Small amount of boost

[blueman803]

I only get 3-4 psi of boost and it holds that number, what could it be? 14B turbo and stock wastegate. Should be around 10 psi right?

 

[ddavisaf]

Umm... keep it where it is What supporting mods have you done to your N/T to handle high boost? 14b stock wastegate is set at 11 I believe.

 

[blueman803]

Rebuilt with 2nd gen pistons 1st gen rods, 255 fuel pump and 440 injectors. I am just getting in to it
I don't have a lot of experience with turbo cars and I am pretty sure it is the BCS being wired wrong or something. If the wastegate is set to 11 lbs, can I not run a vacuum line straight from the intake manifold to the wastegate? If this doesn't work does it mean my wastegate is stuck open?

 

[oldman]

1. Check for exhaust leaks before o2 housing. Nothing go to 2.

2. Make sure the actuator arm is connected to the wastegate lever. Connected, go to 3.

3. Remove the arm and make sure the flapper is completely shut with the arm attached. Checks out, re-attach the arm and go to 4.

4. Test run with the bcs bypassed. If problem solved, keep the bcs bypassed and get a mbc. If problem persists, go to 5.

5. Test run with the actuator bypassed. (actuator nipple open) THIS WILL RESULT IN ALL OUT BOOST SO WATCH THE BOOST GAUGE AND FEATHER THE THROTTLE. If in fact you get all out boost, the actuator is opening prematurely. If problem persists go to 6.

6. Perform a complete boost leak test and fix all leaks. if problem persists go to 7.

7. Check the turbo for shaft play and licp and ic for excessive oil, most likely your turbo is about to take a dump.

I have given you a clear path to troubleshoot your problem and I'm sure you'll have follow up questions. Do yourself a favor and do some search on your own before you ask them. If you still need to ask after you search, I'll be here to answer them. Have fun reading.

 

[blueman803]

Thanks, going to buy the parts to test for a boost leak tomorrow. That seems to be the most reasonable, because the turbo worked fine before the rebuild, there are no exhaust leaks before the turbo, and the fact that the car hits 3 psi only... I will check the wastegate arm too, but I have a feeling its a boost leak due to a whistling sound when I rev it.

 

[oldman]

Perfect, then do 1,2 and 3 first, boost leak test, then go to 4. I was going to put boost leak test at #4 so you don't accidentally over spin the turbo but most people are too lazy to do leak test first. I must say though, you probably have leaks but 3-4psi means a huge leak. I have a feeling there's probably something else in play here. Hopefully it's either the arm being too long or it's off.

 

[blueman803]

I did the boost leak test. It was definitely a massive leak all over. I don't know where to look to keep going. The upper intercooler pipe had so much grease and was pitted that I had to file the intercooler down to get it to seal half decently. It still doesn't hold too great. I'm working on it, but I got the pressure up to 7 psi, when I originally had no pressure whatsoever. So hopefully I can get it all figured out and up to 15 to 20 psi. Any sealant that you can use in the intercooler piping? Like RTV or something? I know that charge pipe gets really hot, and not sure what could be put in there to help seal.

 

[oldman]

I did the boost leak test. It was definitely a massive leak all over. I don't know where to look to keep going. The upper intercooler pipe had so much grease and was pitted that I had to file the intercooler down to get it to seal half decently. It still doesn't hold too great. I'm working on it, but I got the pressure up to 7 psi, when I originally had no pressure whatsoever. So hopefully I can get it all figured out and up to 15 to 20 psi. Any sealant that you can use in the intercooler piping? Like RTV or something? I know that charge pipe gets really hot, and not sure what could be put in there to help seal.

Any RTV should be able to withstand the heat at ic/uicp, I also suggest disabling the mbc or turn it all the way up to prevent loosing air there. Open the oil cap and listen for leaks in the crank case.

After looking over your mod list, I have some questions for you.

1. Do you mean 450cc instead of 440cc.

2. What ECU are you using?

3. You must be running pig rich with all these leaks and the fact that you don't have an afpr for the 255, are you hitting fuel cut at all?

 

[VBGSX]

I did the boost leak test. It was definitely a massive leak all over. I don't know where to look to keep going. The upper intercooler pipe had so much grease and was pitted that I had to file the intercooler down to get it to seal half decently. It still doesn't hold too great. I'm working on it, but I got the pressure up to 7 psi, when I originally had no pressure whatsoever. So hopefully I can get it all figured out and up to 15 to 20 psi. Any sealant that you can use in the intercooler piping? Like RTV or something? I know that charge pipe gets really hot, and not sure what could be put in there to help seal.

Glad that you're figuring this out.
I myself can't picture what you're talking about. Do you have any pic.s? If so we may be able to come up with a better temporary solution.

I say temporary because it's best to fix it right.
Hence buying new IC pipes or making new ones. If the pipes are falling apart that bad, replace them. The last thing you want is for the piping to detereorate into the intake and pulled into the engine.

Good luck


***edit***
If you're just talking about small pitted areas(didn't make it through the pipe yet), here's a solution for you.
1. Buy some JB weld
2. Take your pipes off and thoroughly sand/clean all pitted areas down to bare metal.
3. Take some alcohol and wipe off the metal(gets rid of grease from fingers and paint dust).
4. Mix your JB weld and smooth it out over the pits. If you do it properly, you will end up with a smooth pipe all the way around.
5. Let it dry per directions.
6. If its all smooth, go to 7. If not, sand the JB weld area smooth so you'll get a good seal.
7. Repaint the pipe covering all area's where exposed metal can be seen(let it dry).
8. Put it back together

This should get you up and running for a while. Just make sure that if the edges of the pipe are sharp and pitted that you get rid of all that. You don't want the pipe to cut into your couplers as they flex.

