stroker head

[scottsee]

i've just ordered a 6 bolt knife edge 4g64 crank clevite bearings & weisco stroker postons. and im looking to complement the top end by taking my head into the mill shop and having him pound away for a couple days. i was wondering if anyone would beable to lend a little DSM knoledge with the head. the port and polish will be $189. the hot tank, checking for crack, mill, 1mm over, 5 deg angle will cost another $189 + parts. and they'll put it together. so. am i missing anything here? for head work?

2nd question. i've heard through the grape vine; this extra 12mm stroke likes to damage cylinder walls a little more than the regular 88mm crank. so this make me a little frightend to take the RPM'S over 8000. in that case im assumming i wont need Dual valve springs??

as far as the hardware i'll be using 92 cams (untell FP 2.3l grind cams come out) and SBR fantom knock eliminating lifters & stock rockers (i havent heard replacing stock rockers is important). i've kinda had my sights on the Ebay $200 Fierria valves and, crower springs. will titanium retainers even matter with that kind of supporting hardware?

does anyone have any recomendations, or considerations? prices seem reasionable? Thanks guys. Boost on!

 

[liquordrunk]

well getting dual valve springs is up to you since i went with ti retainers and springs from jacksonautomachine and SS valves for my build up 2.3l and a pnp.. but with a stroker you really dont have a need to go over 8 grand since your turbo will make gobs of power way before then. there are some guys on here runnin to 8500 and on but im sure if you went with duals it wouldnt hurt. its a little more money jsut depends on how you drive your car. i dont plan on runnin but to 8 grand at the track maybe

 

[scottsee]

i've looked at jacksons parts. their good prices. i've just never heard anything good/bad about them. as for the 8000rpm; im planing on sticking a scm61 on the ported 2g manny. hopefully i wont need to run it to 8000. which brings up another question i had. With all these intake manifolds on the market today (i've read the airflow comparisons thread) how am i suppose to make a decision with sticking with the stock 1g intake manifold or going sheetmetal. im not sure how airflow will be effected with the head being P&P, 5 angle, and the crank being 12mm over. will that significantly bottleneck my breathing using the 1g intake or should i be fine running in the 3000-6500rpm powerband??

thanks scott

 

[Slowboy]

i've just ordered a 6 bolt knife edge 4g64 crank clevite bearings & weisco stroker postons. and im looking to complement the top end by taking my head into the mill shop and having him pound away for a couple days. i was wondering if anyone would beable to lend a little DSM knoledge with the head. the port and polish will be $189. the hot tank, checking for crack, mill, 1mm over, 5 deg angle will cost another $189 + parts. and they'll put it together. so. am i missing anything here? for head work?

2nd question. i've heard through the grape vine; this extra 12mm stroke likes to damage cylinder walls a little more than the regular 88mm crank. so this make me a little frightend to take the RPM'S over 8000. in that case im assumming i wont need Dual valve springs??

as far as the hardware i'll be using 92 cams (untell FP 2.3l grind cams come out) and SBR fantom knock eliminating lifters & stock rockers (i havent heard replacing stock rockers is important). i've kinda had my sights on the Ebay $200 Fierria valves and, crower springs. will titanium retainers even matter with that kind of supporting hardware?

does anyone have any recomendations, or considerations? prices seem reasionable? Thanks guys. Boost on!

Yes, with a $189.00 port/ polish job.... please stay with stock diameter valves, they will flow better in this application.

Regards

MGH

 

[TurboSpoolinIns]

I personally think if you don't have to mod it, don't bother. I stuck with a stock head minus Crower springs and 272s and made 600+ whp easy on my 2.4L. Getting the head done is one of the last things I'd worry about. Just my .02.

 

[scottsee]

well i bought a 1g head, intake manifold, and throddle body for $100. it has a bunch of bent valves from the timming belt slipping. so it has to be re-done. i didnt know that the stock valves are better flowing then the 1mm over. sure about that??

stock valves, lifters, rocker arms. with springs and cams 600 hp?? do you go higher then 7500rpm??

 

[TurboSpoolinIns]

well i bought a 1g head, intake manifold, and throddle body for $100. it has a bunch of bent valves from the timming belt slipping. so it has to be re-done. i didnt know that the stock valves are better flowing then the 1mm over. sure about that??

stock valves, lifters, rocker arms. with springs and cams 600 hp?? do you go higher then 7500rpm??

Redline was set at 8200.

 

[scottsee]

well if no one has anything else to say i think i will take the advice and replace the bent valves with sock valves. replace the Springs, lifters & cams with performance friendly ones. and just have them hot tank, test, and P & P the head. Thanks..

 

[Lunch_Box]

i didnt know that the stock valves are better flowing then the 1mm over. sure about that??QUOTE]

He was saying in your aplication stock ones would be better. With a 2.4L the only head work you really need to do is get a set of cams.

 

[Slowboy]

well i bought a 1g head, intake manifold, and throddle body for $100. it has a bunch of bent valves from the timming belt slipping. so it has to be re-done. i didnt know that the stock valves are better flowing then the 1mm over. sure about that??

stock valves, lifters, rocker arms. with springs and cams 600 hp?? do you go higher then 7500rpm??

Yes, stock diameter valves outflow a 1mm over in an otherwise stock head. In order for us to get a 1 mm over valve to flow better than a stock diameter requires many, many, many hours of porting. Yes, we know this for sure, many hours on the flow bench tell us so

If you have more questions, post away.

Regards

MGH

 

[scottsee]

all right. will do. i've heard a few times that slowboy's revised lifters do alot to isolate or even eliminate phanton knock. i've also heard that when you replace cams new lifters are basicly manditory. so is there truth to my lifter story? or do new mitsu lifters provide the same defence as your revised lifters?

when im buying valves will there be any greater benifit in buying Manley or Ferrea standerd size valves then Mitu's valves?

are bronze valve guides going to provide longer lasting higher temp stability? or will iron guides provide the efficiency i'll need?

 

[Slowboy]

all right. will do. i've heard a few times that slowboy's revised lifters do alot to isolate or even eliminate phanton knock. i've also heard that when you replace cams new lifters are basicly manditory. so is there truth to my lifter story? or do new mitsu lifters provide the same defence as your revised lifters?

when im buying valves will there be any greater benifit in buying Manley or Ferrea standerd size valves then Mitu's valves?

are bronze valve guides going to provide longer lasting higher temp stability? or will iron guides provide the efficiency i'll need?

Our revised lifters have a larger oil passage, making them less prone to the dreaded lifter tick... 99% of the time, they cure the problem. We always suggest lifters when doing a cam swap, but simply to quiet them down.

Manley valves were made using our specs, and back cut angle on the valve itself. So, we know this combo works with our valve job here to produce very high flow #'s on a stock size valve.

Ferrea has a similar back angle, but is a few degrees off and seems to flow similar #'s, but not quite as well.

Either valve will yield higher flow #'s than a stock valve.

For 90% of the DSM population, iron guides will work just fine. However, with SS or Nitride valves we do suggest the bronze guides if money permits. Expect the cost of the guide plus $7-10 per guide for installation.

Regards

MGH