tough decision need some advice !!

[dwc4g63]

Ok, I've been working on my car for almost 2 years now and I'm finally ready to get it running it only needs one more thing.....the timing belt. And quite frankly I'm scared to do it. I've done it 3 times before. Good to go twice, but the third time i forgot to tighten down the cam caps (don't ask) and raped 12 of 16 valves with the turn of a key. As you all know satan wants a rediculous amount of money and the local mechanic that I kinda know wants $450.00 plus towing is still like $100.00. So now im really comtimplating doing it myself. I have 5 days off and a warm garage. I already replaced the water pump, oil pump, pulleys, tensioner as well as removing balance shafts and ac. I'm just terified of turning the key and hearing that horrible sound of 16 valves dying again.. So what is your guys opinion? Am I putting the p#ssy on a pedastole here? Worth it to pay satan and the tow trucks to do it right, or should I man up and show my car whos the boss? I am also very familiar with the VFAQ and all that I'm just trying to learn from someone elses past experiences good or bad. thanks

That $600 bucks sure would buy a nice new turbo....

 

[luv2rallye]

Well before you turn the key you should remove the spark plugs and turn the main pulley clockwise by hand a couple turns to check for valve interference. Here's some tips you can also look at: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214625.

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

I agree. Even now, when I replace a timing belt, I crank the engine by hand for 6 revolutions to check 2 things. First I want to check to make sure the marks come back to exact alignment. Second I want to check that the auto tensioner hasn't moved out taking up slack that should not exist at this point.

Oh, and lastly, if something has went wrong I don't run the risk of bending the valves with the starter.

It's a mistake easily made.

If you replace all the consumable parts and do it exactly as we have told you, there should be 60k of driving before you have to do it again.

Keep us posted and let us know if things aren't going right. Just be careful.

Good Luck

 

[dwc4g63]

noob question but how exactly do you check for valve interference? Take the plugs out turn it by hand, but what am I looking/listening for exactly? Also I understand your method of putting torque on the tensioner using the pliers, but if you can get the gap to the right specs(drill bit) without putting that amount of pressure(24 in/lbs) on the tensioner is it still neccessary to torque it ?

 

[Marc91GSX]

noob question but how exactly do you check for valve interference? Take the plugs out turn it by hand, but what am I looking/listening for exactly? Also I understand your method of putting torque on the tensioner using the pliers, but if you can get the gap to the right specs(drill bit) without putting that amount of pressure(24 in/lbs) on the tensioner is it still neccessary to torque it ?

Pretty much you should be able to turn the engine over easily by hand with the plugs out. If you get stopped and have to exert alot of force then something is wrong and you should stop turning the engine over.

My engine can be turned over with stubby 1/2" drive with the plugs out but with the plugs in it takes a 3' long breaker bar to do it.

PS if it is hard to turn over with the plugs out then pull the belt off and rotate the cams to see if you can turn the engine over some more. If you can the you had the belt out, if you can't then you will need to double check that you everything assembled correctly.

 

[luv2rallye]

Also I understand your method of putting torque on the tensioner using the pliers, but if you can get the gap to the right specs(drill bit) without putting that amount of pressure(24 in/lbs) on the tensioner is it still neccessary to torque it ?

No. Torqueing it is a way to get the belt tensioned in the ballpark so you can then rotate the crank 6 times and then let it (tensioner piston and belt) settle for 15 minutes. As long as the belt is tight enough for settling time, the actual torque doesn't matter since you are going to re-adjust it again during the final check. The final check is then done with either the drill bit method or making the auto tensioner holding pin (eg. 1/16” allen wrench) move freely all the way through the auto tensioner body and pin holes. Adjust the tensioner pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (drill bit measurement) be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I usually then turn the crankshaft 6 more times and wait couple minutes and recheck again.

 

[dwc4g63]

Ok, so I went to slowboy and just bought new pulleys and a cover as well, so now EVERYTHING in there is brand spankin new. Took a few times to get it close but I followed the VFAQ and yins help to a tee, every mark is right on the money, tensioner is in spec (pin pulls in and out of tensioner) and I turned it over 6 times made strange noise at first but i figured out it was just the vasoline in the oil pump sucking through, and with the spark plugs out and a 1/2 ratchet i can spin it with one hand easily, when spinning should it take the same amount of effort the whole rotation or does it get slightly harder at a point? everything lined up again, spun it 6 more times waited a half hour...everything is still lined up perfectly, the pin DOES slide the WHOLE way through the tensioner althogh not as easily as before, I'm not saying you have to make an effort to get it in, just not as smooth as the first time. And i stuck a 5/32 drill bit in there (closest i have) i think its 3.9 mil conversion(help if im wrong) and it has the absolute slightest clearence to move. So is it time to bolt everything back up and give it go or does something sound out of whack?

things im woried about:
1. slightly harder to spin crank at certain points with 1/2 ratchet and plugs out
2. gap in between tensioner (pin goes in whole way, does that mean its good?)

PS EDIT. i just checked again and it looks like there is a tiny bit of moisture on the top of the tensioner around the plunger not alot just a little , this is a brand new tensioner from mitsu..is this normal or did i just find a big problem?

 

[luv2rallye]

things im woried about:
1. slightly harder to spin crank at certain points with 1/2 ratchet and plugs out
2. gap in between tensioner (pin goes in whole way, does that mean its good?)

PS EDIT. i just checked again and it looks like there is a tiny bit of moisture on the top of the tensioner around the plunger not alot just a little , this is a brand new tensioner from mitsu..is this normal or did i just find a big problem?

#1) ok - normal
#2) yes if your putting pin through hole in the body of the tensioner near it's top.
PS EDIT) You just found a big problem if you compressed the tensioner too fast (seals get blown). If you compressed it in a vise to put the holding pin in (eg. 1/16” allen wrench), compress it VERY, VERY, VERY slowly (like steps of: 1/2 turn of vise handle, then wait 20 seconds for it to settle, repeat) or you will damage the seals in the new one. If seals are damaged, kiss goodbye your new timing belt and more valves.

 

[dwc4g63]

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Just finished a rebuild and timing the car,turn it over to prime it and get nothing wont even spin. Take out starter tests fine, stick it back in hold key for like 5 seconds and it starts to spin, so now it turns at least. Something is not right though, Starter makes whining noise, all the lights start pulsating on and off while you try to start it, and the most disturbing thing is this loud sqeauking noise that I cant figure out what it is somewhere under the hood is all i know? The timing is still right on the money, and I can spin the crank by hand with a 1/2 ratchet,not easily but its doable, the battery is fully charged and Ive been using a charger set on engine start to help. Anyone have any clue what this sounds like and what the loud squeaking may be? I havnt tested for fuel or spark yet cause I want to figure out what that noise and starter trouble may be before I do start it up and blow it all.