automatic transmission. So, he thinks that either you or a previous owner pulled the vacuum line on the wastegate to lessen turbo lag. If the vacuum line is still attached to the wastegate actuator, you have a bad wastegate actuator and you'll need to replace it along with the cotter key that holds the arm onto the wastegate arm.

 

[Kevindouglas89]

Well, im strapped for cash at the moment. Would i be able to get a good one from a junkyard for the time being, or would that not be smart?

 

[90moneypit]

Well, im strapped for cash at the moment. Would i be able to get a good one from a junkyard for the time being, or would that not be smart?

Sorry for the delay in replying but... get a good what from the junkyard? Vacuum line, cotter key, or wastegate actuator? I'd try replacing the vacuum line first and it may run you around $1/ft at worst at most parts stores. Cotter key, in a pinch you could rig something up temporarily with solid wire, even a paper clip would work for a little while until you can afford the $2 for a replacement... As far as the actuator itself, test yours first to see if it's working (gently apply psi until it starts bleeding off) before buying a new/used one.

 

[Kevindouglas89]

Well heres the thing. The key apparently broke off inside the nipple. I JB welded a washed to the end of the nipple. Im starting to think that my car problems have to do with my blow off valve. Someone mentioned it to me, but i didnt think much of it. Now im thinking its slipping, and not always releasing boost when it should, which in turn, is causing my car to freak out when it doesn't. This possible?

 

[90moneypit]

I suggest you do a boost leak check and then check every last vacuum line to make sure it's going where it's supposed to be as well as being intact (no holes).

I don't understand why you would JB weld a washer instead of using a small finishing nail to remove the broken part of the key. You just did the equivalent of welding your wheel to the hub when you weren't sure if you needed to replace the tire!

For future reference, never make something that has a removable component permanently attached. There was a reason they used a cotter key vs a nut and bolt.