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nismoz

15+ Year Contributor
67
0
Nov 11, 2007
mt olive, North Carolina
Hello all, been a while as i dont frequent forums often but im somewhat stumped. No better place to seek advice than here.
Ok so I have searched to no end without any bit of a logical answer. 98 gst 5spd- 99gsx blackbox,walbro 255, fmic, hard intake pipe, bov dumped,safc2, 14psi stock turbo.
Car now (this is all come n go) at start up acts like its flooding out (actually its leanin out thou) but doesnt do it everytime, engine us warm when it occurs. Can b at high rpm cruise thru town and will lean out 16-17.1 an recover itself. Stock boost gauge wrks sometimes(reads off maf) but why is it only working sometimes(safc2 always shows a maf voltage), car seems like it hits 3k-4.5k rpm at any givin partial throttle and timing jumps up,boost comes on an car starts pulling hard with my changing throttle position... Im stumped on these things.im sure they are all related to one thing but maybe not..also get a very strong fuel odor anytime boost comes on above 8psi...
Ive changed maf,o2,cts, leak tested, safc2 adjustments up an down, tested an replaced good tps. If i think of anymore info i will post.thanks everyone

An bfor its said....have run it with vented an unvented bov, an cars runs absolutely no different. I do know some dsm's dont like dumped bov's..
 
Stated that car is all stock except what i oosted isnt stock.
Up and down meaning values in the safc2.
Ive owned many turbo cars along with made many cars turbo using apexi products so id like to think i know them but maybe you know more!?
That sentence should have read "car pulls hard WITHOUT my changing throttle position"
Wot afr really has no relation hear since i can control it fine and never made mention of it but by the time i read your last question it was pretty obvisous you started typing without reading the entire post.... With respect, 3 of ur 5 questions were answered befor you asked and the other 2 were irrelevant....wouldnt you agree?
 
CAS maybe bad? I post this because this just happened to me last week.

Where sometimes the car idled fine sometimes it would Rev up to 2k, I got extremely lucky before this started I was in boost (35psi) on a cold night at 8200rpms. right at my shift point, I had just backed off the gas when the rpms just dropped to 6500 momentarily then right back up to 8000 on deceleration.
after that, that is when all of the rpm jumping, no start, wierd idle, sometimes start and idled fine happened.
I rember reading a post about the CAS goes bad. lucky I had one from my old car in my tool box at home. swapped it out and car ran perfect.
they are extremely easy to swap. if you have a friend that loan you one to test
maybe worth a shot.
otherwise - guessing maybe the safc2 and the black box be the culprit
 
Why are you using a safc when you have a reflashable ecu. Sell the safc and get the openport cable so you can actually tune the correct way. The safc is probably most of your problem being youve tapped into ecu wires.
 
Why are you using a safc when you have a reflashable ecu. Sell the safc and get the openport cable so you can actually tune the correct way. The safc is probably most of your problem being youve tapped into ecu wires.

^^^This... Why on earth having a perfectly good blackbox would anybody still use an SAFC? It's like using a pocket knife to sharpen a pencil having a perfectly good pencil sharpener right next to you.
 
Stated that car is all stock except what i oosted isnt stock.
Up and down meaning values in the safc2.
Ive owned many turbo cars along with made many cars turbo using apexi products so id like to think i know them but maybe you know more!?
That sentence should have read "car pulls hard WITHOUT my changing throttle position"
Wot afr really has no relation hear since i can control it fine and never made mention of it but by the time i read your last question it was pretty obvisous you started typing without reading the entire post.... With respect, 3 of ur 5 questions were answered befor you asked and the other 2 were irrelevant....wouldnt you agree?

I don't see anywhere you stated car is all stock except what you mentioned? As others have said, why are you trying to tune with SAFC on a black box? In fact, if your injectors are stock, FPR is stock, then you shouldn't really need a tune at all. The 255 will overrun the stock FPR to begin with. IMO go back to the stock tune until you can get a proper fuel setup plus a better tuning solution. I'm not trying to be a dick at all and at first I was genuinely trying to help. Good luck.
 
Slowwhite: thanks for your help post being you are the only one who did post something possibly helpful

The rest of you: thanks i suppose for your suggestion to tune ecu but considering i alrdy knew that you done me no good...i stated ive been lookn into this for a while now, car run the same wat when i got it....completely stock.... The safc is only there to bak fuel trims down at wot, low th isnt being used (safcs have that ability if you know much about them) i dont have a wot issue.
Reread the post if you need to but veiw the car as all stock since the issue was alrdy there... The things installed were done with the issue as dsm's run rich i was able to lean wot without much effort at the time, if i ever get around to installing the garrett t04e an 660 inj at that time ill tune the ecu but at the point im at its pointless unless i wanna be a net troll in say "wow im tuned wit xxxx the many different brands....." but im not here to impress anyone.... On the other hand my bmw has a gt35 on it so yea it has a $1500 ability to be tuned by my laptop.. An the gsx blackbox was installed because my car was one of those that wouldnt set the monitors for the emission inspections.
 
