the clutch will not disengage

[fantom73088]

Last week my car would not go into gear on my way home so after further inspection I found that my master cylinder was leaking fluid so I just ordered another one (oem) not checking anything else. Now I have hours into bleeding this clutch system and with no results. I replaced the second rubber line, steel line, and accumulator with a stainless line, also replaced the slave cylinder with an oem one. The through out bearing was replaced 5kmi ago but it was an aftermarket bearing. also the pivot ball was shimmed. i also put an extended push rod in but it isn't full length Ive cut it down so there is still enough free-play. all the bell housing bolts are tight. and the master cylinder rod has been adjusted to where its suppose to be. now my question is why won't my clutch through enough to disengage.

 

[PWR4HIM]

Did the clutch work as normal before changing the push rod and such, or was that change done at this time as well? Not to ask a stupid question, but are you sure it has been properly bled?

 

[turbo98eclipse]

whats the condition of the clutch? was it replaced when the TOB was?

and do you have pedal pressure or no?

 

[Tyeler18]

Proper clutch adjustment is key here.

Also you could have PP/disc problems. Just replaced the clutch on my NT that had the same problem. Ended up being one of the disc springs had busted out.

 

[96 420a-t]

I recently did mine. I gravity bled it till fluid stopped coming out. I pumped the pedal slowly ten times then cracked the bleeder till fluid came out. Then I closed it and pumped the pedal again.. I cracked the bleeder and waited till I saw no more bubbles. Then bam! I had my clutch again.

 

[turbo98eclipse]

Also you could have PP/disc problems. Just replaced the clutch on my NT that had the same problem. Ended up being one of the disc springs had busted out.

yupp thats why i asked him

 

[98spydereugene]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html

Never had a problem doing it this way...especially helpful is bleeding the slave when your done with the master...

 

[Tyeler18]

yupp thats why i asked him

Didn't see yours, I must've still been posting when you posted.

 

[turbo98eclipse]

its only 2am in the ny/nj area... you mean this guy isnt still up posting on tuners?!!?

 

[98mitsubishigst]

its only 2am in the ny/nj area... you mean this guy isnt still up posting on tuners?!!?

Lmao F- Our lifes hahahaha

 

[Lofty]

It seems to be a multitude of things it could possibly be, excuse my typos, I'm on my droid, anyways, how does the pedal feel, most of all? If it feels squishy or sticks to the floor you have some issues sir. It could also be your clutch assembly itself.

Let's start.
Bleed it for a long time cause you'd be amazed as to how much bleeding it really takes! Our clutch hydraulic systems aren't exactly designed the best so to speak. It takes a lot to get the air out of all those bends and turns.
Visually inspect that your slave rod is moving when someone pushes the clutch, however might I add, a shimmed pivot ball and extended slave rod are just all bandages to fix more deep underlying problems.

Granted shimming does indeed help but with a new pivot ball and clutch fork you shoudnt have to worry.

My plan of action would be to bleed the piss out of it until you can't bleed it anymore, visually inspect the slave rod is moving with clutch in, then drop the trans, cause you're having a physical clutch problem.

Good luck, its more simple than you could think!

 

[fantom73088]

I have bled the system according to those instructions, i have pressure bled the system, and also reverse bled the system and nothing has worked. The pivot ball, fork and transmission only had 40k on them when I shimmed them so they shouldn't be worn to bad and only have 45k now. The clutch may have 35k on it and I'm pretty sure its an act... it came in a 40k mile gst i bought and is not stock so I'm kinda guessing the mileage but this is were the tranny and fork assembly came from as well. As far as pressure there is pressure there but not what it should or used to be and the fork does move when the peddle is depressed, but not far enough. And if i adjust the peddle adjustment any more it will block off the bleeder valve on the master cylinder, and probably apply constant pressure to the clutch assembly.

 

[UofACATS]

What was the step height on the flywheel when you verified it?

 

[olddsmer]

You better check your clutch pedal assy. If the bushings finially died, you will never get the clutch to work. I don't care how much you bleed it.

Regards
Greg

 

[fantom73088]

It was the pressure plate causing the problem it broke apart causing fragments to get lodged in and binding the assembly so it would not release. I have a new act on the way with some goodies to hopefully improve the overall clutch feel. Thanks for all the suggestions, Adam