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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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Hey guys so i found another GST Everything about the car is perfect, but the only thing is the car is automatic and im looking for a 5 speed. do you know how expensive it is to do a auto to manual change? also would i run into any problems down the road, like since the car was made auto but i get it changed to manual would there be any problems? the reason im asking this is because the car is kinda far from me,i havent even seen the car yet but if its not that bad to do a change and i go see the car and i like it ill buy it. let me know what you guys think

heres the ad 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST - $3800 (Eagle Rock / Glendale)

thanks
 
Minimalitia said:
i am no noob when it comes to the dsms. LOL i have had at least 6 or 7 dsms in the last few yrs. i was thinking of maybe trying to grab a JDM 6 bolt with the cyclone intake for it down the road but first minor mods i wanted to to were logger, evo 16g, turbo back exhaust, injectors, and i was hopeing to do a FMIC. i know it has high miles but low mile dsm's are getting very hard to find around here. id much rather find another 90 tsi like i used to have.
i know with this car first major thing is a boost test then a compression test.
im not afraid of going after the mis fire or the seal. those are no big deal but i was a lil dissappointed when i heard ab it. didnt really want to drop the tranny.. well see. im gonna go check it out and ill snap some pics of a bunch of things to show everyone.
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Please for the love of god dont say i want a JDM engine, with cyclone intake! This aint a honda jdm is no better and most of the time its not even jdm. And the cyclone manifold sucks. its restrictive and no decent power HP car has one. you have a lot of reading to do and knowledge to obtain
 
Ok this dude is selling a 91 laser rst with a 16g and a few basic mods...but it grinds sometimes going in to second gear...he wants 2,000 for it...Is this worth it....car body is in good shape and clean...118k on body and 40k on engine...new tb and wp...let me know [email protected] please and thanks!!!!!!!:laser:
 
I'd say if he has all the supporting mods for that 16g then yes its a good deal. Then if the tranny is really bad it can be rebuilt for i think its like $800. My car grinds sometimes going into third. Not everytime and its not that bad as to where I would consider shipping it out and getting it rebuilt. When it starts grinding everytime then fix it. Good luck with the buy.
 
Thanks for the replys...well as far as I know it has a greddy bov...man. boost controller..dunno what innercooler...is that grind normal??? Also it has a 94 talon front end now...2008 Altima rims for some reason LOL...well I kkb.com that car and its like worth 1,500...so I dunno guys..feedback welcome:D
 
With dsms with a not rebuilt trans yea it is. Mine grinds into 3 my buddies grinds into 2nd. Some people use gm syncromesh oil in the trans, i stick with actual gear oil. I am getting ready to put in some redline mt90 for this summer.
 
MT-90 is the bomb! Great stuff!

But, a bad tranny and KBB is shooting 1500 bucks for a '91(high retail, or middle retail..?)........shoot him the book price and see what he says. He should, if fair, offer an OBO being you gonna do some tranny work if that thing grinds. And if he budges on an OBO, go find another DSM for you gonna get tooken like a sucker destined for stinkbait - since he's fishing for some way to recoup his expenses that he's spent into it an it's too far gone for him to continue with it, or he's hurting for some fast bucks real quick... Putting on different rims and a '94 front end....."geez" that ride is asking for trouble right there....

BUT, here's a test to see if syncros in that tranny are gone for sure and if they are, forget about any kind/make of tranny fluid being the "magical potion" to cure grinding: With the motor in idle, lightly push the shifter into each gear WITHOUT pushing on the clutch. If the motor slows down a bit in each gear you go into, that syncro is good. BUT, if you grind in a gear, that syncro is shot ... period.

- time for a tranny overhaul/replacement - NO "if's", "ands", or "buts"!

It's gonna be a money magnet down the road real bad....

-Good luck in your find. - DSM
 
the grind is normal. they all do it. mostly in 2nd or 3rd. thats a mitsu tranny for you. i know that kkb may say its worth so much but really its what its worth to you!!! but it sounds like its a ok deal. make sure u take a look at the big things like if u can the timing belt. when i bought mine the timing belt was torn and i had no idea. now $800 later I've learned my lesson!!!
 
