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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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This will be a longwinded response.

I would say that if the motor is stock and was maintained fairly well, then the possibilities are listed below in order of likelihood. Not failproof, but these motors are known for the first 2 more commonly when stock and its also dependent on mileage/maintenance. But they love to eat bearings also, but more commonly on rebuilds in my experience.

1. Lifter tick
2. Timing belt jumped
3. Rod knock

Here is a video of lifter tick. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/280783-spun-rod-bearing-loud-lifter-tick.html

Here is a video of rod knock.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/267119-lifer-tick-spun-rod.html

As you can hear they are very different sounding. Literally a "tick" or a "knock." The knock will be very clunky and hollow sounding.

It is entirely possible that it is a the wrist pin in the piston knocking also, which I would imagine is somewhere in between the sound in those 2 videos.

It could also be valve to piston contact from the timing belt jumping a few teeth. Pull the upper timing cover and check the belt tension and then watch it while it runs. Some "flapping" is normal, but only a small amount. Also look for missing timing belt teeth/belt condition.

Do yourself a favor and buy a mechanics stethoscope at Harbor freight, Sears, or the like and probe the motor to find where it is coming from. If you hear nothing when probing the oil pan/block and only hear it at the VC or head, then you can be reasonably sure it is the valve train. Although, I assume wrist pin knock would be heard near the head partition as well, but I have never diagnosed it personally.

partsdinosaur.com is a good source for the revised lifter for the 4G63. The process is fairly simple and I would recommed a timing belt at the same time.

Rod knock warrants a complete teardown of the motor. If it has spun a bearing and knocked, then the crankshaft is probably out of round. You can do a stock rebuild/6 bolt swap for about $1000-1500 if you do it yourself. But what always happens is you say to yourself..."while I have it apart, I might as well replace..." So it turns into a $3000 rebuild. :thumb:

The car appears to be clean. IMO, $1800 for a clean stock 2g with a blown motor is a fair price if you have a daily driver and want a project car.

Good Luck.
 
So my friend tells me that someone is selling a parts car not to far from me and it is a 95 turbo model. Supposedly the oil filter housing cracked on the highway and the car lost oil pressure, BUT there is oil in the pan. The car is modded and has a few parts that I would use. He says title is in hand. The parts list consist of

Bigt28 (not sure which variation. He said they checked and there are no bent fins and shaft play isn't bad)
550CC injectors
FMIC (Looks to be an apexi since I compared some pictures, but cant tell for sure from picture)
Greddy Exhaust
Greddy Type S Bov
Safc
Gauges (Not specfic on the type)
Turbo Timer
Electronic Boost Controller
16" konig rims
Newly rebuilt transmission and new clutch (supposedly has receipts)
powerslot rotors
and more
Might have an eprom since it is a 95

The interior has gotten rained in because of a broken window so it would need to be scrubbed down heavily and cleaned. The paint is faded and the drivers door handle is broken (haven't we all experienced this LOL) So would this be worth paying 1200 for?

I only plan to keep the turbo, fmic, and 550cc injectors and maybe sell some of the upgrades and replace them with stock parts and then sell the complete car just trying to break even.
 
I am not sure what your budget is but $1800 for a clean looking 2g its pretty damn good. Just like My1GLaser mentioned the most it will cost to do a rebuilt is another 2k, and you can have a nice ride for 4k. I say get it:thumb:
 
If youve got the time and you can keep your NT 1g then it shouldnt be a question for you...however if you have to sell your 1g and you dont have another car to drive around you might want to reconsider. Ive been there before, actually this whole summer, I had to do a tranny and t-case swap and that took me about a month, waiting for parts, doing it allllll by myself, and saving money to get parts. Just think as far ahead as you can, itll pay off.
 
This is your first DSM? I dont know if I would get something thats already toyed with so much. Me and one of my friend both recently got DSMs around the same time, he had his about a month longer than me and found out slowly, from every other person that has ever seen the car, more stuff that was done to it than he was told when he bought it in the first place. So if youre prepared and knowledgeable enough to figure things out and recognize what everything is, then great, if not you might want to keep looking. This car doesnt really sound like the type youre looking for at this point.
 
ok well I just said break even just so I can at least get my money back LOL on top of having a FMIC, Bigt28, and 550cc injectors which would basically make them "free" can't argue with free mods right? It "looks" nice at least LOL I guess until I see it in person

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my oh my, you gotta learn how to walk before you can run :p

that dsm is way too much dsm for you being a first time owner. if you are looking as you say for.. "a reliable car i can track/take to snow/have fun with and not worry too much", I say move along. If this was a nearly stock 1g sure why not, or a nearly stock 2g, or with basic mods, I would be all for it.

Who knows the real history of this car, and what you will be faced with if you purchase it. If it becomes the typical unreliable dsm and you don't chose to take your time and learn how to deal with it, we'll see it back on craigslist or on the classifieds being parted out, followed by another owner spreading the word that dsms are unreliable POS :)
 
DSM_PWR said:
hey JDiddy2k4, ive seen the car and its not worth it trust me, the boost controller is missing some stuff, i believe the turbo isnt far from being blown, I would just buy the eprom
Click to expand...

Where was the car at when you saw it, because they said it is outside austin?
 
Im selling my gst for a gsx. Theres one about 200 miles away that is in good shape. The timing belt was replaced recently. Drives and idles good. It does have an exhaust leak(pre turbo). Would that cause it to miss above 4000 rpm? Also to all gsx owners, how loud is the rear differential supposed to be. It sounds like a 4wd truck in 1st gear up to 12mph. Anyway is it worth $4900?1997 mitsubishi eclipse GSX
 
talontsi98 said:
Im selling my gst for a gsx. Theres one about 200 miles away that is in good shape. The timing belt was replaced recently. Drives and idles good. It does have an exhaust leak(pre turbo). Would that cause it to miss above 4000 rpm? Also to all gsx owners, how loud is the rear differential supposed to be. It sounds like a 4wd truck in 1st gear up to 12mph. Anyway is it worth $4900?1997 mitsubishi eclipse GSX
Click to expand...

You should not be able to hear the rear differential. Are you sure its the differential and not a bad carrier bearing? I would definetly have the rear end and fluid checked before purchasing the vehicle. I would also look into the transfer case and make sure it is not leaking/low on fluid as this could cause the same sound.
 
Two things come to mind with the missing above 4000 rpm. One would be running too rich if there is a walbro 255 or even 190 fuel pump and stock fpr. Another could be the opposite since it states it has a larger turbo but nothing about the fuel system, it could be hitting fuel cut but that would be more than just a "miss".

Has the car been sitting long? Maybe the noise is just the brakes hung up a little bit.

The leak in the exhaust manifold will cause some performance issues, not to mention I'm sure its loud as hell.

Also change the timing belt and tensioner anyway for good measure if you pick this car up. you might as well do the other belts and pulleys at the same time while your in there. Even though the seller claims the belt was replaced its ALWAYS a good idea to replace it again. Have him provide a receipt and proof of when the belt was replaced otherwise replace it again.
 
Its not the brakes. I checked the timing belt and it looked almost new(still had blue coating).
It has the stock fuel pump. It did have 2 codes: fuel pressure solenoid and rear o2 sensor codes. And yes the exhaust is pretty loud.
 
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