take motor out, or leave in

[buddy3824]

I've got a cracked ring in cylinder 2. so im going to put rings and rods and pistons in it. my question is how easy is it to yank the motor rather then taking it apart in the engine bay? does the tranny come out with it? can i just disconnect the lines and yank the motor out? i'm in a compact garage so space is a big issue, was just curious before i dig in

I have 1gb laser rs awd thats a 5sp. thanks

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

Pull it out and have the block machined properly. No sense building it twice if you can avoid it. On average it takes me 2-3 hours to have the engine and trans sitting on the ground in a 2g awd (I know yours is a 1g.)

-Oliver

 

[buddy3824]

ok so pretty much i need to disconnect all the lines, electrical wiring, cables, drop the tcase, exhaust, pull the axles out? and unbolt the mounts, sounds pretty easy, finding everything is the fun part i guess?

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

ok so pretty much i need to disconnect all the lines, electrical wiring, cables, drop the tcase, exhaust, pull the axles out? and unbolt the mounts, sounds pretty easy, finding everything is the fun part i guess?

Yes, pull the battery out first, drain coolant and oil, unbolt the starter, ps pump and AC and set them off to the side (found this is easier than unhooking lines and recharging AC) unbolt the fuel rail from the head and set it off to the side (leave injectors in the rail) so you don't spew fuel everywhere and start unclipping and unbolting. Chiltons may tell you to do it differently but this is how I have done it on my own cars. pull the radiator out as well, it gives you a lot more room to move. You might have an easier time putting it back together if you label the bolts as you take them out (as in all the tranny bolts in one bag, transfer in another ect.) Take your time, if you have any questions just ask. No need breaking something because you were trying to rush or didn't know how something comes off.

-Oliver

 

[Coreyred95]

yeah definately pull it out and put it on an engine stand. it makes it MUCH easier. i found a post on here that shows where all of the vacuum lines are on both a 2g and a 1g. i dont remember what its called so you might have to do some digging for it. also i pulled the intake manifold to get at the starter and ac compressor connections. that made it much easier.

hope this helps

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

yeah definately pull it out and put it on an engine stand. it makes it MUCH easier. i found a post on here that shows where all of the vacuum lines are on both a 2g and a 1g. i dont remember what its called so you might have to do some digging for it. also i pulled the intake manifold to get at the starter and ac compressor connections. that made it much easier.

hope this helps

The only pain about pulling the intake manifold to get to the starter is the bracket that "holds it up" (useless bracket IMHO) also the bolts for the starter are easily accessible without taking it off. it all depends on what works best for the guy removing it.

 

[Coreyred95]

yeah thath thing did suck, i found a really easy way to get it unbolted with all of the intake and battery out i just reached in passenger side behind the engine and unbolted the bottom bolt and it came right out.

 

[buddy3824]

ive got everything disconnected and unhooked except axles and motor mounts. i have a question at this time. if i take the axles out and leave the motor and trans connected, can i roll the car forward a few feet without messing anything up? with the transfer case still in or do i need to drop the t-case so the trans doesnt spin at all?

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

ive got everything disconnected and unhooked except axles and motor mounts. i have a question at this time. if i take the axles out and leave the motor and trans connected, can i roll the car forward a few feet without messing anything up? with the transfer case still in or do i need to drop the t-case so the trans doesnt spin at all?

You will need to take the axles out at the hub too. So if you want to take it apart then put it back together to roll it go for it. Why are you moving it?

-Oliver

 

[buddy3824]

my garage is super small. i had to back the rearend of the car out of the garage 2 feet to have room to work, so i will be rolling it back in once i get the motor out. i have 2 more motor mounts to loosen up and then shes ready to come out. best places to hook up for the pull out???

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

my garage is super small. i had to back the rearend of the car out of the garage 2 feet to have room to work, so i will be rolling it back in once i get the motor out. i have 2 more motor mounts to loosen up and then shes ready to come out. best places to hook up for the pull out???

If you have a load leveler your best bet would be to use the bracket by the power steering pump (Lift hook) and there should be one by the TB as well.

-Oliver

 

[buddy3824]

the black bracket between block and tb?

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

Should be pretty thick and cast. My lift hooks have been gone for a long time so I can't remember off hand.

 

[buddy3824]

yeah. its bout half inch solid. getting rdy to yank her out. im sure ive still got some lines hooked up where i cant find.

shes pulled. just need some new axles cuse both boots are torn and wasnt aware of it till i pulled em out. other then that. its took about 5hrs of work time

 

[buddy3824]

im on my next day off and so ive parted the trans from the motor and the bell housing has a TON of black dust on it, really thick and heavy. what is this dust? ive never seen it before?

 

[JamesH]

Like said. Pull it out and do it right.

I'd give you a good time on pulling it but I have my bay pretty emptied out so I can pull my motor by itself in about 45 minutes.

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

im on my next day off and so ive parted the trans from the motor and the bell housing has a TON of black dust on it, really thick and heavy. what is this dust? ive never seen it before?

That sir is what is left of your clutch. In all reality it is clutch residue, it's normal just clean it out.

 

[buddy3824]

when i would be driving and let out of the clutch at 2500 rpms or higher, a lot of times i would get funny driveline vibration, sounded really bad, I looked at my flywheel and pressure plate and there are blue hotspots and raised surfaces on the pressure plate, and pieces from my clutch plate are missing, like the friction material, so I am guessing imma need a new clutch setup any suggestions Oliver?