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foxylaser

Probationary Member
13
0
Apr 2, 2012
Tecumseh, Michigan
Hey guys,

First off, my name is Nick and I am kind of new to the forum. I've been browsing tuners for years trying to get a base knowledge of these cars. I've been working on cars "eduaction training" wise for 3 years now. I also have minor Chrysler dealership and minor 4G63 (Friends EVO 8) experience.

With all that being said here is where I am at. On April 1st, I purchased my first DSM. It is a 1992 Plymouth Laser RS AWD 5spd. On the way home from buying it, only a 50 mile drive, the car spun #3 rod bearing. Needless to say the joke was on me.

As i was tearing into the car, i noticed quite a few things that have been hacked on the car and the car came with a list of lies from the owner. I am now at the point where i have the engine out and I am slowly purchasing parts for the rebuild.

Recently, I found a stock rebuilt (1300 miles) 6 bolt block with clevite bearings, arp head studs, and a std. felpro head gasket not a mls type. I am going to look at this engine to get the car running while i build the original engine to what i want.

Finally to the point of this post. I am just looking for suggestions of things to look for and things to ask the owner when I go look at it tonight. Any help is welcomed. I know there is a lot of knoledge of this site and would like to extract all that I can!

Thanks for the help in advanced!
 
I can't believe I didn't think about compression. I already had oil pressure on my mind. I should be looking for even numbers across all 4 cylinders correct? And about what should they be at?
 
They should be somewhat even, they don't have to match but be close. If memory serves me right stock compression 6 bolt should be somewhere around 165. Might be a good idea to ask what brand and weight oil he ran. Other than that, it's all what your eyes can see. If something just doesn't look right then ask about it.
 
Awesome! Sounds like a close enough number. I'm hoping he has the pan and the head off so I can get a glimpse of the internals. I'd hate to get screwed over by craigslist again!
 
I'll probably bring a tester if i pick it up. This trip is just seeing the block and asking the owner some questions. Hopefully he does have an air compressor. Would a portable compressor have enough capacity for a CLT? I have only done them with shop compressors.
 
Alright! I could do something like that there and then do one with a larger compressor when I get it home. Any other suggestions?
 
Oh try to pull off the pan, to look for anything obvious. Not 100% on the tell tale of bearing spins but I could say look for discoloration of the metal. You should be able to wiggle the connecting rods on the crank from side to side only a bit, but NOT up and down. Crankshaft endplay should not be noticeable without a pry bar and dial indicator. Look at the cylinder walls, should still see a good amount of cross hatching if only a 1300 mile rebuild
 
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I am thinking the pan may be off already due to previous possible buyers looking. I know that these questions are iffy but with what i have described, what would you say a good price is for this. Right now i have the seller down to $300.
 
Nice deal especially with the minor upgrades ARP's felpro etc

Just make sure there's nothing hidden about it, but if they are considerably outgoing on showing you stuff, that's usually a good sign
 
Thanks guys. This is just going to be an engine to drop in the car to get it running and get to learn the car while I build the engine that spun the bearing. I will post pictures of the teardown of the original and of this one as i get them.
 
Definitively start a build journal, people will help you with tips and whatnot. Wish I did one but I wasn't expecting to do an actual custom build vs simple rebuild
 
I was wanting to but its going to be a long process time wise until I get the built engine around
 
Thanks for the help! If anyone has anything to add I will still get to the forums through my phone. I am heading to look at it within a few minutes
 
Well I put a down payment on the block last night. I will be picking it up Sunday sometime.

The block, head, and pan were all separated when I looked at it. Everything seemed tight. We were able to spin the engine and inspect the cylinder walls. Cross hatching clearly visable still. :thumb: Mating surface of the head and block look clean. No damage that me or my friend noticed. Owner said it came out of a friends smashed awd and he is getting out of the dsm game.

They also had another engine that was sold previously that day. That one was out of my price range. Seller is putting the engine together before i pick it up sunday so i can get some compression and clt numbers on it. I will probably end up tearing it back down just to do a final inspection before i spend the time of putting it in the car.

Never hurts to double check and have another set of eyes look it over.

Will be getting pics of the engine when I pick it up
 
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