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T3/T4 gsx help please!

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beendenied

15+ Year Contributor
390
19
Oct 2, 2010
Suffolk, Europe
I have a question about the turbo that I want to install on my 1995 gsx, I have a header, wastegate (not tooo positive on exact size), and an A/R .50 T3/T4 turbo sitting in wait. Now the question is what parts will I need to install it, like the lines, intercooler, piping, oo and I need gaskets too, And I can manage finding a header gasket myself LOL. Any help is appreciated. A list would be awesome.

ps the turbo in the car right now is the stock 1g 14b turbo along with the 1g bov
 

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860s should be pretty good. Depending again on what turbo you end up going with. And I would either get an Evo flashable computer box, a dsm link, or an AEM EMS2. Boost controller is going to be preference. I'm electronic all the way. And I like the Greddy ones. You're also going to need a turbo timer.

And if you're not going bigger than a 20G. Just get the bottom end rebuilt with the stock rods and pistons. Plenty of places will machine the 1990 DSM rods to fit in the 2G motor. Dsm graveyard comes to mind. But if you are like the rest of us. Build it. Because you will go bigger. Ross, Manley, Wiseco pistons. Scat, Eagle, Carillo, Manley, Crower, Pauter Rods. ACL or Clevite bearings and always ARP Studs.
 
Sounds like a plan, and yea a turbo timer is definitely going to happen. They're hangin around for like $50. How can I pass that up LOL. I think I'm going to go for a 20g, there was a post in this thread by black_gst or a variation of that, selling a 20g, what would to say about that. And what's they deal with fuel rails?

I know if I have questions LOL
Will
 
Fuel rails are pretty much useless until you get into real high hp builds. I know numerous people running 500+ with a stock rail. Doesnt your car already have a turbo timer? It not really a NEED... But who wants to sit in their car while it idles for 30 sec to a min? not me! ;) Also I agree with Gregg, you can get some good hp with stock 6 bolt rods and forged pistons! And theyre cheap!


And Tom, are you assembling yourself? When I do mine I'm sending it off and getting a built short block back. Not messing with CW had it 3 times already.


Yes I plan to do it myself. I know having it done professionally would be the ideal thing, but growing up building v8s and doing an ample amount of reading and research on building my own. I want this car to be done completely by me. Ive always grown up saying that a vehicle isnt really yours until you build it! :hellyeah:
 
I build all my own cars. I just don't assemble the short block. Had one from Buschur years ago that walked. And Ive had someone help me that's built many. And it's just
Not my cup of tea. Most shops don't have trouble building them these days. Seems honing it with a torque plate installed seems to help a lot. I used to know of DSM shops that wouldn't even build 7bolt motors. Because half of them walked in 1,000 miles. I'd just rather spend the money and not have to worry about it. Sad thing is if you want to make real power. Magnus' stage 3 short block is $4500. Ouch. $2,900 for the head. $7,400 for a block and head.

Also just got back from M&S those people crack me up. They just shoot prices from the hip. Seemed like everything was $65. Lol. I got a low mileage clutch master. Mine was pissing on my floor. Started getting hairy with my feet constantly slipping in it. It's nice now. Of course I did it at the base. Ripped me for $11.50. Snuck the enviro fee in there because I dumped an ounce of clutch fluid into the recycle. And I was in there an hour and 15 minutes. Trying to figure out why my brand new tranny had clear fluid all over the bottom of it. Looks like the passenger axle seal might be leaking. Just something else that needs fixing. Sucks though because theres $40 worth the tranny fluid in that thing.
 
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the 20G is a great pump gas friendly and street friendly turbo, though its great with E85 too! i would def recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade and boost in the 25psi range
 
Yeah if you have fluid on the floor under the clutch pedal. It's the master cylinder. I did mine yesterday. It's a good now. My clutch was releasing in all different places and I was topping the fluid off about once a week.
 
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