The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Troubleshooting 1G horns

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MILITISINVICTUS

15+ Year Contributor
125
2
Oct 17, 2005
Beer, Maryland
My 1G's horns aren't sounding. I have taken the wheel assembly apart and cleaned up the contact points, while also checking wiring integrity. Looks good.

I have verified that one of horns won't go off when directly powered by the battery, the other does. I'd like to just have the working horn do the job, bypassing the other. Do you figure that both horns need to be plugged in to complete the circuit, or is each horn independently powered?

Anyone who's had to goof around with their 1G horns, please provide some insight.
 
Here is my method for diagnosing horns.

Get an ohmmeter and place the negative cable on the negative terminal in the wiring harness that connects to the horn; also connect the positive cable to the positive terminal on the harness.
When pressing the horn button, you should register current traveling through the harness. If you don't, then your problem is between the horn button and the wiring harness. If there is current, then the problem lies with your horn itself.

On my car, the horn back on the firewall was not getting power, however, the horn itself was not broke; and the horn up by the bumper was getting power, however, the horn itself was broken. A quick trip to the local Autozone and $5 later, I had a functional horn and was able to pass inspections.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top