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Tips for Viper Security System Install

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DSM4me44

15+ Year Contributor
752
1
Jul 2, 2004
Medina, Ohio
I recently purchased a Viper 5901. It is a 2 way security system + remote start.

Viper - Viper 5901 Responder LC3 SuperCode SST 2-Way Security and Remote Start System

I read through just about every car alarm thread on tuners and most are vague or have links that are out dated and no longer work.

I figure if I can do a auto to 5 speed conversion, wire an safc, turbo timer, etc. then I could attempt a security system install.

I am hoping this thread will be a great reference for anyone on tuners who is looking to put this or any similar system in and do not want to pay for the labor costs.


Please post and tips, tricks or helpful links.

There was a couple questions I have....

1. I have an Apexi turbo timer wired in with the harness. How does the remote start installation differ with that being installed?

2. The car is a manual with a non working clutch switch (due to the auto to 5 speed swap). There are wires still attached to the clucth switch.....could i use there to wire in for the remote start and be ok?
 
-go according to the wiring diagram, but I strongly suggest using either a multimeter or better yet a powerprobe to make sure you have the right wires. test every wire before hooking anything up.

-being that it's a directed remote start, its most likely default to manual transmission. I'm not familiar with this particular unit, but most of theirs just have a toggle switch included and a neutral safety wire. one side of the switch goes to ground, and the other side to the neutral safety wire.

tips of my own:

-make sure you switch the pins on the brain of the unit to the correct parking light flash polarity before hooking up the wire

-solder and properly tape all your connections

-for this particular car, you're gonna wanna catch the lock and unlock wires along the door sil, so just pull off any trim pieces, and yank the carpet over so you see the thick wire harness running along the side of the car. thats where the wires are gonna be. make sure you test the wires before hooking up whatever the diagram tells you

-NEVER under any circumstances test any wires that are twisted in a pair, or in yellow loom. they are airbag wires and you can very easily set off your car's air bags


other than that, the install should be pretty straight forward...let me know if you have any questions.
 
Great tips man! It should be arriving by the end of the week. I am buying a new soldering tool as well.

It is a shame no one else has posted. You can save so much on labor and a HUGE amount on the system itself. I got it for less then half what the install place wanted for just the system.
 
As far as question 1 goes........... I believe the alarm has a built in turbo timer.
I have the previous model and it does have a turbo timer.

I just read a tech article that explained how you can use a turbo timer with a system if I wanted to keep mine. Would you say that the turbo timer that came with your system is pretty easy to program and stuff?
 
Absolutely. It has 30 second, 1 minute and 3 minute times. Plus you can just use the remote start and turn it off after as long you want. (10 minute max)
I kept my turbo timer in as a backup but haven't used it in a year.
Whatever you do, just make sure you use a thick 12v source. I have melted wires before cause it draws alot of current when it starts. I actually ran a dedicated 12v source from the battery for the remote start harness.
 
Do not remote start with a manual trans... If you leave it in first and you try to start it your car will have no problem driving by itself.
 
Do not remote start with a manual trans... If you leave it in first and you try to start it your car will have no problem driving by itself.

x 2.... unless you check that you are in neutral and set your parking brake EVERYTIME you leave your car.

Set it for passive arm after you install it, and get backup battery, couple of piezos and some more sensors and/or sirens.

HIDE THE BRAIN! You may want to check with an alarm shop, labor is not really that expensive if you know people in your area. Besides, most insurance companies will not cover any break-ins or items stolen from you car unless the alarm was professional installed.
 
That wiring diagram on the site you posted is WRONG.. these are the correct color wires for the ignition switch wires:

White = Constant 12V
Black/Red = Starter
Blue = ACC
Black/White = IGN1
Blue/Black = IGN2

this is also the very same reason a lot of people mess up their turbotimer hardwire installs. They follow those diagrams on installs sites. The above & VFAQ are the correct ones.
 
That wiring diagram on the site you posted is WRONG.. these are the correct color wires for the ignition switch wires:

White = Constant 12V
Black/Red = Starter
Blue = ACC
Black/White = IGN1
Blue/Black = IGN2

this is also the very same reason a lot of people mess up their turbotimer hardwire installs. They follow those diagrams on installs sites. The above & VFAQ are the correct ones.


once again, why you're going to want to use the proper tools before you go hooking up whatever colors any wiring diagram tells you. I did car audio/security for 4 years and I can't tell you how many times a reliable, accurate wiring diagram was wrong, even the ones right from Directed Electronics. You'll sometimes run into cars that have 5 wires in the ignition harness, all of which are the same color. Trust me, test everything with a probe or a meter first.

as far as where to get your 12v source, you can get most of what you need including that in the ignition harness.

I have an apexi turbo timer as well as a remote start/security combo in my car and the turbo timer does its thing, once it shuts off, the alarm waits 30 seconds and arms iteself. everything on how to do this should be in the installation guide that came with the unit.
 
and btw a remote start in a car thats manual is not an issue at all. just don't be an idiot and leave it in gear when you get out. get used to using just the e-brake
 
of course proper tools, but it doesnt hurt to get across the CORRECT wiring, and in our case, the wires are color coded and the correct ones do help initially prior to testing.

if you are not going to do any driver side unlock priority, you can tap right into the power lock/unlock wires behind the radio. nice and convenient esp if you are locating the brain somewhere by there
 
Nessuno since you seem like a pro..

