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Still can't get clutch adjusted properly

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nelliott500

Proven Member
337
20
Mar 24, 2013
Oxford, Connecticut
This has been an ongoing issue so far. Here is what has been done so far:

- trans rebuilt by Jack's
- new Exedy stage 1 clutch
- new ACT Streetlite flywheel
- new OEM TOB
- new OEM pivot ball
- new OEM clutch fork
- new OEM slave cylinder
- swapped out master cylinder with a spare (no change)
- rebuilt clutch pedal assembly but it still had play in it so I had the lever welded today with a bronze bushing
- pulled trans again to check pressure plate bolt torque (torqued to 18 lbs)
- clutch has been bled quite a few times

My concerns:

1. When following Jack's video on adjusting your clutch properly, I don't achieve the same result that he does. He says that, after you adjust the master rod out far enough, you will lock up the slave and not be able to push it in by hand. I haven't been able to get to that point. I can adjust the master rod out just short of all the way (maybe one thread holding it to the clevice) and I can still push in the slave.
2. Flywheel step height. I didn't have this checked before installing it in the car. I contacted ACT and they said that, from the factory, the flywheel is cut to a .612" step height. I contacted Exedy and they say their stage 1 clutch requires a .610" step. Is .002" difference enough to cause clutch drag?
3. The M8 trans bolt at the front of the trans (goes through hole in block and threads in to trans) isn't torqued properly. It's flush with the block but not torqued because something must be wrong with the helicoil that I did (my buddy snapped off the bolt and it destroyed the threads). I don't know what the issue is but it won't torque. I'm going to have to redo the helicoil in the future but I don't know if that would cause clutch drag.

Any ideas? I know the pedal play is 100% gone. Without the master rod hooked up, the pedal travels to the floor and back up to the top without stopping anywhere.

I've read about some people having success with installing a 2g master cylinder rod because it's longer than the 1g version and gives you more room for adjustment. I'm at the point of finding one of them unless someone else has an idea. I don't like the idea of an extended slave cylinder because that could preload the clutch but I feel okay with a longer master rod because that should allow me to adjust the master to be right on and not cause premature wear.
 
Check to make sure that the trans isn't pushing away from the block where the helicoil is messed up. I have seen that be a problem before.
 
I was told back when I was troubleshooting my clutch issue that you wouldn't receive the same results with the 1g slave like you would the 2g in Jacks video because something is different with the 2g system. I'm trying to find what the difference was, but the method in Jacks video is the proper way you adjust it though.
 
I've read quite a few threads and never saw anything about that. That's very useful information if it's true but I don't see how it would be different. Unless I'm missing something, clutch master cylinder design should be the same for any hydraulic clutch system. That's just how they work.
 
Ya pretty much just lay under there and watch while someone presses the clutch pedal in
 
I've read quite a few threads and never saw anything about that. That's very useful information if it's true but I don't see how it would be different. Unless I'm missing something, clutch master cylinder design should be the same for any hydraulic clutch system. That's just how they work.

Slave my friend. I'll post the info explaining once I found out that it was.
 
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