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1G Spun Rod Bearing - what needs replacing on rebuild?

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91Bomb

15+ Year Contributor
908
7
Jul 15, 2003
US, New Jersey
I spun a rod bearing and found quite a bit of metal flakes in oil pan even though bearing appears 99% intact. Oil looks clean so I'm not sure if metal flakes in pan are from car being 24 yrs old with 200k mi or from this bearing. Do the flakes in oil pan tell me everything I need to know on whether parts like oil pump need to be replaced now or should I cut open oil filter too and make a judgement afterwards?

Assuming what I found already in oil pan is a big enough concern, what should be replaced or cleaned thoroughly on a rebuild? I just seen a thread saying replace oil pump, oil cooler, + lines. How do i clean the turbo and cylinder head out? Can the oil pick-up tube be cleaned? What else needs to be done?
 
Your best bet is going to be to tear the motor down completely. Measure the clearances on the oil pump and inspecting the housings will determine if it (the oil pump) needs to be replaced or if it can be reused. Although, with those miles, I'd just replace it personally.

Next is the crank. If it's a good stock uncut crank, measuring the journals with a mic will tell you if it can be reused.

Any reputable machine shop can perform these steps for you.

Your honestly going to want / need a good service manual to really understand how the engine is assembled and it will give you some good idea's as to what to look for.

Clean of all the engine's hard parts can be done at a machine shop as well
 
Since oil pump has 213k mi I'm definitely thinking about replacing it. I have an oem pump from my N/T parts car with 120k mi but not sure if I should get it checked for spec and use if good or just buy brand new. Btw who's got a good price on new oem 7-bolt oil pumps? I'm seeing $360 minimum :cry:

My crankshaft appears toasted. Do I even consider getting a new ebay crank for $275
 
90laserRSfwd hit it on the head. Full teardown and measure/inspect. Make sure you thoroughly clean the oil passages, even if you have the block cleaned at a shop.

If your crank is shot, try to find another oem crank or go eagle. Better yet, contact miller import parts on here (stangmurdera) and see if he can source you one.

If your spare pump is good and specs put fine, I say use it. Are you a 1g 7 bolt or 2g? Now might be a good time to try sourcing a 6 bolt motor.
 
Doing a stock rebuild since I'm free/cheap modding @ 15 lbs boost and always be 20 lbs or less plus on a tight budget.

Appears I might be able to get a stock used crankshaft. I don't want 2g pistons becasue worried about knock counts and maybe my 24 yr old pistons are ok. Probably get NPR rings but need advice there.

I have new ACL alluglide rod bearings but not sure if I'm better off getting oem mitsu rod + main bearings. Are you supposed to use same rod + main bearings or is it alright to mix them?

Should I toss out my oil cooler becasue I found metal in oil pan? Someone said to rinse or clean turbo real good, exactly what should be done?

Engine compression was good and car didn't smoke so I'm assuming my cylinder head is decent. Other then new valve stem + cam seals and cleaning, what should I have machine shop do with it? Keep in mind I'm on a budget, how much should I be expecting to pay to get cylinder head reconditioned when bringing my own parts?

For short block, if I bring all my own parts to the shop what would be a ball park figure for checking , hot tanking, crank polishing etc with having them assemble crank, pistons, + front case w/ balance shafts? Do they check their own work with plastigauge or am I expected to do that when I get home?
 
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^ Anybody? This is my 1st rebuild and need some help :)

On subject of metal shavings from spun bearing being anywhere in motor now:

I'd be using my spare cylinder head from N/T motor. Are oil squirters an issue?

I'd also be using another oil pump + front case, buying new oil cooler w/lines + oil filter housing which, correct me if I'm wrong, are recommended when spinning a bearing?

Are new turbo oil feed + return lines needed? Can metal shavings get inside the CAS? How concerned do I have to be about turbo because doubt I'm up for dissembling it myself and cleaning but is that something an engine builder could do for cheap? Would it need re-balancing? I would get a new oil pick-up tube too. Is there ANYTHING I'm overlooking concerning metal shaving problems?
 
How much would an engine builder charge to dissasemble + clean my stock turbo? It has no shaft play and always boosted fine but worried about possible metal shavings now.
 
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