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Stubborn Exhaust Manifold Stud "Broken" Worth it?

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ebb3ka94

Proven Member
41
0
Apr 22, 2013
Lincoln, Nebraska
So iv replaced all the broken exhaust manifold studs on my engine before I put my new short block in. For some reason every other one was easy, but one I cannot get out.. Engine is back in now, but was just wondering if its worth the trouble still to try and drill it out. I put 2 gaskets in to help hold the leak back a little better. But yeah, is it worth really worth the fuss to fix just one last stud, performance wise? Or wait and have a shop do it right and not be at fault :sneaky:
Thanks in advance for any advice :thumb:
 
So iv replaced all the broken exhaust manifold studs on my engine before I put my new short block in. For some reason every other one was easy, but one I cannot get out.. Engine is back in now, but was just wondering if its worth the trouble still to try and drill it out. I put 2 gaskets in to help hold the leak back a little better. But yeah, is it worth really worth the fuss to fix just one last stud, performance wise? Or wait and have a shop do it right and not be at fault :sneaky:
Thanks in advance for any advice :thumb:

Think you've answered yourself there...It is always easier to do it correctly the first time; seems like it'll always cost you more money and hassle later if you try to rig it up (2 gaskets :ohdamn:)

All the above applies even if that means paying someone else to do the service if you don't have the tools/ know how to get it done right.
 
Think you've answered yourself there...It is always easier to do it correctly the first time; seems like it'll always cost you more money and hassle later if you try to rig it up (2 gaskets :ohdamn:)

All the above applies even if that means paying someone else to do the service if you don't have the tools/ know how to get it done right.

When i gave up on it was because I couldn't drill into the stud what so ever no matter what I tried. Wont hurt anything to run that way for a month or 2 tho while i get settled(in the process of moving)? Just a 16g setup at 22psi thats tuned.
 
When i gave up on it was because I couldn't drill into the stud what so ever no matter what I tried. Wont hurt anything to run that way for a month or 2 tho while i get settled(in the process of moving)? Just a 16g setup at 22psi thats tuned.

You aren't using a good enough drill bit. If you're using a bit from wal-mart, autozone, etc it's not going to drill into the hardened steel stud. You need to get a good drill bit made out of titanium or cobalt steel to get the job done and then extract it once you get a hole in the center of it.
 
You aren't using a good enough drill bit. If you're using a bit from wal-mart, autozone, etc it's not going to drill into the hardened steel stud. You need to get a good drill bit made out of titanium or cobalt steel to get the job done and then extract it once you get a hole in the center of it.

Well seeing its back on and in the car, is it a bad idea to attempt it with the head still on? Its just the upper far right stud on the exhaust manifold. Did a complete AC delete so theres some room up front now aswell. Or would i sooner just have a local shop do it over my lunch break? I mean it should be under $50 right? Iv spent over 3k on this rebuild and install, so $50 and piece of mind seems appealing LOL. It is just getting to the point where I want the car done, been carless for 3 months riding a bicycle LOL
 
I've drilled and extracted many studs while the motor was in the car. Only issue is room for a drill. Most of the time I've had to remove the radiator to get enough room. More than worth having all bolts/studs there doing their job. Exhaust leak = power loss. Any leak of any sort is bad to me.
 
Yeah, well aware of the process just wondering about leaving the head on or is that a neanderthal attempt that shouldn't be done?

Either way you're spending more money. I just figured you could buy the tool to do it yourself and than have another tool for what you may get charged. That tool may not be the perfect match for this application but you catch my drift. The old pay for vs. DIY debate.
 
Either way you're spending more money. I just figured you could buy the tool to do it yourself and than have another tool for what you may get charged. That tool may not be the perfect match for this application but you catch my drift. The old pay for vs. DIY debate.

Ahh yesss, but it will last a month or 2 until i get time/money after i finish moving? I mean loss in power, while its probably noticeable on a dyno but hardly, probably no biggie in real life for a couple weeks right?. My last car a 03 GTI snapped a exhaust manifold stud while driving on super shitty roads that were made 100x worse by raceland coiloversROFL, but besides the annoying leak sound i couldnt let a difference in driving as far as power goes.
 
Iv spent over 3k on this rebuild and install, so $50 and piece of mind seems appealing LOL. It is just getting to the point where I want the car done, been carless for 3 months riding a bicycle LOL

$50-$100 for a 3k investment? Yes, all day. Sure, you might be okay but won't it be on your mind all the time?!
 
$50-$100 for a 3k investment? Yes, all day. Sure, you might be okay but won't it be on your mind all the time?!
Ill call around tomorrow, there is a shop that does work for under half labor here, they do the job right with no bs included, and one of my buddies just got a job there, it could honestly cost me next to nothing for me I guess. But if that fails what should i buy to do this? I have normal heavy duty drills for house work and well, my drill bits for metal are shot from this stupid stud.
 
I'd spend 30-40 bucks on some good drill bits and look for the possibility of buying a single extractor or buying a small set. That and Pb blaster.
 
I have had good luck getting broken steel bolts/studs out of aluminum by welding a nut to it. The heat generated by the welding process loosens it, sometimes to the point where it can be turned out with just my fingers. This can only be done if its broken off flush, or sticking out a little. I don't like drilling and using an extractor for two reasons: 1. While its possible, its tricky to drill a hard steel fastener out of soft aluminum. 2. If the hardened extractor breaks off, you're screwed!
 
Use a fine drift punch and lightly tap tap tap to get a good guide point for your initial drilling. Go real slow with the bit and plenty of cutting oil cant hurt. wd40 works as cutting oil in a pinch.
 
If you are not handy with a drill then get someone else to do it. Or practice drilling through a sililar sized bolt mounted at an odd angle in a vise to build some confidence. Definitely remove the radiator.

What's the worst thing that could happen?

  1. You could drill off-center or mis-aligned and ruin the threads in the head:ohdamn:
  2. You could drill too far - don't do that
  3. You could break off the drill bit or the easy-out, in the bolt
 
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