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Steel Mesh Air Filters

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tunerinms

Probationary Member
11
0
Jan 19, 2009
Jackson, Mississippi
Hello I am new to this forum but have been reading a lot and doing my research on question I had so I did not have to post many questions. One thing I did not find on this site was anything about steel mesh filters. Im talking about the solid wire mesh ones. Are there any pros to them or just cons? I had one because it was the cheapest ( may be my answer right there ) and I took it off today to put a new K&N on and when I turned it upside down a lot of trash fell out. Just wanted to get some opinions and facts on them.
Thanks,
Tuner
 
More on the K & N:

Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt.

From Debunking the K&N Myth - Why OEM is Better.

Especially note the dust loading curves close to the bottem of the page. Here's the conclusion:

The other filters, most notably the oiled reusable types, had an exponential loading response before reaching maximum restriction. These filters had a lower initial restriction, but they became exponentially more restrictive under a constant flow of dirt.

I would have to clean the filter AT LEAST 6 times for every 1 oem filter for it to show the same madian flow over the life of the filter. Where's the savings over time vs. an oem if I have to use that much cleaner and oil? I'd have to maintain the filter every week to get the maximum flow advantage. All for 18 times more dust into my compressor wheel???:notgood:

Not suprising, a wix filter seamed to strike the best balance between initial restriction, time between servicing, and flow as dust is loading up to maximum capacity.

Excellent article, thanks for posting it. I've read a few good comparitive airfilter tests but this is by far the most comprehensive:thumb: I never did believe K&N's bullshit about their filters working better loaded up with more dirt. Everybody who runs a K&N knows that this extra dirt just gets sucked thru the cotton gauze.

The cheapest intake system for a 2g would be to completely remove the snorkel from the fender duct off the airbox. Then go ahead and cut a bigger inlet opening of at least 4" or so. Leave the stock airfilter in their with the stock airbox in place. Then go ahead and replace the turbo/maf intake pipe with whatever aftermarket offers and you have nearly as much flow as any aftermarket setup PLUS you have some built in heat shielding:thumb: This is the same setup I run on my +300 h.p. STi and I'm as fast with this setup as I am with an open style short ram K&N Typhoon setup, actually faster in the hot summer months.
 
...The cheapest intake system for a 2g would be to completely remove the snorkel from the fender duct off the airbox. Then go ahead and cut a bigger inlet opening of at least 4" or so. Leave the stock airfilter in their with the stock airbox in place. Then go ahead and replace the turbo/maf intake pipe with whatever aftermarket offers and you have nearly as much flow as any aftermarket setup PLUS you have some built in heat shielding:thumb: This is the same setup I run on my +300 h.p. STi and I'm as fast with this setup as I am with an open style short ram K&N Typhoon setup, actually faster in the hot summer months.

This is exactly what I have on my car right now.I cut most of the fender side of the box away along with about 1/4 of the bottom. My intake temps stay pretty low, especially with it being only 8 degrees out right now. ROFL
 
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