Tackling the head gasket

[Boonie15]

Ok a few I got my timing belt put on a few weeks ago I realized the guy never checked the head. Of course after i got it home (and posting here) I found out ive got a few bent valves. After countless people backing out on me to do the install i've decided to tackle it myself. It's my first head replacement so I've got my Chilton's Manual so i dont get in over my head. I know for sure i've got to replace the head gasket but what about the others? Im kind of on a budget but I dont want to go too cheap to where im setting myself up for failure. The cars got a decent amount of power (2.3 stroker & 20g turbo) so I know I can only cut prices so short. I was looking at the Felpro headgasket and a set of ARP bolts. Any ideas on other things I may need? I plan on getting this thing back on the road before the weekends out.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Basically... Replace all of the gaskets from the HG up. Clean the head up while it's off.

You'll also need an assload of determination and patience if this is your first install.

Remember to drain all of your fluids and cover up the engine if you leave the head off overnight.

 

[Boonie15]

What about the intake & exhaust gaskets? Should i replace those too while i'm at it?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

What about the intake & exhaust gaskets? Should i replace those too while i'm at it?

I like you.

If you have the option to.

Replace the following :

All gaskets from HG up.
All belts that are showing signs of wear
All pulleys - to be safe
Intake Manifold Gasket
TB Gaskets/seals
Clean the TB out
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Clean/Port the Exhaust manifold
Exhaust to Turbo Gasket
Turbo to 02 Housing Gasket
Clean/Port the 02 housing
Replace the 02 to Exhaust Gasket
You can also do mild porting to the Intake Manifold if you wish.

The one thing, though.. the Intake manifold is a pain to remove and replace with the head in the car, so make sure to do it out of the car and put it back on before you drop the head back onto the block.

If you get Studs, Put the head on first, and THEN drop the studs in through the head. If you do studs first and then the head, you have to modify the front engine mount.

 

[Boonie15]

Ok cool. After watching a few videos I saw about 95% of them leave the intake manifold on until the head was taken out. I got all the belts and pulleys replaced along with the timing belt about a month ago or so and the car has been parked since. Sounds like ive got alot on my hands. What should i clean the block with after I get the head off?

 

[turbotalon31]

What kind of head gasket are you going to be using ? if going with a felpro or stock head gasket i just use a scotch bright pad on a cordless drill for the head and block. if u plan on going cometic i would get the head decked at the machine shop.

 

[Boonie15]

Im thinking of using Felpro since its the most available. I'll try the scotch pad with my drill. the new head has already been decked.

 

[turbotalon31]

Just make sure u get the block surface as clean as possible.. i used the felpro gasket and no issues so far on 20psi of boost. i also used copper spay on the head and block surfaces. some people like it others do not.

 

[pdxkris]

Once you're in there, check for knock sensor goo as well. A couple of months ago I did pretty much everything XiKeiyaZI suggested you do, but didn't know about the knock sensor at the time, so I got the joy of replacing it once everything was back on.

If you're not familiar with it, this is bad :

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[spower]

carb cleaner and paint thinner are great for cleaning the mating surfaces. I like to put high temp copper rtv on both sides of the gasket, but as it's been said before, that's a matter of preference.

 

[Elek_ron_ix]

I see your running a good amount of boost. I would recommend a OEM MLS Head Gasket. Make sure to label aeverything and take your time also. Don't want to be scrambling later to figure out where the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors went. Also proper torque on the head is a must. You'll be able to tackle it in a couple of days of hard work for sure. GoodLuck!

 

[Boonie15]

Ok guys ive got thing off but im stuck on this damn intake manifold stay. Got one bolt off but the other seems like it was put on by Hercules! Its just NOT budging. How the hell can I get this thing off? Im pretty much at a stand still until i can get this ONE bolt off

On top of all that, in the process of removing the throttle body i noticed that 2 of my vaccum likes werent connected to anything! any have a diagram or know where each one goes?

 

[dyetrying91]

Ok guys ive got thing off but im stuck on this damn intake manifold stay. Got one bolt off but the other seems like it was put on by Hercules! Its just NOT budging. How the hell can I get this thing off? Im pretty much at a stand still until i can get this ONE bolt off

Is it the one under the cylinder 1 port? It took me an a buddy 3 hours to figure out how to get that off a few weeks ago. Determination and some bloody fingers was all it took. Or you can do a quick search and find out some things people have jury-rigged together to make it easier.

Or the even better option, is pull the head with the intake mani still on it.

 

[Boonie15]

Yeah thats the one! and its on there. But Im trying to pull the head with the intake still on but the stay is bolted from the intake to the block so im stuck until i can get the damn thing off

 

[dyetrying91]

Yeah thats the one! and its on there. But Im trying to pull the head with the intake still on but the stay is bolted from the intake to the block so im stuck until i can get the damn thing off

I ended up buying a ratcheting wrench for it, made it somewhat easier. Other people have ended up using a wierd string mechanism through teh spot to the left of the bolt looking down from the top. It's a PITA to get at.

 

[pdxkris]

I'm pretty sure when I did mine i had the battery and tray (and UICP, maybe throttle body) removed , and came in from the passenger side with a 2' breaker bar. My wife was on the drivers side, and was able to get the socket seated on the bolt while I tried to hold the breaker bar in the right position. It cracked free easily once everything was in position.

 

[Boonie15]

Yeah i've only got a 10" breaker bar. Might need to head to the store today and pick up a few more tools.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

It's just going to take some wiggling and getting your arm in a VERY uncomfortable position.

Post up pictures if you can. I'd like to see what you're working with.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I like to stand under the car and fish a 2' extension and a swivel socket up to the bolt from underneath.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I like to stand under the car and fish a 2' extension and a swivel socket up to the bolt from underneath.

Sadly we all don't own lifts... as much as I'd love to.

Or, unless your a leprechaun. Haha.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Yeah, I do own a couple lifts. I wish I was a leprechaun though. I would sell some of my gold and buy water/meth injection for my Colt, and maybe a GSX for a winterbeater.

 

[BogusSVO]

well if the valves are bent, you have a fery good chance that the guides are cracked and will need replaced too.

 

[Boonie15]

I've got a good hunch the valves are bent so i've got new head that im putting on. Check my video on my other post. And god knows i'd like a lift but i've gotta use what I have. I might have to figure out something. Ironically I got the left one (passenger side) off with a socket wrench but this right one is tough as nails.

 

[auto_gsx1]

make sure you check ## water pump oil pump and all your pullys

when you take off the oil pan check for shaving see if the crank is good might as well check while u have it a part