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Southbend clutch

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Good. Now make sure you have your flywheel stepped properly before you install it. Or you'll have engagement problem, which will require you to do it all over again.

0.612" step height all the way across the friction surface. <--I thank Tim Z. for drilling that info into my head.:tease:

what exactly is having your flywheel stepped? i mentioned it to my tranny guy, hes knowledgeable...done a lot of work on my trucks in the past but i think ive made him partake in a new adventure here and he wasnt familiar with the term steppng the flywheel, he says he has them sent in but hes never heard of stepping, is this flywheel recessed??
 
what exactly is having your flywheel stepped? i mentioned it to my tranny guy, hes knowledgeable...done a lot of work on my trucks in the past but i think ive made him partake in a new adventure here and he wasnt familiar with the term steppng the flywheel, he says he has them sent in but hes never heard of stepping, is this flywheel recessed??

Zero here (pic1)
Measure distance to here (pic2)
 

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Zero here.

And measure distance to here.

Be sure to measure step height across the entire friction surface to ensure you aren't dealing with a warped or uneven surface finish. You want 0.610"-0.612" step height. Have it as flat as possible when using Kevlar materials.

If using with a full kevlar disk, use an aluminum oxide blast media after resurfacing the flywheel to increase surface porosity so the clutch disk breaks in faster and properly beds the kevlar material. If you are using a dual friction clutch disk (kevlar/feramic or kevlar/ceramic) you do not need to media blast the flywheel. If you choose to not media blast the flywheel simply allow significantly more break in time and be sure to take it easy on launches or back to back launches at the track. Otherwise you are more succeptable to glazing the disk and clutch slippage.
 
thanks twicks, im not going to have it media b;lasted, as much as id like too, but time is not on my side...whats the break in time on these? 600 miles? not that i really rod on them anyways...and what does break in consist of? driving like a sissy, or just not launching it off every stop light LOL, i mean i general dont rod on it anyways, but id like to know the limitations
 
You don't have to drive like a sissy, but I would definitely lay off the launches, and not be driving around like an asshat either.

If you do city mileage (lots of shifting), it will break in faster than all highway mileage. Expect a couple tanks of gas for it to be all happy. you may notice a change in pedal feel or clutch disengagement throw which may require another clutch pedal adjustment when it breaks in (you will likely need a pedal adjustment when the clutch is installed as well).
 
well how about this, the day after everything is put together im going to missouri...about a 1400 round trip, is that safe?
 
Clutch break in really has nothing to do with how many miles you drive. Its all about how many times you use the clutch. You want to get the friction surface to "bed" properly. So you could drive your car 10000 miles and only use the clutch 10 times, and it wouldn't be broken in. But you could drive the car 100 miles and use the clutch 500 times, and you'd probably be kosher See what we are getting at?

Again. just don't drive your car like it's a $5 hooker while running errands and what not. And of course, no launching or slipping the shit out of the clutch. Also, don't slam threw the gears. Shift nicely, and let the clutch out gently between shifts.
 
Clutch break in really has nothing to do with how many miles you drive. Its all about how many times you use the clutch. You want to get the friction surface to "bed" properly. So you could drive your car 10000 miles and only use the clutch 10 times, and it wouldn't be broken in. But you could drive the car 100 miles and use the clutch 500 times, and you'd probably be kosher See what we are getting at?

Again. just don't drive your car like it's a $5 hooker while running errands and what not. And of course, no launching or slipping the shit out of the clutch. Also, don't slam threw the gears. Shift nicely, and let the clutch out gently between shifts.

This is exactly what I told him via PM.

Don't drive like a dumbass, don't do heavy launches. Drive normal, shift regularly, and it will break in just fine.

Simply make sure your flywheel has the proper step height with the friction surface perfectly flat. Torque the pressure plate bolts to 22-24 ft/lbs; flywheel bolts to 100 ft/lbs with red Loctite threadlocker, and install the clutch disk in the proper orientation. Torque pressure flywheel bolts and plate bolts evenly in star pattern after it is all centered so it is properly seated on the flywheel. Lube up the TOB, TOB sleeve, clutch fork pivot ball pocket, and fork tabs where the TOB sits against it.
 
This is exactly what I told him via PM.

Don't drive like a dumbass, don't do heavy launches. Drive normal, shift regularly, and it will break in just fine.

Simply make sure your flywheel has the proper step height with the friction surface perfectly flat. Torque the pressure plate bolts to 22-24 ft/lbs; flywheel bolts to 100 ft/lbs with red Loctite threadlocker, and install the clutch disk in the proper orientation. Torque pressure flywheel bolts and plate bolts evenly in star pattern after it is all centered so it is properly seated on the flywheel. Lube up the TOB, TOB sleeve, clutch fork pivot ball pocket, and fork tabs where the TOB sits against it.

just checked my pm's never recieved THAT pm although i did see ## post on here, i just wasnt sure it would be okay to run it for such a long haul right after installation.

Thanks for the replys
 
Sorry, must have sent the same reply to someone else asking via PM. Yeah, the long drive isn't an issue.
 
This is exactly what I told him via PM.

Don't drive like a dumbass, don't do heavy launches. Drive normal, shift regularly, and it will break in just fine.

Simply make sure your flywheel has the proper step height with the friction surface perfectly flat. Torque the pressure plate bolts to 22-24 ft/lbs; flywheel bolts to 100 ft/lbs with red Loctite threadlocker, and install the clutch disk in the proper orientation. Torque pressure flywheel bolts and plate bolts evenly in star pattern after it is all centered so it is properly seated on the flywheel. Lube up the TOB, TOB sleeve, clutch fork pivot ball pocket, and fork tabs where the TOB sits against it.
Wondering if it's necessary to order new flywheel and pressure plate bolts and the rubber dust boot for the fork? 72k miles let me know tim i will order them from you right now! Thanks.

Clutch kit arrived along with the nice forged TOB fork.I'm hyped!:thumb: Thanks Tim and wow fast shipping great job!!;)
 
Personally, if you don't know when they were replaced last, I would replace them.
 
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