want to run 20 psi daily/reliably all help appreciated

[viprez586]

Like posted before, you should get a AFPR for the walbro 255, this is causing you to run pretty rich.

An alternative for us non-eprom guys, is to indeed send out your non-eprom to get converted to an eprom from ecmtuning.com
I think i got mine for around $200-225 which is typically what you would pay for an original EPROM ecu that hasn't been tested or even in the hands of such awesome professionals. Well worth the down-time and cost IMHO.
Now you can opt to burn your own eprom chip(extensive but easy once you get the hang of it), or go with a chip from dsmchips.com - Jeff is extremely knowledgeable and helpful getting a chip for you that will work great and provide you with minimal adjustments on the SAFC.
My mods are in my profile, but just to give you an idea i will be running an Evo3 16G, 750cc injectors, DSMchip by Jeff, with the SAFC, AEM UEGO, and datalogger as my tuning devices.
This will get me to about 20psi safely, while i can still test the waters without worrying about high IDCs and possibly be able to play with a slight E85 mixture.

 

[1990talontsi]

thanx man ^^ im gonna be asking jeff some questions

 

[1bad92awd]

All the advice given on this thread seems good. But wouldnt it make a little more sense to talk horsepower numbers or track times rather than psi? Maybe its just me but in my mind, if I knew what you wanted your car to run when you take it to the track or what kind of numbers you would like to see on the dyno, I could offer some better advice.

 

[viprez586]

All the advice given on this thread seems good. But wouldnt it make a little more sense to talk horsepower numbers or track times rather than psi? Maybe its just me but in my mind, if I knew what you wanted your car to run when you take it to the track or what kind of numbers you would like to see on the dyno, I could offer some better advice.

There is no "bench-racing", "How much HP will i make" threads, or any of that B.S.

We give him information that will get him close to where he wants to be.

HP + track times have SO many variables that it is unrealistic and unpractical to guess or approximate what numbers a certain ones car will produce.

Example: Dyno Depending on the tune - How much knock, timing advance, tuning software, AFR, Octane/E85? etc. will have a big impact on what you will put out on the dyno.
Track How do you know he'll get a good launch?, miss 2nd?, track temp? Tires? Ambient air temp?.......when you start to think about it, there is XXX variables.

Hope that explains why no one gives out guestimations on these figures and why the community prefers not to do it.

 

[twicks69]

I would run a 2G MAF and a set of 560cc injectors. Also, hardwire the fuel pump properly. If you don't know how to, do a search, or go to VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions.

I hope you are going to be running 93 octane or better gas at all times.


I run 22psi on my winter beater GVR4 all year round with a good tune on a very simple setup consisting of:

NGK BR7ES plugs
Decent plug wires or COP setup
3" exhaust
16G turbo
2G MAF with 1G to 2G plug adapter
Walbro 255HP hard wired fuel pump in-tank
560cc Evo injectors
S-AFC
Install a proper catch can on the valve cover so you are not recirculating the oil back into your turbo inlet directly. Instead have a return line at the top of the catch can (un-vented catch can) that returns to the intake pipe. This way you can maintain good vacuum pressure while catching any blowby that would otherwise end up in the intake pipe and going through the turbo. Have a drain valve on the bottom so you can regularly empty it out.
A good alternator that always puts out 14V+
Stock IC w/ HKS SSQV BOV
Modified intake pipe for 2G MAF setup. In your cicumstance, purchase the Forced Performance cast aluminum intake pipe with the proper reducing silicone coupler, and a 4" coupler to attach a 2G MAF, and a K$N cone filter from FP. Be sure to recirculate your BOV if possible; it will make the car run a bit better on decel and idle.


That is the majority of it. Haven't had a problem since.

Also, torque your head studs to 86 ft/lbs. If you haven't checked their torque lately, I would suggest re-torquing them per torque sequence outlined in the mechanics manual. Be sure to use as few socket extensions as possible. Essentially a 1/2" drive torque wrench with a deep socket and a 1" extension is all you need. If anything, do not use extensions as it will skew the actual torque number.

Just remember, putting any setup at the ragged edge will not be reliable. I would suggest running a bit less boost, or getting a better tuning management software, along with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and larger fuel injectors to reduce duty cycles (680cc).


Good luck.

Oh did I mention??? GO AND PAY FOR IT TO BE DYNO-TUNED. It will be the difference between sucking or breaking, and having a reliable car. Don't slack on vehicle maintenence either.


I also forgot to ask...what elevation are you at? This will play a factor in the actual tune, efficiency, and fuel requirements.

 

[toofast82]

I would run a 2G MAF and a set of 560cc injectors. Also, hardwire the fuel pump properly. If you don't know how to, do a search, or go to VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions.

I hope you are going to be running 93 octane or better gas at all times.


I run 22psi on my winter beater GVR4 all year round with a good tune on a very simple setup consisting of:

NGK BR7ES plugs
Decent plug wires or COP setup
3" exhaust
16G turbo
2G MAF with 1G to 2G plug adapter
Walbro 255HP hard wired fuel pump in-tank
560cc Evo injectors

That is the majority of it. Haven't had a problem since.
.

What are you tuning it with? Are you just using 2gmaf/560cc combo?

 

[twicks69]

What are you tuning it with? Are you just using 2gmaf/560cc combo?

2G MAF, 560cc injectors, Walbro 255HP hard-wired with good ole S-AFC.