starter problems

[AMPPRC]

car starts when just turning the key to the on position. i can still here the starter running when the car is already started. the starter continues to run for about 5 secs when i turn the car off and take the key out. i checked all the grounds they are good. what else could be the problem?

 

[delta448]

The starter is wired incorrectly or has a short. Take it off and check the small gauge wiring to the solenoid.

 

[AMPPRC]

The starter is wired incorrectly or has a short. Take it off and check the small gauge wiring to the solenoid.

it has been working alright for twoo weeks and i go to start my car up today and it just started happing

 

[delta448]

Then it's probably a short. Somehow the solenoid is getting continuous power, my guess is it's from the nearby heavy gauge starter motor positive wire.

 

[AMPPRC]

this problem started when ever i had the key in the ignition and i turned all the way forward. then went under the hood and moved this wire.

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and then the car just started up.

bump

 

[AMPPRC]

I have put a new ignition switch, starter, and starter solenoid. And it is still doing the same thing. What else could it be?

 

[delta448]

What else could it be?

Then it's probably a short.

I can't see the picture from my work computer, but it sounds like whatever wire you moved needs to be cross-checked for continuity with the starter solenoid signal wire.

 

[AMPPRC]

The picture is off the the coolant temp sensor

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

so if it satys engaged then Im guessing it makes that grinding sound correct? I would personally pull the starter and check everything. Make sure the positive and the negative on the starter is not loose or anything. replace back in, see if it continues. check the Continuity of the wire you moved and continue checking grounds and positives.

 

[AMPPRC]

so if it satys engaged then Im guessing it makes that grinding sound correct? I would personally pull the starter and check everything. Make sure the positive and the negative on the starter is not loose or anything. replace back in, see if it continues. check the Continuity of the wire you moved and continue checking grounds and positives.

There are no grinding sounds.

 

[AMPPRC]

could it be the computer

 

[crazyquik22023]

Well that would be a very odd problem. When a starter gets power the "teeth" , I cannot think of the correct name of it right now, of the starter move out and start to spin the flywheel. If your starter is somehow going out to spin the flywheel and then going back in and continue spinning I would say somehow your coolant temp sensor is getting crossed with the starter signal wire, or you need a new starter, but you said you tried a new starter so that's probably not the problem. Normally if the starter stays spinning it will make a grinding noise because it will be grinding against the flywheel trying to spin the flywheel when it is already spinning. Very odd problem. Are you sure what you are hearing is the starter spinning?

 

[AMPPRC]

Well that would be a very odd problem. When a starter gets power the "teeth" , I cannot think of the correct name of it right now, of the starter move out and start to spin the flywheel. If your starter is somehow going out to spin the flywheel and then going back in and continue spinning I would say somehow your coolant temp sensor is getting crossed with the starter signal wire, or you need a new starter, but you said you tried a new starter so that's probably not the problem. Normally if the starter stays spinning it will make a grinding noise because it will be grinding against the flywheel trying to spin the flywheel when it is already spinning. Very odd problem. Are you sure what you are hearing is the starter spinning?

Yes because when I turn off the car the starter is still engaged And running because it still turns over the motor for about five seconds.

 

[crazyquik22023]

Yes because when I turn off the car the starter is still engaged And running because it still turns over the motor for about five seconds.

Well the starter should not be running when the car is running. The starter should only be spinning when trying to crank the car. Once the car starts the starter should stop. If you starter is somehow running the whole time then your starter is somehow getting constant power when the ignition is on accessory. Make sure your coolant temp sensor wire isn't touching the starter signal wire somehow. (The little wire that goes on the starter, not the big power wire)

 

[AMPPRC]

Should the car still be able to start up even with the relay unplugged? Also I just figured out that I don't have to push in the clutch pedal to start it up. It wasn't like this before.

 

[delta448]

If the ignition switch is in "run" with the ECU getting power, the only thing needed to start the car is for the starter solenoid to get a voltage signal. Yours is getting one. And since it's still spinning the starter after shutdown, it's keeping the signal even with the ignition switch tuned off. The clutch switch, relay and ignition switch don't necessarily have to all be working together to supply power if it's coming from another source. Most likely the starter solenoid wire is getting that necessary voltage from the gauge cluster's coolant sensor wire that you moved.

 

[crazyquik22023]

The clutch switch shouldn't matter. If its just unplugged that is fine. All that will do is make it so you don't have to push the clutch in to start.

 

[AMPPRC]

When every the relay is hooked up and the car is running the relay makes a high pitch noise.

 

[Black-Out]

I know I'm new here to the forums but I'm not new at all to cars, so let me offer up my shot in the dark.....You've replaced all or most of the start related parts on your car (ignition switch, starter, ect) so that more than likely means you wouldn't be having an issue with them (although I have seen my fair share of failed new parts)

Your car is wanting to crank with the switch in the run position but before you get to the start position..... if your harness is shorted to battery plus across the trigger lead from the ignition switch (I've seen harnesses pinched from adjustable steering column) that may allow function or cause malfunction from the steering wheel being in one position or the other..... Try this pull the wiring free from the anchor points in the steering column and move them about then check to see if the symptom goes away....if you can make the issue come and go by moving the harness at the switch end then you know your close to the problem and it'll require you searching the harness for wire to wire contact in the column area....A DVOM and a test light will also go a pretty long ways in finding the issue along with a Chilton manual which should have a wiring schematic of the starting system to give you points where you can check where you should and shouldn't have power....

Hope this helps
William

 

[AMPPRC]

This morning I decided to try some things. I um hooked the ground/singal wire that runs from the starter to the wire harness. I turned the key to the on position the fuel pump kicks on and stays running with the engine not started. I can also hear a relay huming. So after that I hooked my other ecu up to the car to see if them problems would go away and they did not. I hooked the old one ecu back up and the plugged the ground/singal wire to the wireing harness. Then I went to start the car up again. The car started with the starter still running. So while the car was running I unhooked the ground/singal wire and the starter shut off. I got into the car the relay still humming decided to drive down the street and back. The relay stops humming every time I push in the clutch about 1/2 way and all the way down to the floor.

 

[Black-Out]

Given the circumstances of your cars unusual malfunction, I highly doubt this issue can be solved by swapping out parts till the symptom goes away..... It'll be a long expensive night if you go that route,trust me.

Did you try getting a wiring schematic,a DVOM, and test light, and diagnosing for continuity as suggested by others? It sucks to do it,I know but I'm quite sure if you checked the wiring from the switch to the starter you could find the issue fairly quickly....

Try this, remove the starter relay and check the trigger lead to the starter for B+ with the key in the off position, then the run position,then the start position....If you get your test light or DVOM to show current flow with the starter relay removed then you have a voltage leak between the relay and the starter (short to positive) if you don't get any responce from the test light or the DVOM when you try this (and you shouldn't) then the problem will be between the switch and the relay,which could also involve any security system components as well (factory or otherwise)... then all you must do is find where your voltage leaks are happening and repair them as you see fit.

Its a real P.I.T.A. but if you do it this way (which is the easiest way to do it with out inspecting the harness physically) then you should be able to locate which half of the circuit is suspect, and begain the manual inspection on the section which needs it and not the section that doesn't.

William

 

[AMPPRC]

Problem solved. Battery acid had leaked out on to part of the wiring harness ate up about 6 wires. cleaned up every thing and hook the wire back up to each other.