 

[blueman803]

1) Yes, they are turbo injectors, I'm just a moron
2) Turbo ECU out of 1990's model, with the 90 throttle body and all that junk
3) I don't have an afpr, I bought this car from supergoat, he had done the conversion part already, with the ecu and wiring. I took the block and rebuilt a turbo block and put in the car. So it is essentially a rebuilt turbo motor to answer any more questions about what is in the engine bay.

I just took it out for a spin, and still only hit 3-4 psi. My air compressor got the system up to 7 psi in a matter of 10 seconds or so. I no longer think it was the boost leaks that were causing the problem. So I am going to take the turbo off and make sure it is not the wastegate. Should have done that first, but it was less work to do the boost leak test and I know there were a few anyway to fix.

An afpr is on my list of things to buy next.

 

[oldman]

Just two things,

1. You must continue the leak test and complete it, you don't really have an option there, 7psi is no where nearly good enough.

2. Nothing that I have suggested would require you to remove the turbo, go back and review what I wrote in my original post and ask questions if you don't understand.

 

[blueman803]

Right after I made that post, I went out and looked at the wastegate. The arm is definitely bottomed out and closed when there is no air applied. When I hooked up the air compressor to the vacuum line and slowly turned up the pressure, the wastegate arm moved, opened the wastegate, and then went right back to where it was. Seems normal right?

What is wierd about the boost leak test, is I charge it up to 7 psi, and then it holds for roughly 10 seconds before it drains out. If I had such a bad leak that I could only get it up to 7 shouldnt it drain pretty much immediately?

 

[oldman]

Right after I made that post, I went out and looked at the wastegate. The arm is definitely bottomed out and closed when there is no air applied. When I hooked up the air compressor to the vacuum line and slowly turned up the pressure, the wastegate arm moved, opened the wastegate, and then went right back to where it was. Seems normal right?

sounds normal but did you remove the arm just to make sure what you think "bottomed out" is truely bottomed out, kinda hard to tell with the arm attached.

What is wierd about the boost leak test, is I charge it up to 7 psi, and then it holds for roughly 10 seconds before it drains out. If I had such a bad leak that I could only get it up to 7 shouldnt it drain pretty much immediately?

Not necessarily, some leaks don't reveal themselves until higher pressure level is reached. Until you're able to maintain 20psi for at least 30 sec, you're not done with the leak test. Stop looking for excuses not to do the leak test and get to it already.

 

[blueman803]

Yea, I removed the arm, and I couldnt turn the little knob it was on with my hand any further back, so I am assuming thats what you meant to do?

It's tough to find all these leaks now I see why everyone doesn't like to do it....

Thanks for the help

 

[oldman]

It's tough to find all these leaks now I see why everyone doesn't like to do it....

Be patient with it, it's only tough because it's the first time.

 

[marcmsj]

do you have a metal uicp? if not, i would recommend getting one of those. you did say most of your leaks are coming from the uicp correct?

 

[blueman803]

I disconnected the uicp from the elbow and hooked the tester straight up to the elbow. I got up to 11.5 psi, then the tube blew off the egr valve and I lost all pressure I blocked it off and found out I am also leaking at the throttle body. I believe the fiav, what kind of work is it to replace that?

 

[oldman]

I disconnected the uicp from the elbow and hooked the tester straight up to the elbow. I got up to 11.5 psi, then the tube blew off the egr valve and I lost all pressure I blocked it off and found out I am also leaking at the throttle body. I believe the fiav, what kind of work is it to replace that?

Settle down and take it one leak at a time.

1. How did you block off the egr?

2. How is your pcv routed?

3. Open the oil cap and see if you hear anything during the test.

4. FIAV should only leak after engine gets warm. The leak you're describing is probably either the shaft seals, BISS o-ring or vacuum lines around the TB.

 

[blueman803]

The egr valve nipple let the vacuum line fly off, so I grabbed the vacuum line and plugged it with my thumb since I didn't want to hastle with securing it at that point. I felt air coming from around the back to bottom of the throttle body. I guess saying I blocked it off wasn't the best way to phrase that...

PCV valve is routed down to the ground with some hose, not back into the intake. I will try again tomorrow, but at least I have made some progress. I now can get up to 11.5 psi, so maybe I can have this thing boosting like it should soon.

 

[blueman803]

w00t 20 psi on the inake manifold. Now I am working on the intercooler piping and have run into a bit of a problem. The bov is leaking out under boost, how do you fix that?

 

[SGTalon]

Depends on what BOV it is. If it is a 2G you replace it, 1G you can 'crush' it (I've never done this), or buy an aftermarket one. If you already have an aftermarket one, my type-s has a screw on the top to tighten it and prevent leaking. I'm pretty sure all the other ones have something similar.

 

[oldman]

w00t 20 psi on the inake manifold. Now I am working on the intercooler piping and have run into a bit of a problem. The bov is leaking out under boost, how do you fix that?

Use a D size battery and some how plug it up for the pressure test. Are you venting the bov? Which bov? Is it leaking out of the return tube or the flange?

 

[blueman803]

Well, thanks to your help I now have the car successfully boosting up to 11 psi well below 3000, . The throttlebody shaft seals still leak, have to find somewhere to get them. The bov was not hooked up to the intake manifold correctly, and I think due to this it was allowing all the pressure out. But its all good now and tracked down to one leak.

 

[oldman]

Good deal, you're welcome.