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Timing slipped (merge)

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Nasty Dream

10+ Year Contributor
455
3
Aug 30, 2011
Alexandria, Virginia
So the problem with my car...

So this timing belt slipped... a lot? The left mark is harder to see, but it's there.

These marks will never line up, right, I mean unless I just don't understand something.

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Anyone have more information, for example "One more tooth and engine damage"?
 

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They will line up correctly at tdc cylinder 1. and easy way to check is to remove your spark plugs and use a 1/2" ratchet and turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly until the marks on the cam gears line up and the dowel pins for the cams are facing up. when those are lined up you should be able to check the mark on the harmonic balancer to see if it matches up with the "0" mark on the timing belt cover.
 
So the timing is OK?

Can you not tell by looking at this? I was hoping that it's obvious the timing slipped. Because I need an explanation for it running poorly at cruise (holding throttle steady). Otherwise there's something else wrong with the car and maybe it's not worth fixing.g

If the timing slipped, I will get it done in the shop. I don't need to fix it myself
 
You cant tll in the pic bcause
A we dont know the position of the crank
B the dowels are not pointing up
C you arent even close to the marks

Why do you suspect timing and not something else?

The only wa y to check it is relative to the crank. Theatks are worthless otherwise. It would be like trying to measure a board but the tape measure isnt on the edge.
 
Oh. I thought the marks on the cam gears were supposed to be pointing at each other and meet in the middle, between the gears.

:/

The gears each have two marks, each on opposite sides. All four marks should form a straight line.
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Ps. The symptom you describe sounds more like a non-recirculated BOV, an intake leak, or a faulty upstream O2 sensor. If the timing were jumped by one tooth, you would experience a large shift in your powerband. Such as massive sluggishness until 3000 rpm or something of that nature.
 

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VERY helpful, thanks.

I also bet the o2s are fouled up bad, but my breaker bar isn't co-operating with the 3/8 adapter for the o2 socket.

I ordered a 3/8 breaker, I think. If not, I will Monday.

I also have a hose kit that I need to finish installing.

I added a check valve and made sure the PCV was working.
 
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New Oxygen Sensor. Installing a new one did not fix the engine running rough at a steady throttle input. I started it up, held the throttle slightly, and the engine started flopping around and it ran "un smooth".

The sensor tip of the one on the right is covered in carbon buildup. It has been through a rich fuel mixture for 50,000 miles (no AFPR with Walboro 250 /rewired) and ultimately was in use for a little while with a failed fuel pressure regulator, which sent black soot and small chunks of carbon everywhere.

I want to get the motor mounts installed. He probably damaged the rear one trying to get the front insert on the rear. :/

So I don't know if I should get a new one and get the Energy Suspension insert installed, or just use the insert with an old motor mount (122,222 miles). He probably messed it up a little, I don't know how critical the integrity is. He tried to hammer one in or use a vise or something on the wrong insert.

And I don't know if that is even the problem. I'm going to pull the computer tomorrow and sniff around> Not hopeful.

But could it be the coil pack or something? Seems almost like 1 cylinder doesn't fire under a steady state throttle. I can rev the engine and it sounds fine. It idles a little gargley sounding. Maybe the cat?

I plan to replace the exhaust but I wanted to do it with the turbo.. I wanted to be sure the engine isn't damaged so I'll have the money available for parts if not.
 

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