TMO Clutch Cut Wire for Stutterbox

[SummitAWD]

Does anyone know where I can get a clutch cut wire for a stutterbox? A friend of mine says I can probably use any kind of zener diode wire, like from radioshack. Any suggestions?

Thanks alot

 

[slickster]

If you dont care about having the clutch safety switch working then just use a straight wire from the clutch to the ecu pin.

 

[logic]

From the fine folks at Club DSM Colorado: http://co.dsm.org/tech/TMO-clutchwire.jpg

That's basically it. Hit up Radio Shack, pick up a diode, and solder it up yourself. This is truly one of the easiest things you can do. Just hand-wrap the wiring rather than soldering it for your testing; trust me, you'll hook up the wiring wrong at least once or twice. When you're happy with it, solder everything down and call it a day.

 

[SummitAWD]

Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you!!

 

[91turboTSi]

I have the tmo stutterbox wire, but dont want to have to push in the clutch to start the car. So could I just run a straight wire from the green clutch switch wire to the ecu? Thanks!

 

[ITSME4G63]

I have the tmo stutterbox wire, but dont want to have to push in the clutch to start the car. So could I just run a straight wire from the green clutch switch wire to the ecu? Thanks!

I would also like to know this since I am in the same situation, thanks.

 

[steve]

Yes, if your dumping the safety function then a straight wire from the green wire side of the connector (after you cut the wire) to the ECU pin 104 (1g) will do the job. It's when both are hookled up that you need a blocking diode.

I would have guessed the TMO setup used two blocking diodes (one for each signal) but I'd never seen one. Regular 1N4001 rectifier diode should be fine and again I would have guessed that the diode cathode (banded end) would have gone to the connector side since it's ground. That's the reverse of what the picture shows.

I guess I'll have to go stick the 3stage stutterbox code in my ECU and hook one up to my car to make sure.

Steve

 

[steve]

I finished my testing and that picture has the diode marked backwards.

The cathode (the banded end) connects to the switch side of the green wire and the anode to the starter relay side.
I first tried using two diodes and that works like I suspected but the critical diode is the one in the starter relay circuit. The reason being that way back at the ignition switch, where the starter safety circuit begins before going to the coil of the starter relay and then to the clutch switch, the signal gets grounded when the ignition switch isn't in the START position.

Without the blocking diode the ECU park/neutral signal gets pulled down by the clutch switch when the clutch is out and by the ignition switch when the clutch is in. The blocking diode keeps the ignition switch from pulling the ECU signal to ground so the ECU can see the status of the clutch switch.

Steve

 

[ITSME4G63]

I finished my testing and that picture has the diode marked backwards.

The cathode (the banded end) connects to the switch side of the green wire and the anode to the starter relay side.
I first tried using two diodes and that works like I suspected but the critical diode is the one in the starter relay circuit. The reason being that way back at the ignition switch, where the starter safety circuit begins before going to the coil of the starter relay and then to the clutch switch, the signal gets grounded when the ignition switch isn't in the START position.

Without the blocking diode the ECU park/neutral signal gets pulled down by the clutch switch when the clutch is out and by the ignition switch when the clutch is in. The blocking diode keeps the ignition switch from pulling the ECU signal to ground so the ECU can see the status of the clutch switch.

Steve

THa masta of techincal jargon