stock car running rich, why??HELP!

[EuroGSTSpyder]

I have a bone stock tsi 1991.
Its runing rich wich causes me not to pass emissions due to high HC values.
Now I have new plugs, new wires, safc set to 0 correction(not putin my tuning parts yet) so it should be running bone stock but its running rich :-(
My LFT goes from 109 to 137 and I know it doesnt go any higher..doesnt matter if I correct on teh safc, the LFT wont change and go down.

Seriously..what do I need to check up on here..I am out of clues.
My PCV valve is working correctly as well I have cleaned it up and its not clogged in any way, routed back to intake.

Give me some pointers here cause I cannot drive my car unless I pas emissions, please help me out!!

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

I ordered a new O2 sensor now as well sinc hte replacement I put in had meleted wires..I fixed that but myabe it took a fall and got burned or soemthing cause the readings are not good...at wot I get max .78 no matter what....and it sometimes just goes 0,00 on me as well..think it was toast when the cables melted together. Hope the new sensor will help out!

 

[luv2rallye]

Also test your coolent temp sender for ECU (not gauge one). If bad ECU will think engine is always cold and richin mixture.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

ok how do I do that?

 

[marcmsj]

Having a high fuel trim doesn't necessarily mean you're running rich, it means the computer is adding more fuel since the O2 sensor is telling it that you're running lean. I would check the O2 sensor, at least take it out and spray it with some brake clean.

If you have an air fuel ratio gauge, check to see that it's in closed loop (lights bouncing up and down) whenever you're not at wide open throttle. If it does, then you're not running rich.

0.78 at WOT is not rich.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

well I ordered a new OEM o2 sensor since I think this one is fugged up...i know its supposed to bounce but sometimes it just reads dead 0.00 even while driving so something is wrong with it. Now the LFT went down to 85 after cleaning TB and replacing shaft seals.
Coolant temp is reading as it should so the sensor ther sems ok.

This is a weird car **

 

[spyderturbo007]

ok how do I do that?

You need to check it on your logger, not the gauge. There are two different sending units on the thermostat housing for the gauge and the ECU.

 

[staticbrainwash]

Leak test as well. That can cause even a stock car to run real crazy.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

boost leak test done, only a leak at the TB seals and that is now replaced, new test to follow.

Logger is reading temp jus tfine, 190-200ish when fully warmed up.

However I noticed my idle switch was hangin on a trhread...basicly on a thread It was just like one wire inside the wire holding it together..wich probably caused my weird idle lately.Fixed that and now it runs smoother on idle again. One bug at the time, one at the time and I am home free soon enough**

 

[luv2rallye]

Logger is reading temp jus tfine, 190-200ish when fully warmed up.

Sounds good but just to be sure measure the resistance of the temp sensor that the ECU uses. There are two temp sensors next to each other under the thermostat. The one with 1 wire is for the dash temp gauge. The one with 2 wires is the one for the ECU which you should unplug and measure between the 2 terminals. At 68F (20C) it should measure 2450 ohms (+/- 240). At 176F (80C) it should measure 296 ohms (+/- 32). If way out of this range replace it as it is misleading the ECU.