Spyder Stock motor mounts

[Drewzdude]

How much HP can stock motor mounts handle before they break?

 

[Mech Addict]

I’d be surprised if there is a simple answer to this. You’re probably referring to the stock rubber isolators, and not the metal brackets. Those do flex more than poly inserts, and some people swap to poly even with modest power, for the perceived improvement in throttle response. I have no first hand experience, but haven’t seen posts describing ripped rubber mounts that were reasonably new simple from high power production. The mounting system on these cars separates the two functions of holding up the engine/ transmission weight and resisting wheel torque among two pairs of mounts. The roll stoppers primarily counter the torque, and some folks swap only those to handle higher output, leaving the driver’s side and trans mounts with rubber for less vibration. With time and use, the rubber will start tearing. If yours look good, then probably not a concern. If you want the stiffer action of poly, they’re not very expensive.
The good thing is they are one of the easiest parts to change at a later point.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Most people just replace them with prothane because its easier to just do it once so you dont have to mess with the stock ones breaking down over and over. There is also aluminum if youre really getting up there, but more vibration you feel on the inside, the stiffer you go. What HP are you shooting for that its of concern?

 

[curt-s]

There's no set HP/torque.
If I had a set of good OE ones, I'd swap out these Prothanes for them in a heartbeat.
My last 1G had full mounts, no inserts, but was FWD so it was supposed to control wheel hop. The wheels never hopped, except in the rain. I don't think that was the mounts, I think that had to do with the bonkers torque curve of a 16G equipped FWD with an open diff.
This AWD car came with a combination. While it's better than full on, it's still too much vibration for my 40 year old ass.

 

[Mech Addict]

FYI, the driver's side OEM-style mount is now a rarity. I watched them go from $35 to $150 to not available at all in the span of 6 months. I'm sure there must be some out there somewhere, but the manufacturers have stopped making them. I believe, though I'm not certain, that you can take one for a 1.8L and it is dimensionally that same, only with even flimsier rubber isolator. This is because of the larger "windows" in the rubber. When I spoke with a tech rep at Anchor (makes lots of mounts) he said you could take one of those and fill the windows with windshield gasket material, and they would be about the same as 2.0L turbo stock mount. One could probably use something a little stiffer and try that.
And yes, at the other extreme are aftermarket mounts that are simply aluminum brackets with no dampening material to them. Vibrations and drivetrain peak stress will respond accordingly.

 

[Drewzdude]

Most people just replace them with prothane because its easier to just do it once so you dont have to mess with the stock ones breaking down over and over. There is also aluminum if youre really getting up there, but more vibration you feel on the inside, the stiffer you go. What HP are you shooting for that its of concern?

600 my goal I was looking at the ones that say torque on them reading says there rates to 1000+ HP XD

 

[Drewzdude]

600 my goal I was looking at the ones that say torque on them reading says there rates to 1000+ HP XD

All the mounts together is lil over 400 bucks

 

[Drewzdude]

Was off it's $495

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[chrysler kid]

Use prothane inserts for the front and rear engine roll mounts. The aftermarket factory style ones are really flimsy, the rubber composition is not as strong as the originals. The motor can rotate itself front to back too much for my liking when you release the clutch pedal from a stop

Side effects no one talks about, but the factory turbo charger hoses were rubber and flexible, aftermarket intercooler kits are basically fixed position intercooler piping. So if you have aluminum piping and the motor vibrates or has movement, the intercooler couplers take all of that stretch from the turbo moving up or down with the motor(on stock motor mounts). Its usually not significant movement, but it was so bad on one of my cars I could hear the lower intercooler pipe hit the radiator support when I let the clutch out from a stop.

 

[Drewzdude]

Thank you everyone for helping me with my build it truly means a lot.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Those Torque Solutions are top of the line, theres cheaper options out there for prothane, but Im not the one to tell you whether the more expensive option = better in this case... . You should research to find out because that could be more money that you can devote to other parts if cheaper inserts would do just as good a job for your project.

 

[Drewzdude]

Those Torque Solutions are top of the line, theres cheaper options out there for prothane, but Im not the one to tell you whether the more expensive option = better in this case... . You should research to find out because that could be more money that you can devote to other parts if cheaper inserts would do just as good a job for your project.

Funny thing I already bought everything else full rebuild so might as well

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Funny thing I already bought everything else full rebuild so might as well

Hey man... im just saying you could go cheaper AND have a lifetime supply of christmas tree air fresheners... ... but if you want to miss out, thats on you.

 

[Drewzdude]

Hey man... im just saying you could go cheaper AND have a lifetime supply of christmas tree air fresheners... ... but if you want to miss out, thats on you.

If I would have known a while ago before I was 17 g's in it's like an addiction I guess that's what my friends and family tell me

 

[Drewzdude]

Gotta get the best everything hahaha