Where is the easiest way to access the factory DISARM wire, i believe its green/white, always said to be in driver's kick panel, however it's really behind the driver's door panel, and runs along that casing that goes in the car, but is lost in that mess of wiring all up in there. anywhere easier to access this?
 
I honestly never had an issue with the factory alarm in these cars and I've done quite a few. all you have to do is make sure it's disarmed with the factory keypad and you should be fine as long as you use only the new remote to lock and unlock and you should be fine. unfortunately, if you do have to use the wire, the only place I know of to catch it would be that huge mess of wires.
 
Darn, yea it's one of the only few wires I have left, and was hoping I could locate it somewhere easier.

One of my habits is to lock the vehicle with just the power lock, which would arm the factory alarm, and not having the disarm wire attached, as you know, will make the factory alarm go off..

oh well, time to get in that mess
 
I honestly never had an issue with the factory alarm in these cars and I've done quite a few. all you have to do is make sure it's disarmed with the factory keypad and you should be fine as long as you use only the new remote to lock and unlock and you should be fine. unfortunately, if you do have to use the wire, the only place I know of to catch it would be that huge mess of wires.

I agree with Nessuno. I have never worried about the factory alarm in these cars. You will be unarming the alarm with the remote anyways, which will unlock the doors. You'll have no need to use the key to unlock the door.
 
Again, if you reread my post, the problem is if the car is locked by using the power luck button on the door. this would arm the car.

and because the disarm wire is not hooked up, when you use the keyfob of your aftermarket alarm, yea it will unarm the new alarm and unlock the doors, but will NOT disarm the factory alarm that was activated due to using just the door lock button.. so as soon as you open the doors the stock alarm horn will start blaring.

i know an easy answer is just dont lock it wit the button on the door panel, well thats not an option it, does happen.
 
Everything else seems to be working so far except for the remote start. Whenever I try to start it, it says "remote start error" on the remote and i get 7 flashes. The flashes say that it is not initiated in manual transmission mode.
 
then you most likely have to go through the programming sequence and change it to automatic if you bypassed the neutral safety from the clutch in the car and hooked it up the way I told you. all of the programming instructions are in the installation/user guide.
 
If your car is a manual hook up the black/white; neutral safety input to the Emergency brake. This Will only reduce your chances of damage, not just external but internal as the starter, flywheel or others can be damaged if it is left in gear.
If it's a concern you could upgrade to the 5701 or 5901 which have a manual transmission mode programed in to them. I personally perfer the 5701 or 5901 because It has all the same features as the others with some extra's, Interior temp request, runtime request, and easier to use.
 
then you most likely have to go through the programming sequence and change it to automatic if you bypassed the neutral safety from the clutch in the car and hooked it up the way I told you. all of the programming instructions are in the installation/user guide.

Let me tell you what wires I have hooked up and to wear.

It is in Maunal Transmission mode.
1. (-) Neutral Safety Switch Input - I have this hooked up to the e brake wire.
2. Tachometer Input Wire - I have this hooked up to pin 89 (Cam Angle Sensor Wire)
3. (+) Brake Shutdown Input Wire - I have this hooked up to the wire that goes positive when the brake pede is pressed.
4. N/O or N/C (-) Hood Pin switch Input - I have this running 12v which means that it is detecting my hood is always closed.
5. Off the primary harness then I have the (-) Remote Start/ Turbo Timer Activation Input - this goes to a little switch they give you. This I am not sure i did right. I have the swtich witha ground wire tired to it and then the wire from the harness going into the end. When you press the switch it moves the one wire away from the other wire.

When I try to start it via the remote it says "remote start error" and then error is "manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized".

If your car is a manual hook up the black/white; neutral safety input to the Emergency brake. This Will only reduce your chances of damage, not just external but internal as the starter, flywheel or others can be damaged if it is left in gear.
If it's a concern you could upgrade to the 5701 or 5901 which have a manual transmission mode programed in to them. I personally perfer the 5701 or 5901 because It has all the same features as the others with some extra's, Interior temp request, runtime request, and easier to use.

This is the system we are refering too.
 
Do not remote start with a manual trans... If you leave it in first and you try to start it your car will have no problem driving by itself.

I remote start my manual DAILY.
 
I solved the problem by switching to Automatic Transmission mode. My car used to be an automatic so I am not sure if that had something to do with why it wasn't working. My neutral safety switch any stuff was never hooked up.

It shouldn't be a danger because I ALWAYS use an ebrake w/ my turbo timer.

Install is complete and works great!
 
same here. sorry I didn't reply right away. it just makes life easier if you set it for auto. I remember having issues with getting DEI units to work on a manual. mine is setup as auto and I haven't had any issues. just gotta break the habit of leaving the car in gear.

also, I'm not too sure about your tach. I always used to use the injector wires, opposite of the common color. it works pretty much every time and avoids confusion...but tach would probably be the last thing I'd worry about because if you don't get a good signal, the unit will tell you by flashing the led.
 
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