Well it has a new timing belt and water pump....needs rotors as well...thats cheap...he said it will keep up with 5.0 stangs LOL so i mean sounds kinda quick...
 
it should beat 5.0 stangs. i was at the track with my car. all i had done was the 14b at 18psi, k&n intake, and a 3' turbo back exhaust and i killed a 5.0 so with that car having a 16g it should be no problem for it.
 
its not bad. looks like every other 91 dsm. not a bad thing. i would offer the kid 1500+ and go from there. when i was looking for a dsm about a year ago i found one for 2k and when i got there i just picked the car apart. pointing out all the small stuff and i talked him down to 1500. wouldn't hurt. all he can do is say no. i have a really clean 91 and i love it to death. i think as long as it runs it worth 1500. there fun cars!!!
 
On finding out what turbo is in that thing, crawl under to where you can see the turbo housing and find any of these numbers:

49178-01400 = vr4 turbo a.ka. 14B
49178-01410 = vr4 turbo ASPEC
49178-01420 = vr4 RS turbo (Small 16G)
49178-01450 = EVO-1 turbo (Small 16G, and some Big 16G)
49178-01460 = EVO-2 turbo (Big 16G)
49178-01470 = EVO-3 turbo (Big 16G bigger again)
49178-01580 = EVO-7 turbo (Twin scroll, reverse mount)

This will give you some idea what size that turbo is.

Mine holds the: 49178-01450.

-DSM
 
thanks guys....yea I dunno if he is going to budge on the price...but if I do the syncro test and they are bad thats going to be a deal killer....any other things?
 
....any other things?
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There's lotsa tests to do on a used vehicle:

1 Brakes - do they stop the car, check the pad linings, see any excessive rotor wear, do the grab, esp in reverse, and brake the car in reverse to hear how the pads are. In a parking lot: speed up then brake the car and see if the wheel pulls to either side.

2-CV joints: do hard left/right turning in a slow speed and hear for 'clicking' - shot CV joints. Then go under and check the boots if they're torn or not. No click, but torn boots mean an immediate CV axle replacment.

3-(he said it's a good engine though) my classic test: poke a finger in the exhaust pipe. If it comes out sooty, motor is okey. BUT, if it comes out sooty and a bit slimey: motor's an oil eater.

4-Classic one is look underneath to the crossmember right there and the two bolts that holds the front member to the front of the car. Are the bolts looks all crushed and even shoved backwards? Car has been pancaking a few times bending up the front section of the frame being bent up causing the roll stop bracket (front motor mount) to go higher than usual causing the block to be in contact with that crossmember..and you could bust that part of the block off. And with a pancaked car, check the oil pan to see if it's not all mangled up and dented from meeting the ground or parking curbs too much.

5-pop the radiator cap off. Green fluid means a clean motor. Brown-motor and radiator needs serious flushing out.

6-Pull the dipstick: Wipe the stick on a white rag - brown to dark brown..motor is okey. Brown/black to black -motor is worn with bad rings, valve guides. Greyish milky color - blown HG and you'd better walk away as fast as you can.

7-Battery connections: good and tight with clean connections, or looks like they've been beaten to death with a pair of pliers or hammer. The latter - new connectors desparately needed.

8-Grab the front end and give it a through pump-up-and-down: Goes down and rises then stops .. good struts. Bounces more than once - new struts needed.

9-Grab a tire and give it a very hard lateral shake: very little movement, good bearings. sloppy movement, shot wheel bearings - can also mean suspension is shot as well.

Anyone else wants to chime in on this list, feel free. For this is all I can think of for now.

True, $900 bucks is a reasonable price for this one with the condition that it's in along with the year.

they're fun cars!!!
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Yes, they are. I love mine due to all the freeway driving that I do - very comfortable to drive in.



-DSM
 
that's a 92-94 because of the composite headlights unless he went with a newer front clip and it is really not bad , but i wouldn't buy it if you really want a awd because then that is a waste of money, check craigslist and our classifieds and eBay and the news paper, but i would say its worth about $ 1000-1500 , if your heart says yes then get it, mine really goes off when i want a car, also spend 20 dollars and get a car fax make sure there isn't something hes hiding, what is up with the back spoiler ?

also it needs a new front bumper cover and looks like a drivers corner light ?
 
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