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Strange bucking.....

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RiffRaff

Probationary Member
22
0
Feb 14, 2005
Pepperell, Massachusetts
I just bought this car, its a 1g talon tsi awd. the engine was very recently rebuilt and the body is in great shape. However there is an awkward bucking when i punch it. Mainly between 25 and 35 grand. I know there is a MBC but do not know how its configured. I was also told there is a new clutch installed. Anyone got any idea?
 
i've seen the same symptoms for low/burn diff or t-case fluid as well as worn u-joints. Might not be the problem but its somewhere to start.
 
I also had like bucking and car hasitating at arroung like 3K rpms and i changed my plugs and it went awey. Its like a new car. Just get like NGK plugs since they are OEM replacement. I didnt change my wires though. Do I have to? Someone tell me please. Do you feel any differents? Thanks.
 
if this car has an aftermarket turbo and is running a fairly good amount of boost. and by some chance the guy before you didn't upgrade the fuel system, you'll get bucking when you punch it @ higher boost levels, i don't know about that early in RPM tho, a big turbo usually doesn't build that much boost so early. if thats not the case then maybe you are running to rich and you fouled out your spark plugs or maybe one of your spark plug wires is arcing. let us know what you found :thumb: :dsm:
 
thanks alot for the advice guys. I went out and bought plugs and wires today. unfortunaly they werent in stock so ill have to get back to you in a couple of days. Im almost positive that the car still has the stock turbo however it does have an MBC which i think i might remove becase im pretty much a noob and i dont want to pushing my car without it running perfectly. again i thank you for your help and ill get back to everyone on this.
 
RiffRaff said:
thanks alot for the advice guys. I went out and bought plugs and wires today. unfortunaly they werent in stock so ill have to get back to you in a couple of days. Im almost positive that the car still has the stock turbo however it does have an MBC which i think i might remove becase im pretty much a noob and i dont want to pushing my car without it running perfectly. again i thank you for your help and ill get back to everyone on this.
be4 u go off and start replacing things that may not need replaced, check to see if their actually the cause of the problem. i've replaced alot of stuff just cause i didn't check it. i'd either get a friend 2 help u check it w/ his tools or what not if you don't have em. just tryin 2 save u time and frustration, not 2 mention $$ :dsm:
 
I wouldn't bother removing the MBC. Just turn her down a bit if you're that worried about it. Otherwise you'll need to replace it with another aftermarket boost controller or the OE boost control solenoid (BCS). Of course, if you have no aftermarket boost guage, maybe you should put the BCS back in.

Besides, after a day of driving around at stock boost levels, you'll be right back under the hood re-installing it. :laser:
 
I was going to install the plugs and wires today but the mitsu dealer was closed. I was pissed.
 
RiffRaff said:
I was going to install the plugs and wires today but the mitsu dealer was closed. I was pissed.
Hopefully they were closed today too. Buy your spark plugs at NAPA. Advanced Auto or what ever they have out in the Boston Area. You want NGK BPR6ES plugs stock number 7131 and gap them to 0.028". For wires the accel 7920R or NGK 9571 will be perfect and cost less than the dealer.

Steve
 
I picked up the plugs and wires today, currently installing them. thank you for the gap on the plugs.
 
So i replaced the plugs and wires today. Sorry i didnt do it faster im in the NE area and the weather here has sucked major ass. Anyway the car runs like a charm thanks alot for your help guys. Ive found another problem though. when i get on it and im in gear all of a sudden the car just slams like something major is/did broke but the car still runs well. Im thinking it could be my u joints. Any thoughts?
 
RiffRaff said:
when i get on it and im in gear all of a sudden the car just slams like something major is/did broke but the car still runs well.
Does it feel like you just hit a wall but runs find it you back off a bit? That would be fuel cut and means it's time to fix all your boost leaks.

Steve
 
can a fule trim really feel like im hitting a wall? I mean it really slams and like you described it does ride smooth after i let off. I was searching around and i noticed that people were putting an epoxy in a certain spot in the rear end.
 
steve said:
That would be fuel cut and means it's time to fix all your boost leaks.

Fuel cut is computer-controlled. Boost is probably higher than 14-15 psi. Best bet is to take off the boost controller or simply just back the screw out almost all the way so your pushing stock boost.
 
Yea ill have to fix the MBC. Ive been getting almost 17lbs of boost. Which i really dont like considering i may damage my car. Its not on the road right now im having terrible issues with the title. Once that is fixed its going to be my DD'er. I also cant run the car right now i have the key lock taken apart since it wasnt working properly, have to take that to a lock smith.
 
You shouldn't need to fix anything on the MBC short of just setting her to about 14 or 15 lbs. o' boost and going for a few runs. If you're still getting MAF overrun (i.e. fuel cut) then turn it down a bit more until it goes away. Ideally, you should have something to show you how much knock you're getting, if any and how your O2 sensor feels about the situation. Some sort of data logging device like a Pocketlogger would be a wise investment.

I know you might not have all the details on the car as yet so it's difficult for you to supply a modification list at the moment. However, if we assumed you were driving a stock 1G on 93 octane, then you should be able to get away with 15-16 lbs., depending on the condition of your fuel system and local temperatures. In fact the previous owner might have tried to push those limits a bit, hoping to impress prospective buyers during the test drive.

Also, this car may be "new" to you, but on a used vehicle it's always a best to assume that the previous owner never did any maintenance. Meaning, those things that often get over looked buy the casual driver like plugs and wires, nasty old fluids (brake, clutch, coolant, etc.), transmission oils (don't forget the rear differential), and the ever important timing belt should all be changed as soon as you can afford to do so. Of course, there are quite a few regular maintenance items you'll want to check before you start throwing on performance parts, but take care of those few things first and you'll already be a step ahead of most.
 
thanks alot for the recomendations, im currently having some issues with the title but that should be cleared up soon. I really want to fix this car up right and once i get it on the road i plan to change everything on it. All the fluids tires, already did the plugs and wires and really go through the car. Again thanks alot for the help.
 
The EPOXY issue you spoke about was covering the transfer case yoke to prevent/stop a leak.Have the case oil level checked.
 
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