Last edited:
Oneslowdsm: you did mention something that caught my attention though....
You say a 255 will overun the stock fpr (how is that?) i was thinking about putting a afpr on my shelf on it but kept saying, im getting a lean cond not a rich one.
 
That makes so much sense, lets lean out the ecu at wot by tricking it and hacking the ecu wires instead of just doing it right the first time! Sounds like you have a lot to learn about these cars. ANY stock dsm can benefit from a PROPER TUNE.
 
Reread the post if you need to but veiw the car as all stock since the issue was alrdy there... The things installed were done with the issue as dsm's run rich i was able to lean wot without much effort at the time, if i ever get around to installing the garrett t04e an 660 inj at that time ill tune the ecu but at the point im at its pointless unless i wanna be a net troll in say "wow im tuned wit xxxx the many different brands....." but im not here to impress anyone.... On the other hand my bmw has a gt35 on it so yea it has a $1500 ability to be tuned by my laptop.. An the gsx blackbox was installed because my car was one of those that wouldnt set the monitors for the emission inspections.

Out of all that rambling the only thing I could decipher was that you didn't do a great work on the OP explaining that the problem was apparent before you installed the SAFC and the blackbox. Verify the cam sensor isn't going bad, it might be the culprit and just randomly pulling timing.
 
ONEFAST2GDSM: you DUMBFU*K guess you cannot read the dsmtuners message directly below the reply box????? Nvm dont answer i dont care to here your response leave my post your a worthless pos net troll...btw you lean it at wot cause a 2g dsm typically runs 10:2 afr at wot.maybe you should learn a dsm as ive owned 4, blown none. Have fun at your mcdonalds job tomarrow...yea you can go start a new thread an talk about my grammer to since trolls always go that route like the net is english class or something.....

Adr: i stated in the post about the timing as it seems like that could be the cause so maybe your on to something. Does the cas have anything to do with the stock boost gauge? I know this gauge is somehow tied to the maf, my gauge randomly works but havent located why yet and if the maf is goin dead everytime the factory boost gauge isnt working then it would affect timing even causing a limp mode in the ecu correct.
 
Never said leaning it out was wrong or hacking it. I said using a safc is hacking and wrong when you have a PERFECTLY GOOD REFLASHABLE ECU to do it the CORRECT WAY instead of rigging it with a safc.
 
Adr: i stated in the post about the timing as it seems like that could be the cause so maybe your on to something. Does the cas have anything to do with the stock boost gauge? I know this gauge is somehow tied to the maf, my gauge randomly works but havent located why yet and if the maf is goin dead everytime the factory boost gauge isnt working then it would affect timing even causing a limp mode in the ecu correct.

The CAS doesn't have anything to do with the gauge. The gauge depends on two things, MAF and TPS readouts and the ECU calculates the "value". It might also be a connection issue on the gauge, they aren't the best "gauges" in the world. If you can see signal from the MAF through the SAFC there shouldn't be any issue with the MAF. Maybe the TPS is screwed? That could also cause issues of flooding/leaning and fluctuating timing. Unfortunately you don't have a Tactrix with your blackbox to be able to log the voltage value and see if there is a sudden drop or spike per sensor. That would have been able to tell you which sensor is screwed.
 
AdR: sorry Im an engineer by profession an been real busy the past few days so havent had time to check on the things you have mentioned, but Thanks for your help, ive searched many places to find the link between the maf and factory boost gauge and never seen anything on the matter matter. I will check the cas, tps, mdp sensor on the intake as soon as time permits. Can you explain the exact job of the manifold differential pressure sensor and how its tied to what? Thanks again
 
AdR: sorry Im an engineer by profession an been real busy the past few days so havent had time to check on the things you have mentioned, but Thanks for your help, ive searched many places to find the link between the maf and factory boost gauge and never seen anything on the matter matter. I will check the cas, tps, mdp sensor on the intake as soon as time permits. Can you explain the exact job of the manifold differential pressure sensor and how its tied to what? Thanks again

The Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor is there solely to check the function of the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) valve. In more modified cars, it is wholly useless. Your in-dash boost gauge gets it's signal from the "Volume Air Flow Sensor" which is your MAF/MAS. It does not actually show manifold pressure, but rather an estimation based on what the MAF/MAS gathered from the due to: Intake Air Temp, Barometric Pressure, and Airflow.
 
Calling people dumbfvcks after they try helping fix your ignorance will only get your thread closed and reward you a warning around here. This forum hasn't changed since 2007 when you created your account, I recommend the next time someone takes their time to help you you thank them or you won't be posting around here any longer.

Maybe you can't fix your car because you can't remember what your problems are? :idontknow:

Car now (this is all come n go) at start up acts like its flooding out...
..also get a very strong fuel odor anytime boost comes on above 8psi...
You say a 255 will overun the stock fpr (how is that?) i was thinking about putting a afpr on my shelf on it but kept saying, im getting a lean cond not a rich one.

/CLOSED.
 
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