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Strange Brakeing issue?

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BlackMount

10+ Year Contributor
803
2
Jan 20, 2010
Monroe, Wisconsin
Coming home from a Car meet tonight and I noticed that after I drive for a little bit then come to a stop light, when I brake the brake pedal had gone soft, but if i release it then press it again, it firms up and feels normal. :confused:

Can anyone explain this?

The only thing I can think of that might cause this is We had a Burnout Contest at the Meet, and I did a E-brake Stand..... I got 2nd Best..... RX8 1st, Shelby GT500, 3rd, S\C mustang 4th, Built Camero 5th. (none of them did any brake stands for somereason :( they just burned out and left.)
It's dark out so I couldn't really look around, I figured I'll wait till morning and look in the daylight.

all help is appreciated.
 
You boiled your fluid.

I'm assuming you held the brake and floored it. The brakes were fighting the wheels and heated up, boiling the fluid, creating a pocket.

Bleed your lines with fresh fluid.:thumb:
 
Most common problem based on the symptoms you describe is air in the lines. Try bleeding the brakes.
 
You boiled your fluid.

I'm assuming you held the brake and floored it. The brakes were fighting the wheels and heated up, boiling the fluid, creating a pocket.

Bleed your lines with fresh fluid.:thumb:

Damn Haha, I thought E-Brake only held the back tires? or are DSM's different or something?

Most common problem based on the symptoms you describe is air in the lines. Try bleeding the brakes.

Gonna try that tomorrow after I pick up some more fluid
 
Damn Haha, I thought E-Brake only held the back tires? or are DSM's different or something?
Gonna try that tomorrow after I pick up some more fluid

Well, on 1gs they actuate the calipers on the rear brakes. Don't you think that it would also increase pressure through the WHOLE system? Since there wasn't air moving over the car, there is a chance that the front calipers were heated from the transmission and tires. But I don't do burn outs, so I wouldn't know.:confused:
 
I think what they mean is that the brake fighting to keep the rear from moving while the front was pulling could have caused it to heat up and boil the fluid. The problem you explained sounds like air in the lines so I would also suggest bleeding the lines and see if that helps.
 
Well, on 1gs they actuate the calipers on the rear brakes. Don't you think that it would also increase pressure through the WHOLE system? Since there wasn't air moving over the car, there is a chance that the front calipers were heated from the transmission and tires. But I don't do burn outs, so I wouldn't know.:confused:

thats cause your AWD LOL.


I'm not sure I figured some how i got air in my brakes so i planned on bleeding them....

I got another question: I tightened my E-brake not long ago because it wasn't holding the car very well on steeper hills. and it started making this loud Humming noise at higher speeds and that's very annoying, and embarrassing when driving through town, so I loosen it, and it went away. but then it came back, so i loosen it some more, went away..THEN CAME BACK AGAIN! It's very annoying...

FYI I Have EBC Brake Pads on all 4 Rotors, and EBC Cross Drilled Rotors on back.
 
Do you have 4 discs (rotor) or drums in the back?
I had some problems with my brakes 97 gst after rolling for a while they would`nt work like they should, so i installed cross drilled rotors and had no more issues the problem was that they heat up very fast
 
Do you have 4 discs (rotor) or drums in the back?
I had some problems with my brakes 97 gst after rolling for a while they would`nt work like they should, so i installed cross drilled rotors and had no more issues the problem was that they heat up very fast


All DSM's came with 4 Rotors, even the Base models. The Cross Drilled Rotors are in the back, Normal ones on front, but I pan to get some cross Drilled this spring for the front.

I still brake just as good, when the brake pedal is goes soft, I just have to push it further to stop in the same amount of time.


The car Brakes amazingly well. My buddy has a 1990 GS-T and it doesn't brake near as good as mine does. its amazing the difference with just those to 2 Cross Drilled Rotors and a set of EBC Brake Pads,
 
It is a hydraulic system the more you pump it you will get more pedal pressure. Regardless just bleed the system or that might just be how it is. If you have problems with your car moving on hills with the e-brake up you should be tightening it and not loosening it. That squealing noise could be a bad wheel bearing.
 
It is a hydraulic system the more you pump it you will get more pedal pressure. Regardless just bleed the system or that might just be how it is. If you have problems with your car moving on hills with the e-brake up you should be tightening it and not loosening it. That squealing noise could be a bad wheel bearing.

It's not the hubs I know that. because it started only making it while backing out and going very slowly, then it started when I'd lightly touch the brakes (for some reason my car has a 40\60 Brake set up instead of a 60\40 like most cars I've driven. (Front Braking Power\Rear Braking Power) On ice if i felt like having some fun, id stomp the brake and the back end would always lock up first and cause me to 180 <<< lots of fun actually) and eventually it just started doing it all the time except at speeds faster then 45-50ish. Now when I brake, if i brake harder like im coming to a stoplight the noise dissaperres. <<<Thats how I know its not my hubs. and my friend with a 93 Talon Non Turbo has bad wheel hubs (Like uber bad) and it sounds nothing like mine.


I'm just gonna keep loosening the ebrake till it wont hold anymore or it goes away.

Cause i did tighten it quite a bit (oops)
 
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