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Subs

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what happened to ikesound???

i was pissed when thezeb went under... now ikesound too? damn.


and yes DEI (directed electronics inc.) is the "company" that owns the brand names viper and directed, they are the same comany. But so are hifonics, crunch etc.. you still look for them under the individual brands...

And yes viper makes amps as well. http://www.dealtime.com/xPO-Dei_VIPER_400_2~CLT-HSNLF


Lunar.... i'm suprised that you have lightning on that list at all... LA falls on the list of "don't ever ever ever buy cause they suck so bad and don't put out even half their rated power" for me. Maybe you've had better experiences.
 
drivemusicnow said:
what happened to ikesound???

i was pissed when thezeb went under... now ikesound too? damn.


and yes DEI (directed electronics inc.) is the "company" that owns the brand names viper and directed, they are the same comany. But so are hifonics, crunch etc.. you still look for them under the individual brands...

And yes viper makes amps as well. http://www.dealtime.com/xPO-Dei_VIPER_400_2~CLT-HSNLF


Lunar.... i'm suprised that you have lightning on that list at all... LA falls on the list of "don't ever ever ever buy cause they suck so bad and don't put out even half their rated power" for me. Maybe you've had better experiences.


Haha. Sorry, my bad. Ikesound is still there, I got them confused with thezeb. Sorry.

BTW, I have never heard anythingbad about LA, they are decent, owned by fosgate.
 
i listen to Hardcore and rock and i am a drummer also. i have to hear the kick drum and feel it that is why i have one kicker solo 12 in. it is nice and i like it. i Also listen to the newamsterdams which is almost country and i love my sub to hear the baselines it just makes everything sound good and clear and you enjoy the music more.
 
How hard would it be to hook up both the subwoofers and amp? Also, a newbie question, what is parallel wiring? Sorry, I'm new to the car modding scene kind of, and new to the audio aspect of tuning. Any guides/tech articles to help assist me in hooking the system up or is it pretty straight forward?
 
jayman089 said:
How hard would it be to hook up both the subwoofers and amp? Also, a newbie question, what is parallel wiring? Sorry, I'm new to the car modding scene kind of, and new to the audio aspect of tuning. Any guides/tech articles to help assist me in hooking the system up or is it pretty straight forward?

It is pretty straight forward. Here is a nice article for wiring subs, the ones you have listed are dvc. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=145

on second thought, you might wanna ask a friend to help, or pay to have it done. It is easy enough to do, but if you have no clue what you are doing, it would be pretty easy to mes stuff up too.
 
If I'm guessing correctly, this is what how I would be wiring the subs up?
2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
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And then from the amp, do I just wire it to the battery and head unit? I have a buddy that recently wired up some Best Buy subs and an amp in his Ford Ranger. Should I see if he can give me a hand on wiring these up for me?
 

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You run a line from your battery to your amp(fuse inline within 12" from bat), then from the amp to ground. MAKE SURE you have a good ground, because that is where a lot of problems lie. Sand the paint of your grounding spot, make sure it is tight etc. Then you have to run your RCA's from the Headunit to the amp. If you are using a stock headunit, you will have to splice into the speaker wiring, and run those to the amp(I believe the MTX one had High level inputs). That is the basics of it. You should probably have your friend come help, or at least supervise.
 
Both amps will work, one just has a more power than the other. I was trying to keep it fairly cheap, but like with all things you get what you pay for. I have never used audiobahn, or known anyone who has, but lots of people do use it. The RMS rating for the speakers you listed was between 60-300. Both amps I listed fell in between those margins.

The main thing I worry about is not having any first hand knowledge of the audiobahn, and I know MTX amps are decent quality.
 
i know two people that have that exact amp they push it hard one with 2 MA audio 12s and the other has two audiobahn 12s and they have had them for over a year each. and still slam. If i was going to buy a new amp that is the exact one i am going to get.
 
will a sub box for two 12s fit directly behind the seats in the trunk or will the pillars for the strut bar interfere
 
jayman089 said:
If I'm guessing correctly, this is what how I would be wiring the subs up?
2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


And then from the amp, do I just wire it to the battery and head unit? I have a buddy that recently wired up some Best Buy subs and an amp in his Ford Ranger. Should I see if he can give me a hand on wiring these up for me?


If the amp is 1 ohm stable, run it "parallel / parallel" (the picture to the right of that one.)
 

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"will a sub box for two 12s fit directly behind the seats in the trunk or will the pillars for the strut bar interfere"

Yes they do interfere a bit depends on the box you have them put in or if you want some custom fiberglass setup. If you want to put two 12's in your trunk you might need a custom box which will cost a little bit more. Depends on the size of the original box. Also if you build it yourself you can save some cash, call around to the local audio shops in your area if you haven't already. Two 12's is a real tight fit, say goodbye to the trunk :)
 
Depends on the 12's like I said before. Not really that tight of a fit if you get the right speakers. I have two 12 inch kicker solobareks and the required airspace on each subwoofer is only just over a cubic foot, so your only taking up 2 feet of trunk space if you build the enclosure with two seperate enclosures of 1x1x1. Look up the specs on your speakers and build the box to match, not to bad, easy work. :)
 
To clarify i meant to seperate enclosures that are connected. Just two individual compartments inside the box.
 
sk8shorty01 said:
Depends on the 12's like I said before. Not really that tight of a fit if you get the right speakers. I have two 12 inch kicker solobareks and the required airspace on each subwoofer is only just over a cubic foot, so your only taking up 2 feet of trunk space if you build the enclosure with two seperate enclosures of 1x1x1. Look up the specs on your speakers and build the box to match, not to bad, easy work. :)


I am sure those take more space if you run a ported box though. Probably in the neighborhood of 1.5-2 cu. ft. I believe everyone should port their boxes, it is an easy way to gain an extra 3db, and the subs will also reach a lower level than with a sealed box.
 
snyper1982 said:
and the subs will also reach a lower level than with a sealed box.

Not true (not always). For the majority of users, sealed boxes will extend lower than a ported box.
 
remmargorp said:
Not true (not always). For the majority of users, sealed boxes will extend lower than a ported box.


I am not arguing with you.... Download winisd and play around with it if you think I am wrong. I can save you some time, I am not wrong....

-NOTE-
I am talking about PROPERLY designed boxes. You can make any box perform like crap.....
 
It is true for home audio and for an anechoic chamber. However this is IN CAR. You are going to need a really low tuning frequency and a rather large box to be able to have the subwoofer play lower than the sealed. With such a low tuning frequency the ported box would be pointless in car.
 
snyper1982 said:
I am not arguing with you.... Download winisd and play around with it if you think I am wrong. I can save you some time, I am not wrong....

-NOTE-
I am talking about PROPERLY designed boxes. You can make any box perform like crap.....


like the poster above me said... it depends on how you design the box. to make a truly effective ported box, the box would be HUGE... this is not really possible in many cars trunks.
 
OK dude.... believe what you want. I just took winisd input the specs for a 10-W7. set up 1 for sealed and 1 for ported. Both were set to JL's recomended box sizes. The sealed was nowhere near as good.


Here is a link to a screen shot. You tell me which extends lower, at a DB that is going to be audible.....


Here
 
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