Spyder Alignment/Ride Height Issues (again...)

[97gst_spyder]

Ok, so I had multiple ride height issues with my old chassis (97 gst spyder) I had driver's side height issues.

I have swapped with a different chassis (96 gst spyder). No wrecks, or anything like that. With low miles (under 97k) all FL car.

I kept off the OLD chassis the springs/struts (Tokico Illiumina's with match Tokico Springs (AWD), engine, axles (Driver OEM Original and Passenger is GSP New). Keep that in mind.

Here's the issues.

Issue #1:

My car will always pull to the right, (I know about tq steer). After an alignment the car will drive straight as an arrow. But after getting on it once the car will pull pretty hard to the right, and the wheel will be off. I have aligned it myself with a caliper and strings, and with a hunter machine. Same issue.

This happened on BOTH chassis...

Now my buddies car is a 95gst with a 4g64/4g63 with a 20g. Way more tq than mine will have for awhile. He has the tq steer while on the gas, but off gas drives straight. This is way there's an issue.

I believe that maybe the driver axle has more friction in the inner CV due to a split boot, in turn causing the diff to favor the passanger side axle even more due to less friction needed to turn it. Is this possible? I'm installing a new axle tonight or Wednesday depending what happens.

Issue #2:

I had a leaning issue on the old car. This was due to frame damage from a previous wreck.

Now with the new chassis I have a driver's side lean again. But not nearly as bad as it was with the old chassis.

Could this be from having my ass in the drivers seat for about 2 hours a day since these Tokico's were new? It just settled on the drivers and the passenger side is just not 'settled'? I'm planning on getting 200lbs worth of concrete bags and putting them on the passenger seat to 'break in' the passenger side suspension. Does anyone think this is logical as I do?

Chassis Part Break Down:

97 GST Spyder:
Tokico Spring/Strut setup
Full Prothane Total Kit (every single bushing)
New Front and rear wheel bearings.
Driver Original OEM axle - Passenger NEW GSP axle.
Brand New Inner and Outer Tie-Rods.
Rear Camber kit (longer bolts and washers.)

96 GST Spyder (Current):
Same Tokico Setup
All OEM Bushings (None collapsed)
All OEM Wheel Bearings
Same axle setup
All OEM Tie-Rods.
No rear camber kit.

 

[4g63monstr]

I would be wary of your tokico's, they may need replaced. How long have you had them for? I am not sure if tokico offers a revaling option but you may want to lean towards a better suspension setup.

 

[97gst_spyder]

There about a year old. Only about 10k on them.

I changed out the driver axle last night. Car drives straight as an arrow....

So if your car still pulls after alignments, replace at least the axle on the opposite side that its pulling on.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Bringing this up from the dead.

I'm still having the same issue. I swapped some factory struts onto the car and it still leans...

Any new ideas?

 

[ACM]

Post the alignment numbers when you roll off the alignment rig. Do your full-throttle pull so the car is messed up and pulling badly. Go back to the alignment rig measure and post the new numbers. Something must have changed - if it's alignment-related, the new numbers will identify where the problem is. If the alignment didn't change, something else is going on.

Isolate the change.

 

[IHeartMyHonda]

Look at your lower control arm bushings and steering rack bushings. Those could definitely cause this problem.

x2 on what ACM said.