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was it worth buying my 1g for 1600

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fwd4g63tsi

10+ Year Contributor
86
0
Jan 23, 2010
hazlet, New Jersey
i just bought a stock 1g talon fwd tsi for $1600 it might need new rings or valve seal but runs realy good turbo has no shaft play im new to dsms so i wana know if it was worlth it and how much hp can a strock rebuilt motor hold

heres a pic
 

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I think that you got a good deal. I'm paying 1200 for mine and I need to change 2 valves in it but it is well worth it to me. I had one about 10 years ago and loved the dam thing. I can't wait to start playing and building mine.
 
a little bit of bluish smoke at idle it gets alil worse with more rpms and if i hit boost then push in the clutch and come to a stop it smokes even more for about 45 secs to a min

does anyone have any expiriance with the frankinstien motor from dsm graveyard
 
looks pretty clean, if it needs rings it that price might have been a bit steep for a stock fwd 1g, but it is a nice car. The stock 6 bolt block can handle quite a bit of power, there is a guy that lives around me that is pushin around 450hp, and there are other people that are doin more. GL
 
Do a compression test on all cyl. then go back and do it again with a couple of squirts of oil in each cyl. if the comp. is low to start ,and the second test is higher after adding oil then you need new rings.
 
do i put the oil into the sparkplug holes and if so how much oil i did a compression test dry and it came out 100 across the board wich i heard would leave me with no power but it has alot of power
 
do i put the oil into the sparkplug holes and if so how much oil i did a compression test dry and it came out 100 across the board wich i heard would leave me with no power but it has alot of power

Take the cap off of a quart, and i use about 2 caps to make sure you have enough but not so much you foul the plugs when you put it back together. 100 on the comp is low. just my 02. By the way i think you got a nice deal on your sled man. and yes you put the oil down the plug holes
 
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Ditch the narrowband AFR gauge. That MBC doesn't look like it's hooked up correctly either.

If the body is clean you got a good deal.

I paid $2700 for mine that I pretty much had to revive from the dead.
 
I paid 1600 for my 1990 TSI AWD, in great running condition. 6 years later and it's still doing great, only things I've had to change were the ECU, clutch, and coil. :hellyeah: But, your exterior looks much nicer. The body on mine is straight, but the paint sucks.

I also just picked up a VERY CLEAN 1990 GSX for $700. Timing belt broke and bent some valves, but it only has 125k miles and the interior and exterior are almost flawless.
 
i paid $1600 for my GSX, but urs looks better exterior wise and mine looks a lil better under the hood. Still not taht bad though. Is this car gonna be your DD or project car.
 
Not too bad of a price. Especially, if it runs good.

I noticed that your bov is not recirculated. Does the car stall when you push in the clutch? Replacing the bov with a stock one and connecting a hose from it to the intake pipe is the proper way to do it.
 
The 2g MAF still needs to be recirculated + you'll need an SAFC or be able to chip your ecu and change the code to do so. Chances are real good that it's your valve guide seals that are fried as opposed to the rings. IMO if you're going rebuild then I'd go with the eagle rod/ weisco piston combo. They're pretty cheap and tough as nails. They're a lot more forgiving if you're going to start learning how to tune. The stock pistons like to frag the ring lands under decent boost and even a little pre-det.
 
I think the valve seals can be changed with the head on the car if you have the proper tool. The price is about 200 for the tool, but it's worth it considering you dont need to pull the head off, and you dont need to pay a machine shop for the labor of changing all the seals.


You need to put something soft into the cylinder (like a piece of rope) and turn the engine so the piston you're working on is at the top, this way the valves dont drop into the cylinder when you remove everything.

I think there is a vfaq on how to change them... let me check.

Here it is:
Valvespring compressors
 
Call me stupid but I payed 5k for mine and threw alot into it cause I was stupid and wanted a dsm very desperatly and turned out it was all ####ed up and spent the next year fixing everything......my car is a whore!!! 1600 well spent but the bov and the mbc look very ghetto how they are set up!! Get a fmic and new pipe so it doesnt look jank as ####!! I like it!!
 
Id rather that be the problem then, is there any definate way to test if its that

The "wet" compression test should tell you. If the oil in the cylinder doesn't significantly increase compression (it will make it go up a little bit no matter what) then it is probably your valve seals.

Does the car make blue smoke while you're driving? Does it have a puff of blue smoke when first started up but then goes away for the most part?

Constant smoking is usually rings, smoke at startup is usually valve guides. This isn't necessarily the rule, but it is what I have experienced in the past.
 
Theres alittle puff of blue smoke wen i start it, after the car warms up, and its idling theres no smoke but wen i accelerate theres some smoke, after i hit boost then come to a stop it smokes alot for about 1 minute
 
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