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Should the trans spin by hand?

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5150DSM

Supporting VIP
856
3
Jan 5, 2004
Sacramento, California
I put my transmission back together and everything fit as it should, every part went in it's place according to the ATSG manual. I really only have one question... Should I be able to spin the transmission by hand, either via the input or output shaft(s) in nuetral? Because right now I can't and I have no idea whether I should be able to or not. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Would the center bearing support not being installed deep enough prevent the center dif from meshing with the idler gear, possibly leading to gear bind, which is why I'm not able to turn the transmission?
 
Take the clutch disk and put it on the input shaft and try to spin it with that. You should be able to turn the gears whether its in neutral or not. If you have to much preload on the bearings causing it not to turn. If it turns with the disk on the input shaft but you can't turn it with out it, that's probably your case. I don't know what you did to the tranny when you took it apart but if you changed the bearings then it needs to be shimed properly to the new bearings, they are not all 100% the same.
 
Take the clutch disk and put it on the input shaft and try to spin it with that. You should be able to turn the gears whether its in neutral or not. If you have to much preload on the bearings causing it not to turn. If it turns with the disk on the input shaft but you can't turn it with out it, that's probably your case. I don't know what you did to the tranny when you took it apart but if you changed the bearings then it needs to be shimed properly to the new bearings, they are not all 100% the same.

Thanks for the response. This is actually an auto trans, so no clutch disk. As far as what I did... I replaced the front clutch pack, the end clutches, removed the viscous coupler and had the center dif welded. From there I just re-assembled it per the ATSG manual.
 
My bad :) I didn't check. I'm not sure on the auto trannys, I haven't messed with enough of them to know that. I'm sure there are people in here that will be able to tell you this. Hopefully some of the auto experts chime in.
 
After completely rebuilding a FWD auto I could just barely turn the shaft where the TC goes. It was tight and could not do it much without saying "OW".
 
I just finished rebuilding my AWD Auto a few days ago. I couldn't turn it by the shaft, but I could be using the end clutch assembly before I put the cover on. Its hard to get leverage just using the shaft. As far as turning the FWD by hand, it stands to reason the AWD would be even harder, as it has the center differential and rear output shaft causing extra resistance.
 
I just finished rebuilding my AWD Auto a few days ago. I couldn't turn it by the shaft, but I could be using the end clutch assembly before I put the cover on. Its hard to get leverage just using the shaft. As far as turning the FWD by hand, it stands to reason the AWD would be even harder, as it has the center differential and rear output shaft causing extra resistance.

Appreciate the info. I'll pull the cover back off and see if I can spin by the end-clutch assy.
 
On my manual trans before I welded the center diff it was easier to move it with my hands after the welded diff went in, it got way harder I don't know if that would be your case
 
Pulled the end-clutch cover and I was unable to turn the trans via the end-clutch assembly. I removed the idler gear and the transfer shaft/center dif stack spins freely. I am not able to rotate the input shaft with or without the idler gear installed with the trans in neutral. I re-checked the seating depth on the center bearing support and it is right on, the center dif meshes perfectly with the idler gear so that's not the issue. So back to a modified version of the original question... Should I be able to turn the input shaft by hand with everything installed?

I'm right on the verge of dropping everything into the car and firing it up but I really would like to know before I do something stupid. Thanks again for any and all responses.
 
Any chance you adjusted tht band incorrectly? Did you torque and back it off a few times and then torque to correct spec? I think it is 3.6lbs. I apologize for the last post. I put the idler in last and I was not able to turn it after that. (I was waiting for a new lockwasher plate from MHI).
If you did everything by the book and have all the tiny check balls and Orings where they are supposed to be, don't sweat it. I used the same manual. I thought it was pretty decent.
I would give IPT a call if you are really stressed about it. John really helped me out with the parts I bought from them and he wasn't afraid to spend some time to talk with me. You might even find the answer on their forums.
 
I'm fairly certain the band is right, I did just what you described. However, I'm not able to turn the input shaft with or without the idler installed. I did do everything exactly as the manual states but being that this is my first DSM auto rebuild, I'm nervous as hell. One fock-up and it's 3K down the toilet becuse if it blows up I'm not touching it again, it will go straight out to Metro and I'll have them do it. Unfortunately, I don't have another 3K at the moment but that's my problem. Thanks njclimber for your input, it helps that you have at least done this before.
 
I buttoned everything up. I don't know for sure that it's right but I feel better after talking to a few people and getting a bit of input here. I guess we will see shortly. Thanks again for the responses, cross your fingers for me guys... At least I know the motor will be golden.
 
How did this work out for you? From my last experience, I COULD turn the output shaft of the trans easily forward and with some resistance in reverse.
 
How did this work out for you? From my last experience, I COULD turn the output shaft of the trans easily forward and with some resistance in reverse.

Well, once the motor and trans were together I was able to turn everything freely via the crank. And the car cranks over with the ignition so I think I am ok there. I still don't know if/how well the trans works since my ECU decided to cook itself. I'll have more info next week when I get the rebuilt ECU back.
 
im curious how this turned out. and what manual did you guys follow for this re-build?. i am about to begin the teardown of my auto awd. i have no idea what failed and its been out of the car on the garage floor for months so im finally ready to just take it apart. no one i have spoken to has heard of a trans failing with no forward or reverse.
 
I ran across this while building my transmission. I found that either my rear or front clutch discs were not fully seated.

You need to assemble the kickdown drum, front clutch, rear clutch at the same time then slide it into the trans. This ensures that both sets of clutch discs are on correctly.

That front clutch retainer should sit down inside the drum and not stick out any.
 
Just about ant trans in the world needs to turn by hand at the input shaft and turn (at least with pliers) in both directions at the output shaft (one direction typically should have more resistance than the other)

-John
 
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